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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

BeSteady FOUR Thread

"BE" please.

Good luck and thanks for the update.
 
Friendly moderator update here.

Just reminding you that none do not understand the situation.
Reduser is open as a place to find solutions.

I applaude BeSteadys openness (and expect them to become sponsors if they manage to get through this)

:)


G
 
As I said in my previous post, I figured this would happen.

It's logical and, if it gets us fully functioning units and our accessory packs etc, and (importantly) allows BS4 to continue, it's the right move all round.

But, I'd have hoped to have been made aware of the delivery to dealers long before something is posted here. I'd suggest a mailing list or email - with all the RU Group buyerson it. Then, when something major or significant (like this) happens, we all have the info quickly. The BS4 forum isn't much use in this respect, I (for one) would prefer emails alongside info and discussions here.

Anyway, keep us updated!

Hopefully, shipping out units to dealers will get the revenue stream going again and we can look forward to getting the Beast in our hands soon :)
 
Ryan Sauve said:
Hmmm, has the manual been updated Peter and if so, could we get the latest copy?
Click to expand...

Hello Ryan,

you can download manual from here:
http://www.besteady.eu/download/BS_Four_Manual_v1_2.pdf

It will be updated when there will be some additional features or we will have to add some explanation to specific sections.

If you will have questions please ask and we will try to answer or add that information in the manual.


Best
Peter
 
Hello,

we have managed to solve the overheating issue we have encountered while powering RED camera and FOUR gimbal from one large battery at the same time. We are installing additional radiator inside the vertical arm that is helping in heat dissipating. We have performed high temperature environment tests (+30 degrees Celsius and beyond) and right now units are performing live trails - but most of them are complete and it gives us certainty that the problem is solved.

There is one very important thing to remember - it needs to be respected in order to ensure the unit will work properly and without damage. In high temperature (28*C/ 82*F) the unit can work constantly for 60 minutes, after that it needs to be turned off to cool off - it takes around 10-15 minutes depending on the environment temperature. There is an implemented safety feature that will turn off the motors before overheating - but operator attention is advised. This time may become shorter in extreme conditions - high humidity, even higher temperature - so please keep that in mind while planing your shoots in such environments.

This problem is not existent when separate power sources are in use - one for the FOUR and other for the camera / accessories. The heating has to be taken into consideration only when the power load on the FOUR is close to its maximum load of 5A. The safe operating times are longer, when the load is lower.

All units will be equipped with the radiators - but we need to cut them and then install them inside vertical arm. It requires very careful work as all this needs to fit perfectly along with the electronics boards and the cabling inside.


Best
Peter
 
constantine Tirintzis said:
Hello Peter. Reading your post I believe that you have to find a solution to 40+ C . A lot of people like my self are working in environments under the sun, and in the summer temperatures here can go up to 38 C, and considering that the equipment is black , imagine what happens when you operate 5 minutes in the sun.

I had worked with cameras like Alexa , Epic and various Sonys and they both worked fine on those temperatures. So what happens if you are limited in 30c and thats the Max C you can go for just 60 min? basically it says to me that I either have no choice but to run external power ( please verify the case in what happens in that case and limits) or Iam only to work in certain temperatures which can not be predictable nor acceptable in many cases.

Please verify why didnt you go with drivers that can take more abuse?

thanks
Click to expand...

Hello Constantine,

Please read my post again.

The time is 60 minutes - it's 1 hour so its 3600 seconds not 60.

It will work in very high temperatures, but the time will be limited in such conditions. And we are talking about working non stop for entire one hour with fully loaded RED powered by one large battery that will power FOUR unit at the same time - and possibly some additional accessories. I don't think that you will be taking 45-60 minutes shots using gimbals without even short break for operator or actors to rest.

And again, you will have to give the device some time to cool - it is about 10-15 minutes and you can start again for another 1h / 60min / 3600sec.

Best
Peter
 
Agreed. I have shot in Temps in the 40 to 50C range tons. Will it even work at all with a separate battery powering the camera in these temps?
How about super cold temps?
Thanks
Mike
 
Mike McEntire said:
Agreed. I have shot in Temps in the 40 to 50C range tons. Will it even work at all with a separate battery powering the camera in these temps?
How about super cold temps?
Thanks
Mike
Click to expand...

BS team, we need more infos about that, professional equipment should be able to endure extreme conditions.
With my clients, not being able to operate as they need in extreme cold or heat would be a deal breaker...
 
Peter said it clearly. B4 + Dragon + FIZ + vid TX = 5A ceiling = runs hottest and needs monitorng. Running accessories or camera from other power source won't run as man Amps and won't heat as quickly.

While certainly not exciting news it could be worse. Does b4 display show op temp?
 
I personally think that powering RED off of separate batteries in such extremes is doable and ok. I too work in temperatures ranging from -40 Celsius to +40 but I've learned that there are always work arounds needed to either keep the gear warm, without condensation or to keep it cool. Just a part of the job. If it means having to run a mini V-lock to power the Epic, I don't think it's such a big deal.

Judging from Peter's post, it's only in the extremes of wanting to run everything off of that one power source that temperature will become an issue. If it proves to be otherwise, then it's a different story, but for now I applaud Besteady for having solved the problem and getting back in the game on building these beauties and getting them out to us so that we can create compelling stories and beautiful, captivating images.

keep at it team! Can't wait to one day have ours.
 
