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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

BEST DJI Ronin Configurations with pictures

Jeremy Wiles

Jeremy Wiles

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It seems everyone has their own way of configuring a Ronin. I'm exploring different ways to mount Red bricks, monitor and FF. I'd like to put together a system that's as light weight as possible.

If you've already worked to figure out a great configuration, I'd love to see some pictures along with a list of parts. I think this thread would help quite a few folks in the future who are in the same predicament. There doesn't seem to be one source online that shows you the different options for configuring a Ronin.

Thanks for the help. Pictures please.
 
Unfortunately I don't have any pictures, so I'll try to be as thorough as possible.

Generally camera houses or ACs will tell you the only way to mount an Epic (Dragon or Mysterium) on a ronin is by using redvolts in a side handle, but personally, I hate redvolts. They don't give very much juice and the side handle is an unnecessary bit of clutter on the side of the brain. What you should do is use a battery belt clip, with Red Bricks, on the belt of the camera operator. This shouldn't affect the balance of the gimbal, and will allow you to keep your camera powered for much much longer. There are ways to mount a red brick onto the body of the camera (I've seen people use side mounting v mounts on the side of the brain) or onto the top cross bar (using something similar to a battery belt clip), but after many shoots with the ronin, I find a belt clip is the simplest and quickest solution and it takes a lot of weight off the rig itself.

You should mount your LCD or monitor to the cross bar using the mounts that come with the ronin. Run a longer EVF cable from the brain to the monitor. This shouldn't affect balance.

Follow focuses vary so much in terms of weight and configuration, it's hard to say what is ideal because in many situations, what you have is what you have. Using something extremely bulky like an older bartech will cause your package to become extremely front heavy (especially when using a heavy lens), so I'd recommend something light like an RT motion or Redrock rig, if you have the option. Ronin's come with light weight mounting rods and step rings for the rods so you can mount any kind of follow focus. I'd recommend using a DSMC Tactical Top plate or something similar so you can zip tie any receivers or whatnot as far back on the body as possible, as far as the cables will allow, but again, this depends on what equipment is available to you.

If you have an AC who can pull focus for you, use a paralinx arrow or something similar to get signal to any directors or AC monitors. If you are one-man-banding it, mount your follow focus remote so its on the far end of the top bar, so you can spin the dial with two fingers while still holding onto the handle. I highly highly highly recommend you don't do this and have someone pull focus for you.

Also an easy rig is your best friend. Don't allow it to support weight while youre actually rolling (it causes the package to sort of drift up and down while you walk) but it'll save your arms between takes.


Anyway thats my experience, I'd be thrilled to hear a better way to do it.
 
Thanks for the comments Keith. Does anyone sell a flexible LEMO power cable to use with a battery belt? My LEMO cables are stiff and bulky and may effect balance.
 
Keith Van Orden said:
Unfortunately I don't have any pictures, so I'll try to be as thorough as possible.

Generally camera houses or ACs will tell you the only way to mount an Epic (Dragon or Mysterium) on a ronin is by using redvolts in a side handle, but personally, I hate redvolts. They don't give very much juice and the side handle is an unnecessary bit of clutter on the side of the brain. What you should do is use a battery belt clip, with Red Bricks, on the belt of the camera operator. This shouldn't affect the balance of the gimbal, and will allow you to keep your camera powered for much much longer. There are ways to mount a red brick onto the body of the camera (I've seen people use side mounting v mounts on the side of the brain) or onto the top cross bar (using something similar to a battery belt clip), but after many shoots with the ronin, I find a belt clip is the simplest and quickest solution and it takes a lot of weight off the rig itself.

You should mount your LCD or monitor to the cross bar using the mounts that come with the ronin. Run a longer EVF cable from the brain to the monitor. This shouldn't affect balance.

Follow focuses vary so much in terms of weight and configuration, it's hard to say what is ideal because in many situations, what you have is what you have. Using something extremely bulky like an older bartech will cause your package to become extremely front heavy (especially when using a heavy lens), so I'd recommend something light like an RT motion or Redrock rig, if you have the option. Ronin's come with light weight mounting rods and step rings for the rods so you can mount any kind of follow focus. I'd recommend using a DSMC Tactical Top plate or something similar so you can zip tie any receivers or whatnot as far back on the body as possible, as far as the cables will allow, but again, this depends on what equipment is available to you.

If you have an AC who can pull focus for you, use a paralinx arrow or something similar to get signal to any directors or AC monitors. If you are one-man-banding it, mount your follow focus remote so its on the far end of the top bar, so you can spin the dial with two fingers while still holding onto the handle. I highly highly highly recommend you don't do this and have someone pull focus for you.

Also an easy rig is your best friend. Don't allow it to support weight while youre actually rolling (it causes the package to sort of drift up and down while you walk) but it'll save your arms between takes.


Anyway thats my experience, I'd be thrilled to hear a better way to do it.
Click to expand...

Thanks Keith for taking the time to respond. I think I was making this more complicated than it needed to be. What length do you recommend for the monitor cable?
 
This was from a recent job
Not a fan of redvolts, what I've been using is IDX Endura CUE-D75's and IDX Endura E-7S batteries that I have kickin around. Lightest batteries I could find. Runtime isn't great but it seems to work for me.

I also have the WC V-mount for the side of the camera so depending on the lens and rest of setup I sometimes mount the Enduras on the side. The RED lcd is mounted to the top bar.
In the photo it's mid setup, I just secured the rest of the wires so that they don't wiggle around and mess with the balance.

We ran this setup, with a few re balances for lens swaps for a 12 hour day handheld. My shoulders were completely destroyed , so an easy rig would be a definite upgrade.

I think the key to the ronin is experimentation For me , it all really came together once I figured out the battery situation. Those small enduras on the back of the camera or on the side really gives you options when balancing.
 
Jeremy Wiles said:
Thanks Keith for taking the time to respond. I think I was making this more complicated than it needed to be. What length do you recommend for the monitor cable?
Click to expand...

I think 32 inches is fine. You basically need it to be long enough so it won't tug on the cable when the camera is articulated directly upwards or directly downwards (it does this during calibration), so you need a fair bit of slack. I think 4 ft is over doing it though, and too much slack equals clutter. I've done fine with the 32 inch cable.
 
For Epic, add arm extensions and put a small batt (90 to 110 amp hours) on the back. Or pick up a Movi side batt mount and use slim batts like IDX E7's. This set up keeps it nice and short, lessening the torque on the tilt. With this set up, I'll use a red mote on the back and then that way I can forego the red touch screen and use my favorite operator's monitor on the cross bar instead. For that I use a thin SDI cable to monitor then route to a paralinx or teradek transmitter mounted along the cross bar. I did go through a lipo phase. They get the best power to weight performance but the charging, storage and use protocols are too much of a hassle for AC's as well as myself, not to mention flight hassles.

For follow focus I currently use a DJI wireless FF. It's a receiver and motor in one unit, lessening the cabling and one less thing to rig. Works great for gimbal work. My current monitor of choice is a F&V Spectra soon to be replaced by a Small HD 702.

I never do gimbal work without bringing along my Ready Rig GS. It's light, fast to set up, and just works out of the box. Gets through doorways as well. I don't feel weighed down and looking like robo cop as well. That said, it's not a true iso elastic device but does smooth out 5th axis bumps and just makes the day a ton easier.

I'm awaiting shipment on a Turbo Ace Jockey to seal the deal. That with Ready Rig will make a mobile, light, bump eating machine.
 
For those looking for a flexible LCD cable, my company manufactures and sells there here:

shop.battlefieldcine.com
 
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