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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

1st time helicopter use...

Shawn Nelson

Shawn Nelson

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So next month looking at shooting from a helicopter for the first time.

First, has anyone tried using an Easyrig? I barely have the "budget" to pay the pilot to get the helo up in the air, so I can't afford to rent a gyro system. I was thinking that my Easyrig 3, along with stabalization in post, should be a good result. Has anyone else done this?

Second, what focal length is good? I'll be using my prime set so I'll have to sort of make the call before I go in the air. Right now sort of leaning towards a 35mm.
 
I shot a bunch of be roll on my super low budge doc http://lightinthehimalayas.com/ from a tiny plan with the door open.
I haven't posted any of the footage but I used bungie cords strapped to the door and hung my camera off of the door. By keeping tension on the bungie's I was able to stabilize my footage and also keep the camera for vibrating.

My experience was that the a longer lens looked a lot more dynamic. shooting wide didn't capture the movement nearly as well. You just looked like you were floating instead flying over mountains. Plus, you already have such a wide vantage point from the helicopter.

Just my two cents.
 
Shawn Booth said:
I would say no to the easy rig in a helo. I dont think for one you'd fit...

Wider lenses...
Click to expand...

I should fit fine, the doors will be gone so I can be somewhat leaning out the window (camera anyways)
 
Yaque Silva-Doyle said:
I shot a bunch of be roll on my super low budge doc http://lightinthehimalayas.com/ from a tiny plan with the door open.
I haven't posted any of the footage but I used bungie cords strapped to the door and hung my camera off of the door. By keeping tension on the bungie's I was able to stabilize my footage and also keep the camera for vibrating.

My experience was that the a longer lens looked a lot more dynamic. shooting wide didn't capture the movement nearly as well. You just looked like you were floating instead flying over mountains. Plus, you already have such a wide vantage point from the helicopter.

Just my two cents.
Click to expand...

that footage looks really awesome! any pics of your bungie rig?
 
Yaque Silva-Doyle said:
I shot a bunch of be roll on my super low budge doc http://lightinthehimalayas.com/ but I used bungie cords strapped to the door and hung my camera off of the door. By keeping tension on the bungie's I was able to stabilize my footage and also keep the camera for vibrating.
Click to expand...

I second this!

I have shot this way many times, usually works quite well - not like a pro rig of course.

And I don´t need to tell you that you can forget about using the Red Drive, but I will say it for anyone wlse who reads this: You can forget about using a red drive while filming from a helicopter.
 
Depends on the ship. In a Euro Copter or A-Star, or a Jet Ranger for that matter, you probably will need a rig of some sort. In a Robinson R44, we hand held the camera to isolate vibration (doors off). We used the Red drive-- it should be fine as long as it doesn't come into contact with the ship. Loosely tape a CF into the slot so you can just push it in if the drive fails or you need to unmount it. Tape down everything! Be ridiculous with taping the Mattebox, every bolt, flap, corner, connector, cable. The slipstream on a helo with the doors off is in excess of 120mph even on a Robinson, depending on airspeed and vibration can loosen the screws and bolts. Also you must safety tether the camera to the cabin on a very short line. Don't stick the camera outside the helo except in hover, the wind can rip it right out of your hands. As for focal length, I'd use a 50mm, but that's just me. I'm guessing you do want to see things on the ground? Have fun and good luck and remember anything you drop out of the ship can kill somebody.
 
I second what Jeff said and would add strap yourself in well, too, especially as you lean out. You really don't want to fall from the copter when it hits a thermal and drops a few feet suddenly.
 
Shawn,

First, Gibby's posts on helo specifics for RED really really helped me out a lot when I started doing aerials, search for him and aerial. There are experts out there, I am not one, but I have done quite a few low budget red helo shoots lately, and have learned how to get near cineflex looking stuff for wide shots:

We've rented a Tyler MiniGyro for pretty cheap, 400 a day I think, and it requires no hard connection to the bird, so no costs there. Works very well when you strip red down. Not hard mount good, but with the below tricks, well enough. Worth every dime and cheap in the context of 1500 an hour a star time. If you use a mini gyro, be sure to ALSO use a bungee on the top to stabilize the device at the top more - we did not do this the first time, and have since with much better results.

Generally, the shorter the focal length the better off you are, however, when we went as wide as 15-25, we get problems with camera movement forward and back generating visible edge distortion as the camera moves fore and aft, so 35-55mm was our sweet spot - again, for low budget, not hard mounted stuff, wide shots.

We also generally shoot at 3K 60/50FPS and visualize the movements, and tell the pilot, to increase actual speed of moves to anticipate and keep the shot correct when slowed down 50%. That is probably the biggest trick for us without a hard mount. 50FPS with the associated change in absolute shutter angle.

