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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

As a still camera

John, are you referring to shooting with your project timebase at 59.94? Or shooting high speed 60 frames over 24? I would suggest keeping your shutter in relative mode and seeing what you get. I have been finding that I can pull very good stills from RED as long as the shutter is adjusted properly.

As far as handing over frames, you can export DPX or TIFF from RED apps.
 
Steve,

Thanks for your reply. I am talking about shooting 60frames high speed.

but if you have the time can you explain the difference between timebase and high speed?

Is there an option where I can export entire clip as a series of tiffs or Jpgs? Kind of like the inverse of making a image sequence from a group of stills.

Thanks

John



QUOTE=Steve Sherrick;471182]John, are you referring to shooting with your project timebase at 59.94? Or shooting high speed 60 frames over 24? I would suggest keeping your shutter in relative mode and seeing what you get. I have been finding that I can pull very good stills from RED as long as the shutter is adjusted properly.

As far as handing over frames, you can export DPX or TIFF from RED apps.[/QUOTE]
 
I don't believe it will make a difference in your case. Steve is referring to playback on your video timeline. Since you don't intend to play them back in video a 23.98 or 59.94 timeline doesn't matter.

I take it your accustomed to shooting stills. What you have to contend with is light vs. blur in images. The sharpest you want the stills you have to increase the size of the shutter- for fast moving objects. You'll also need more light.

For 60 frames per second you'd have to shoot on the hard drive, and want to shoot 3k.

As far as exporting all stills command- I'm not aware of one.

vlad
 
Also be aware that shooting 60fps will not allow you to shoot at the highest resolution RED has to offer. While this is usually fine for HD work, for print this can lead to a reduction in print qualtiy (depending on how large you plan to print). Even shooting at 4K at 24fps is more than twice as fast as any still camera can shoot currently available.
Now for high speed situations, depending on how high speed you will want to have as high a shutter speed as is allowed by your current available light. shooting 1/500th of a second or even 1/1000 of a second will give you blur free images in many situations. You may want to consider however using a slower shutter speed (1/120th) of a second and panning with your action. This will give you a sharp image in objects that move with your pan and motion blur in objects that are moving against or faster than your pan. There are lots of options, if your shooting red for still, then treat the RED like you would any still camera. The same rules apply. I do reccomend however that you shoot at RED's highest available resolution which would be 4K 16:9.
As far as post goes, using RED Cine would be a simple way to spit out individual 32bit tiff frames. You can then edit those frames in photoshop or even hand them off to the client using RED cine as your editor.
 
John Reynolds said:
I am getting ready to take the red on a still shoot. What shutter speed would be recommended for shooting high action at 60fps? Also, what would be the cleanest way to hand over my footage as individual frames?
Click to expand...

If you want to get the sharpest still extractions, you need to shot at a relatively low FPS, unless you really need the high speed for capturing extreme fast actin, explosions, FX etc. you want to shoot below 30fps, depending on the size print you need to do, you want to shoot at the highest possible resolution allowed depending on speed of fps you choose, but most importantly you need to shoot at the highest Shutter speed allowed by the lighting that you have at your disposal, this will give you that sharpest images, free of motion blur, that can easily happen at lower shutter speeds, forget shooting at 1/48th, if you have any motion at all in your subjects, of if you shooting people, it is a great shutters speed for motion capture but not so good for Still extraction.


So my best suggestion to you is, lower FPS, higher Shutter speed and extra two stops of lighting when compared to illuminating a motion shoot.
 
Ketch nailed it... Its the same MO that I have adopted.. and you will see some of those results in a few days. Highest shutter is always best.. but remember if you plan on using it as Video down the road at sometime it may look funky. High action this is to be expected and is much more acceptable.. but for dramatic or fashion stuff, you want the dream to remain a dream (usually)
 
If you are only getting stills, I agree with Ketch. I did a shoot with video and still. Shot at 24fps and a 90˚ shutter. The model held poses at certain points and the stills were sharp. The motion also looked good, not too stroby. Definitely shoot at 4k max bitrate.
 
Might sound stupid by the 1/48th stuff is the degree on the shutter right? So I'm guessing that would be 48 degrees? whilst the 90 degrees is 1/90th?

right?
 
Imran Farouk said:
Might sound stupid by the 1/48th stuff is the degree on the shutter right? So I'm guessing that would be 48 degrees? whilst the 90 degrees is 1/90th?

right?
Click to expand...

Nope.

When people refer to shutter angles, it is written '90°' or '90 degrees'. Shutter angle is a term from the film camera days and refers to the size of the physical opening in the physical shutter. A 180° shutter is open half the time, regardless of frame rate. So, with 180° shutter at 24fps, your exposure time is 1/48th of a second. With a 180° shutter at 120fps, your exposure time is 1/240th of a second.

When people refer to shutter speeds, it is written '1/90th' or '1/90 second'. It is an absolute measure of exposure time, and does not depend on frame rate (although you cannot have a shutter speed longer than your frame rate - ie. if you are shooting 24 fps, a shutter speed of 1/12 of a second is clearly impossible).
 
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