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1st AC's: Could use some advice on a wireless steadicam set-up and technique

Michael Solomon

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Hey guys,

I could use your help. I'm about to embark on a rather interesting shoot. It's going to be a 30 minute long continuous steadicam take. Shooting on a 35mm @ t/4 on the Alexa. I could use some advice in regards to the set-up and what technique you think would work best. I'm familiar with pulling remotely on steadicam rigs, but this is a first for me when it comes to the length of the take combined with the complexity of the moves. The op will be going back and forth between crane, dolly, and roaming. I would love to get your opinion on which gear to go with for the following

1) Wireless follow focus (leaning towards preston)
2) Wireless transmitter/receiver (would appreciate a money no object, and then a "reasonable" option)
3) Possibly a monitor (see below).

I'd also love to get some input from you guys in regards to technique.

1) Typically, in the past, I've always followed and pulled along side/behind the steadicam op but that may be difficult this shoot. Would you advise trying to stick with him or go the route of pulling wirelessly from a monitor?
2) Is there a way to rig a smaller 5-7" monitor to the preston with a cinetape readout and a wireless video feed etc. so I could somewhat follow with the steadicam op? Would that be a better route to go than sitting next to a 17" field monitor?
3) Also, I'll be using cinetape for the first time in my career. Do you guys have any suggestions or is there anything I should prepare myself for? I'm still not entirely 100% sure about the mechanics insofar as how it functions and knows what the camera is looking at. I know it's there simply to be a spot check and I shouldn't rely on it.
4) Do you think that 1-2 anton bauers could actually power the camera, WFF, cinetape, and all the other gak for a 30 minute take?

Any other tips for pulling on extremely long takes would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance guys! I really value the advice I've gotten on here in the past!
 
I recently did a 40min take for a feature. I was using my Epic which is less weight than the Alexa. Makes it a lot easier to do one take after another for 30mins. When I work with Alexa I strip everything off. I also have a lightweight Alexa plate http://www.gpiprosystems.com/alexa-camera-plate.php
I use a Paralinx Arrow Plus for wireless video. It's realtime HD, has been very reliable and has minimal weight.
Also it has multiple receivers. So you could have one on a large monitor for the director and one on a small one for you.
Normally the operator would have the wireless focus. I have digital Bartech, Preston is one of the best. If you get a Alexa Plus I would get the Arri Hand unit as the receiver would be built in.
As for the Cinetape I would rent the wireless system for it http://www.plcelectronicsolutions.com/categories/WIRELESS-FOR-CINETAPE(tm)/?sort=pricedesc
I always power the Alexa from the sled with 2 Dionic HC batteries for 24V and that will be enough for the take.

Wether you walk with the operator or stay at a large monitor is up to you. Also depends on the space and how far you are traveling during the shot.
The other advantage of Epic over Alexa is that there would be room for reframing in post. Maybe a light got in at the top of frame of a otherwise good take or....
And if it's Raw on the Alexa make sure it's the new XT with built in Codex.
Sergei
http://www.sergeifranklin.com
 
Ask the operator to get the CINETAPE INTERFACE cable and get the PRESTON HU3. The cinetape will be displayed on the hand unit screen. No need for separate readout.
If you use the ARRI branded cinetape (UDM1), you can get a pigtail cable adapter to have the readout work with the Cinetape interface cable. Most rental houses will be able to get you that cable.
Like Sergei said: 2 Dionics HC fully charged should get you thru the 30 minute take with accessories.
The cinetape is a really nice tool, but you should use it wisely, you should use the cinetape to reassure you in doubt and not rely strictly on it's readout . And it can be of great help when you have blind spots while following the operator. Also, a lot of tweeking is necessary to get a good reading (long or short horns, sensitivity, calibration...) Do not take the cinetape out of the box on shooting day if you have never used one.
Transmitter (ask the operator what he wants or not) I would suggest something light for a 30 minute shot .
I'm not a big fan of assistants that check on the monitor because all they do is react to a soft shot.... If you feel you can do a better job at the monitor, make sure the operator knows about it and feels confortable not having you by his side.
Also if you have a rehearsal or two, make sure to record them and check where you have problems or difficulties.
In summary , test everything out equipment wise and make sure you are 100% confortable both with the equipment and the way to shoot it. And share ALL of your toughts with the operator, these long shots are really a team work, you both need to be on the same page all the way.
Have fun, fly safe !
Frederic
 
Preston is the way to go. Far and above the best.

The best option for wireless is the Boxx Meridian. Reasonable option would be something along Teredeck Bolt/Paralinx Arrow/Switchonix Recon Ultra

The Cinetape is fantastic, but, like you said, just a checking point (and only accurate to about 21'). See if you can get the mattebox mounting strip.
 
I'm with JP on the Preston. The Bartechs, and M-ONE motors are becoming increasingly more affordable these days --- might look into those. If I had the dough, I'd be dropping a check into that sometime in the future...

Also -- the Parralinx arrow is a nice addition. The only downfall is the lack of SDI/HD.... kind of shotty dealing with the janki-ness of HDMI...

Quick pointer that can save you a couple hundred bucks --- Aries Nyrius Pro is almost identical to the Arrow, and works just the same.. Bought one and I use the heck out of it on all of my jobs --

http://www.amazon.ca/Nyrius-Wireless-Transmitter-Receiver-NPCS550/dp/B0092T3E3A

Worth checking out!!
 
Thanks for the tips! Had no idea the preston could get a feed from the cinetape, now to just track down a cable. Can't say I've worked with the Aries before. I'll have to ask around and see if anyone I know has one that I can play with and test.

As a side note, joshua, do you think it worth the investment to pick up a WFF as an AC? I feel like crane operators and steadicam ops always provide their own. The only time I see making a return on it is on shoulder mounted shoots where the DP wants to get me away from the camera.

I'll make sure to let you all know how it goes! I'm feeling much better about it after talking with the DP and the steadicam op. Plus the fact that production is willing to spring for all the toys that I feel I need to assist in pulling.
 
Interpolating the data from the Cinetape takes some getting used to--this would be a tough trial-by-fire experience to learn on, I would think. You'd hate to pull to the number and then discover it's reading the wrong plane.

Wireless video--you didn't indicate how elaborate the geography covered in this shot will be. I wouldn't trust any of the WHDI sticks (Paralinx, Bolt, Nyrius etc) if there's multi-room travel in this shot, unless the receiver can be trucked around to keep it near the camera. The Boxx Meridien is the best bet but it is a significant weight addition for the operator for this kind of shot where ounces count. BTW the Paralinx guys indicate that they have dynamic frequency selection as well as an additional antennae in their system vs the Nyrius, so don't be taken by the near identical appearance of the cases, they aren't identical guts.

As far as buying a remote lens controller, look back on your last year of jobs and calculate how much you would have made on the return if you had rented same. A Bartech is a smaller investment than a Preston, but you risk it not being "good enough" (it is, but not all DP's may feel that way).
 
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