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3D with two RED Camera (especially thoughts on how it might work for Scarlet Fixed)

Graeme Hay

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I'm just wondering how the whole 3D on RED thing works.

1. I'm assuming its a cable or something that allows you to sync the frames so that they shoot at the same time?
2. That the sync cable is more that just an on/off signal? What info is passed between the cameras.
3. Do we need one of these 90 degree with glass set-up or can we mount the cameras side-by-side (seen some pictures so yes?)

Next, I'm assuming for 3D to work you basically need 2 identical rigs (same camera, same lens, same settings). So my question is would it be feasible that the cable that transfers the sync also pass lens and setting data, or do you need to do everything twice (once on each camera). How would one pull focus then?

With the scarlet fixed (or smart mount?) it would be nice if one camera was the master with the side handle/remote and the other just duplicated the commands given by a sync cable.

or am I just talking crazy talk?
 
You need:

1 x http://www.red.com/store/cables/product/lemo-to-lemo-cat5e-ethernet-straight-cable-4 - This enables master / master or master / slave communication between the two cameras. ie you press record on one and it starts on the other.
2 x http://www.red.com/store/cables/product/3bnc-to-00-lemo-sync-cable - One of these for each camera. This is used to sync shutter and timecode between the two cameras.
1 x http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/406893-REG/Denecke_SB_T_SB_T_Time_Code_Generator.html - Something like this to generate timecode and sync for the two cameras. There are other boxes out there as well. This happens to be the one I own.

You can mount side-by-side. This does limit how close an object can be. One rule of thumb is 30 times the distance between the center of the two lens.
 
To sync the cameras you need both cameras to be genlocked and have a common timecode source. You will need a RED sync cable for each camera to plug into your TC and GL sources. This will ensure both sensors are in sync on every frame. You will also need the RED LAN cable to slave the cameras and ensure matching settings and synchronized run/stop.
The type of rig you need depends entirely on what you're shooting. Side-by-side rigs are appropriate for setups which require very wide IOs (such as landscapes or anything where your closest object is very far from the camera) while beamsplitter rigs are much better suited to the majority of typical coverage situations you'd find in a narrative project.
You will need pairs of lenses, either primes or zooms, which match geometrically and in field of view as closely as possible. You'll need a set of digital lens motors to synchronize focus pulls, zooms and iris changes. Typically this consists of two lens control systems (like the Preston) slaved to one lens controller.
You will also need a solution for on-set 3D monitoring.
Talk to an experienced stereographer or rig technician or depth puller to get a clearer idea of what gear you need for your particular stereo project.
Also, the 30:1 rule is in practice pretty extreme for most situations. Your proper IO setting for a given shot is tied into lens choice, subject and background distance, the limits you place on yourself for total background and foreground deviation percentages, and how much depth you want to feel in your shot.
 
Thanks for the info Stacey & Keith, your answers covered the info I needed.


I think you should really get some fundamental studying of 3D done as soon as you can, any of the Bernard Mendiburu books from focal press or my little survival guide on iBook or Kindle.

The cable info is very useful but without at least a basic understanding you're in for a world of pain.
 
Hire a stereographer. Quick.
Not trying to be snarky, but 3D, from what little experience I have had, will indeed be a world of pain, as Geoff says, without expert help.
Maybe even with expert help. ;)
Cheers,
Harry
 
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