Constantine,

I think you are confusing everyone a bit and missing the whole concept since you did not look into the Manual where the powering options are described.

The gimbal can be powered from double small internal batteries OR one large external battery. Depending on the power source chosen you can stress the unit AND additional equipment up to 3 AMPS with small BeSteady LiIon batteries and 5 AMPS with large BeSteady LiPo battery. The gimbal itself takes only a very small portion of the allowed amperage.

It is clearly stated, that the unit gets hot and a cooldown is recommended after approximately an hour ONLY when there is ADDITIONAL equipment of amperage close to the maximum power load of 5 AMPS powered straight from the gimbal when a LARGE battery is used. No other gimbal as of today allows you to power 5 AMPS of equipment directly from it. Going further, IF your power load is less than 5 AMPS OR you are using small batteries with 3 AMPS max OR you just run the gimbal only from ANY kind of battery, the heating problem is pretty much non-existent or builds up over much longer time (the unit will obviously produce some heat always as every other electronic equipment known to man, be it a Movi, a Ronin or your notebook) and you CAN film in direct sun with temperatures of 40 Celsius and beyond. The electronics are designed to work safely up to even 70-80 Celsius but it is obviously not recommended to stress them that way for longer periods of time. Same goes for laptops, tablets and your RED cameras. We were not able to fit a cooling fan there as it is done in RED cameras and had to stay with passive cooling. Our problem came up because we observed the electronics to go beyond 90 Celsius on 5 AMPS of power payload after around an hour and it is definitely not safe for any type of microboards, not even PC processors. That is why we had to upgrade the passive cooling which pretty much solved the problem and the unit does not reach 90 Celsius on maximum power stress anymore.

As for the extreme cold temperatures - same rules apply as for any other camera equipment powered from a battery. Operating in freezing conditions lowers your battery life and in case of a gimbal can affect the magnetic motors performance but it still should be safe to operate during any winter and only take more precautions in arctic environment, where pretty much every advanced equipment needs more care.

I hope the above clears your concerns.
 
Piotr Chmielewski said:
Constantine,

I think you are confusing everyone a bit and missing the whole concept since you did not look into the Manual where the powering options are described.

The gimbal can be powered from double small internal batteries OR one large external battery. Depending on the power source chosen you can stress the unit AND additional equipment up to 3 AMPS with small BeSteady LiIon batteries and 5 AMPS with large BeSteady LiPo battery. The gimbal itself takes only a very small portion of the allowed amperage.

It is clearly stated, that the unit gets hot and a cooldown is recommended after approximately an hour ONLY when there is ADDITIONAL equipment of amperage close to the maximum power load of 5 AMPS powered straight from the gimbal when a LARGE battery is used. No other gimbal as of today allows you to power 5 AMPS of equipment directly from it. Going further, IF your power load is less than 5 AMPS OR you are using small batteries with 3 AMPS max OR you just run the gimbal only from ANY kind of battery, the heating problem is pretty much non-existent or builds up over much longer time (the unit will obviously produce some heat always as every other electronic equipment known to man, be it a Movi, a Ronin or your notebook) and you CAN film in direct sun with temperatures of 40 Celsius and beyond. The electronics are designed to work safely up to even 70-80 Celsius but it is obviously not recommended to stress them that way for longer periods of time. Same goes for laptops, tablets and your RED cameras. We were not able to fit a cooling fan there as it is done in RED cameras and had to stay with passive cooling. Our problem came up because we observed the electronics to go beyond 90 Celsius on 5 AMPS of power payload after around an hour and it is definitely not safe for any type of microboards, not even PC processors. That is why we had to upgrade the passive cooling which pretty much solved the problem and the unit does not reach 90 Celsius on maximum power stress anymore.

As for the extreme cold temperatures - same rules apply as for any other camera equipment powered from a battery. Operating in freezing conditions lowers your battery life and in case of a gimbal can affect the magnetic motors performance but it still should be safe to operate during any winter and only take more precautions in arctic environment, where pretty much every advanced equipment needs more care.

I hope the above clears your concerns.
Click to expand...

Piotr I am going to pretend that I didnt hear your comment about confusing People. My questions are very clear.You should have come up with your statement above from the start in the first place. Good luck with your voyage what ever that is, and all the best for the New year.

regards
 
To avoid mounting a V-lock battery on the camera (adding weight on the shelf) or on the handle ( adding a disruptive cable between the handle and the shelf), can the solution be the implementation of a double circuit with the small batteries powering the gimbal and the big one or a V-mount battery on the handle or belt mounted for the camera and accessories?
 
To keep everything in perspective, how does this "issue" compare with other gimbals currently on the market?

How many, self contained (no external power), can run drawing 5 amps internally for an hour before overheating?

Let's go for full disclosure - Has anyone tested this? Has any other manufacturer released this data?


I will note that I have read many references to external solutions - on belts, V-Lock or AB mounted behind or on the side - and a lot of talk about flexible power cables needed to make theirs work…


Looking for others to share their experiences.
 
I use Endura 7s and Freefly Carbon V-Mount adapter on the Ronin for quite a bit now and I'm happy with the result.
I guess it will be my solution for the BeSteady 4 too...
 
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