Keeping the lens light was key - still glass or the red wide zooms have worked well. Heavier cine glass no good, too heavy. Of course, if you are shooting an actual specific subject/object and need longer glass, you pretty much have to either go to a hard mount or shoot at 100FPS and get creative with the portion you actually use in post, but you don't have enough resolution to use post stabilizing without the image getting pretty soft.

Finally, we usually use SmoothCam or other post stabilizing to get to silky smooth. Starting at 3K 50FPS then adding that post process, tweaking the post settings carefully for whatever you use, you can get near cineflex quality moves (for wider shots) on a near handheld budget.

Again, all this is for wider scenics and general pans and tilts for large objects.
 
Jeff's advice is quite good and I would emphasize the safety issues. Sometimes in all the pressure to get it good and fast, to make things work on a budget, compromises are made or safety issues (personal safety, aircraft safety and camera safety) don't get the attention they need. The best shot in the world, after all, doesn't do you any good if you are dead...
 
Hi Shawn, what kid of shot are you doing and what kind of chopper are you using?

I can't think of any aerial situations where I would want an easyrig, at least in smaller choppers. The kenyon gyro's are useful but you would want to practice operating with it first before you take off.

Don't underestimate the rotor wash and slipstream... it's a lot of wind. Get everything fully organized before you start the motor. Wind is probably going to be the biggest cause of shakes, next the chopper, third you.

Pilots skill levels can vary quite a bit, make sure you don't ask for more than he/she is comfortable doing, be safe and you can get the perfect shot next time !

AS 350B3 13.5k ft. Chile. 7/11/10
strapped-in.jpg


Matt Uhry
www.mattuhry.com
 
thanks everyone!

the craft is a Robinson R44 with the doors taken off. I thought that the tension of the easyrig would take out some vibrations while giving me the freedom to move my camera around while keeping the weight of the camera firmly down my backside (where I will remain well strapped in).
 
Well that just stinks. Of all the helicopters, a Robinson would be my last choice. At least you're looking at the R44 and not the R22. A piston helicopter is going to vibrate more than a turbine. I really don't see how you're going to get an Easyrig to work in a Robinson.
 
Mark Phelan said:
Well that just stinks. Of all the helicopters, a Robinson would be my last choice. At least you're looking at the R44 and not the R22. A piston helicopter is going to vibrate more than a turbine. I really don't see how you're going to get an Easyrig to work in a Robinson.
Click to expand...

dang, well, maybe this thread is teaching me i should scrap the idea. I had a friend shoot a Red out of a helo using only a cinesaddle, so I thought my easyrig would be even better.
 
I used my cinesaddle with a borrowed Kenyon 6 gyro in a Jet Ranger a couple months ago and it worked fine, but still there were times when we banked the blades made the footage unusable due to the chop, chop, chop. A three rotor or more turbine helicopter is really your best bet. Everything else becomes a compromise of some sort. But hey, you live and learn. Any chance of borrowing/renting a gyro mount?
 
Shawn Nelson said:
dang, well, maybe this thread is teaching me i should scrap the idea. I had a friend shoot a Red out of a helo using only a cinesaddle, so I thought my easyrig would be even better.
Click to expand...

Your body will absorb much of the engine vibration... I would just go for it and see what happens, that's how you learn. Try going to the heliport and sit in the chopper and see what works and does not a few days before you go flying, so you have time to get gear that works for you.

Matt Uhry
www.mattuhry.com
 
Matt Uhry said:
Your body will absorb much of the engine vibration... I would just go for it and see what happens, that's how you learn. Try going to the heliport and sit in the chopper and see what works and does not a few days before you go flying, so you have time to get gear that works for you.

Matt Uhry
www.mattuhry.com
Click to expand...

VERY good advice because you'll see how much/little room you really have. With a Robinson, you're going to be one cheek in, one out anyway, so it would be good to get a feel for that beforehand.
 
I shot from the Robinson R44 last summer, I was terribly sceptical going in, and I would usually try to get a Eurocopter 350 or similar, but there is a big price difference.

I managed to get fairly decent results, despite all the movement.

We suspended the camera in bungee like coord, and there was a small gyro attached, but I don´t think it made any difference, it was way to small (I couldnt+ feel any resistance from it)

It´s dooable, but don´t expect the smoothest results.
 
Any sort of body mounted stabilizer in a vehicle is pretty much a death wish.

If the camera gets away from you during an unexpected movement all the added weight and inertia can pull you to your untimely end.

In my early days I used to park my ass on the tailgate of pickup trucks when shooting with steadicam... thankfully survived my ignorance, and never operate soft mount in any vehicle.

As I understand it, Easyrig is a body mount... this is not safe in a helicopter, plane, boat, car etc. Don't do it.

Honestly the Bungee Rig and Kenyon gyro's are your best bet for low budget helicopter work.

The R44 is another matter. Piston Engine, limted lift... not for me.

Good luck and be safe.
 
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