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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Any idea as to what their process was to shoot this?

Andrew Burhoe

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Okay I am shooting my first short film this Saturday and I am looking for ideas as to my final product will look like.

Here is a camera test I found and really liked what they did.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPkl1Uql2YY

Also well does ISO 100 on the RED work with the RED 18-50mm zoom to get a bluer sky if I use an ND 3, 6, or 9?
 
Okay I am shooting my first short film this Saturday and I am looking for ideas as to my final product will look like.

Here is a camera test I found and really liked what they did.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPkl1Uql2YY

Also well does ISO 100 on the RED work with the RED 18-50mm zoom to get a bluer sky if I use an ND 3, 6, or 9?


The didnt do anything special - and frankly it looks fairly amateur.

If you want this effect though, shoot on an overcast day, overexpose a tad and color your shadows.
 
There's nothing too complicated here.

They have an ultrawide lens on the camera (possibly a Tokina 11-16mm at 11mm), and are using a handheld rig of some sort with two handles - you can just make it out reflected in the car windows.

Initially I thought it might be Steadicam, but in fact it's definitely handheld. The ultra wide tends to hide camera shake quite well.

Slower ISO than the recommended ISO 320, and NDs will give you a reduced exposure which may help prevent the sky from clipping white - so from that point of view it will bring the blue sky down from clipping, but may result in everything else being too dark.

Also a polarising filter will give more saturated blue skies, but the effect varies with angle from the sun, with the strongest happening at the horizon at 90 degrees from the sun. This becomes apparent mainly when shooting ultrawide as then you see more of the sky which shows the non-uniform polarising effect across the sky. This may or may not be acceptable for your shot.
 
They pushed the blacks towards blue and the highlights towards orange/yellow, and either lifted the blacks a bit or just didn't crush them (depending on the way they graded).

An easy way to do this is to make an s-curve to reduce contrast in the blue channel only, which will get you a good bit of the way to this look.

Tim
 
Thanks to all. I mean yeah it does look amateurish. Now I will post up a frame from the camera test I do tomorrow so you can better see the look I want to achieve.

I mean I just want the best damn look with the RED I can get when its sunny out with a really nice looking blue sky, but still the subjects will not be too dark or over exposed.
 
Apply bad color correction in FCP?

If you want a cost effective 'hollywood' look, get a copy of Magic Bullet Mojo. I think its probably what you're looking for
 
Apply bad color correction in FCP?

If you want a cost effective 'hollywood' look, get a copy of Magic Bullet Mojo. I think its probably what you're looking for

Wouldn't it be more cost effective to not buy magic bullet? Can magic bullet really do more than other color correctors?
 
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