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ADVICE: Overpowering the sun

Tom Van

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I'm working on a series of commercials that require shooting outdoors in direct sunlight. In the past, I've used 12x12s and diffusion panels and that worked great for one-n-done commercials but this time I need a consistent look from one commercial to another. If we have to use big boy lights, how much output is needed to overpower the sun? Is a 10K HMI enough?
 
"Overpowering" is a strong word, since the sun is just a huge and direct source that's insanely far away. Therefore, all exterior HMI lighting really is a "cheat" as we're scaling-down that ratio of distance-to-intensity to create the most pleasing quality. Consequently, most realistic replications of sunlight are achieved by the largest, brightest source, placed as far away as allowed by the given scenario. Hence, the ARRIMAX 18K really is the only thing that can hold a candle to the sun.

Of course, caveats apply, but here are some quick thoughts on HMIs & Exteriors, as many budgets don't allow for condors flying banks of 18Ks w/ diffusion frames.
-M18s are good for a backlight on medium to close-up shots. It becomes very noticeable and "sourcey" when competing with any type of bright background exposure.
-M40s are better for scenes between 1-4 people and can you get away with using it as a bright key in certain situations. You also begin to have more versatility to soften/distance with this amount of juice, so the quality is much nicer.
-M90s are amazing lights. For contained shots where you're trying to light an exterior subject/scene with existing sun present, an M90 through a light diffusion frame is a great starting point. For a backlit/flarey/commercial vibe, M90s are workhorses and provide extra versatility in the type of light quality you can create.
-The ARRIMAX 18/12 is absolutely a pleasure to have on set when replicating daylight. Whether lighting sidewalk conversations, park scenes, sports fields, or large interiors through windows, the ARRIMAX truly gives the most versatility and freedom to set a position and shoot AS IF you had an optimal sun position all day.
 
Just read Adams reply... he is spot on... love his use of the term 'sourcey' as this is the key.. I hate a sourcey look unless we are trying for something with theatrical or certain genre cues .. your taste or approach may be different

Get a good gaffer on the job ASAP...when it is overcast a 9k is fine for a sun replacement for a small area but even in the uk it will not overpower the Sun.. for a softened sun replacement for a ext natural feeling beauty ad where the sun is in the wrong place (not big scene) I'd start with 2x18ks on the list but there are so many variables you do need to take the gaffer on a recce... as what is in the shots is so key

Good luck
 
Thanks for the breakdown, this is the information I was looking for. Unfortunately, none of the options are within budget. So maybe what I should really ask is what my options are if these lights aren't available. The challenge is fighting overcast or in-n-out clouds affecting the exposure. There are 4 commercials in total and the need to keep the look consistent (or within range) is important.

Can I get away with a 4K shooting through a diffusion panel for the closeups and mediums, and then time it to shoot a wide that's naturally lit?
 
If you don't have budget, 4'x4' mirror boards are great for redirecting the sun's rays and aiming them.

Makes the grips work extra hard.

1'x1' mirrors also useful.

A good key grip and gaffer who are in sync with each other and with their lighting crew will really help you keep a consistent look, if the sun goes down your mirror boards won't help too much though...
 
Depending on the framing of your shots, you might also consider a combination of negative fill with large flags and a 20x20 or larger overhead. Use black or white silks, scrims, etc on the overhead frame to create the right look / environment underneath. Then use the HMI's to add the punch where you need it.
 
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