Basic Question on EVF

[Nick Keller]

How well is it to judge for exposure? I am shooting my second RED project. Last time I was fortunate enough to have a great operator and a 17inch monitor to check things. The RED LCD has worked great for me to. Though this next project the package is bare bones and a lot of it is handheld. So being that I will be using the EVF a lot, I was just wondering if it will give me a nice reference for exposure.

 

[Brandon Fraley]

not sure what you mean? I would assume you'd use use the exposure tools (histogram, false color, zebras) to judge exposure, and you can do that well on even a shitty display.

 

[Jeff Coatney]

How well is it to judge for exposure? I am shooting my second RED project. Last time I was fortunate enough to have a great operator and a 17inch monitor to check things. The RED LCD has worked great for me to. Though this next project the package is bare bones and a lot of it is handheld. So being that I will be using the EVF a lot, I was just wondering if it will give me a nice reference for exposure.

One of the benefits of shooting digital is that your "emulsion" gets to finally talk to you and tell you what's going on at the sensor (film can't speak until it gets out of the lab). The EVF can help with focusing and framing, but I wouldn't trust the image for exposure, its just not possible to manufacture CRT's or LCD's to tolerances that enable 100% perfect signal response from one unit to the next over thousands of units. Use the exposure data info on the screen, don't trust the EVF screen for exposure. -- Just my 2 cents based on experience.

 

[Vigen Vartanov]

Get cheap light meter , and use it .

 

[Thomas Pohl]

I feel fine using just the 7`LCD (in combination with the internal histogram) - but I just use it with a sun shield.

 

[nigelsmith]

Get cheap light meter , and use it .

I have been using a [not so cheap] Sekonic L608.
The problem is, it doesn't match up with what Red's false colour mode says, either in Rec 709 or RAW view.
So which would you trust?

 

[Stuart English]

Light Meter

Light Meter

The problem is, it doesn't match up with what Red's false colour mode says, either in Rec 709 or RAW view.

Have you tried this with Build 30 ?

 

[nigelsmith]

Have you tried this with Build 30 ?

No - I didn't want to risk the beta build yet, as this is a film school Red One.
I had previously overcome this problem with build 17, using MacGregor's Profile: SC 4.1 250ISO, but I'm reluctant to use a look at all on camera with later builds.

 

[Jannard]

No - I didn't want to risk the beta build yet, as this is a film school Red One.
I had previously overcome this problem with build 17, using MacGregor's Profile: SC 4.1 250ISO, but I'm reluctant to use a look at all on camera with later builds.

We are doing new builds because they are better and fix issues like you are talking about. If you don't try them...

For us, hearing observations from past builds doesn't count. Been there, fixed that. Try the new stuff in tests... don't be afraid.

Jim

 

[Martin Weiss]

I didn't want to risk the beta build yet

You can always go back to an earlier (release) build.

But trust me, once you try B30, you don't want to go back.

 

[nigelsmith]

We are doing new builds because they are better and fix issues like you are talking about. If you don't try them...

For us, hearing observations from past builds doesn't count. Been there, fixed that. Try the new stuff in tests... don't be afraid.

Jim

Ok.
Thanks for the response Jim.
I'm downloading it now.
Here we go...

 

[nigelsmith]

Have you tried this with Build 30 ?

I just carried out a similar test on Build v30.4.1, and I'm still getting around a stop difference between my L608 and the RAW level meter. To get the green bar lit up when filling the frame with an 18% grey card I need T4, while my light meter tells me I need T5.6. Both incident and reflected readings on the Sekonic agree.
This test was using Arri Studio Cools with daylight tubes, camera set to 5600k. Camera and lightmeter both set to 1/50th shutter speed and 320EI. Camera was in 2K 16:9 mode, using a Canon T2.4 8-64mm lens.
I'm really hoping there's something I'm missing or doing wrong, so any advice is appreciated.

You can always go back to an earlier (release) build.
But trust me, once you try B30, you don't want to go back.

You're right - there are some cool new features. One big improvement for me is seeing all the metering [except RGB histogram] based on RAW sensor data at last....but still not matching up with my meter :crying:
Also, is it just me, or did RAW view get more colourful/saturated than it used to be? I seem to remember an almost monochrome image on build 16.

 

[nima]

Build 30 is so far the best build version.
I would be confident with the camera flexibility. A good light meeter and the use of zebra patterns should do the job.
This is of course if you are planning a first light cc.

The EVF is definitely more accurate than Red monitors.