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Solution to EVF Cold problems

Jay A. Kelley

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www.dreamwelder.com
A lot of people have been looking for a fix to the cold weather problems of the current EVF.

We’d like to offer a solution to this problem until you all can get your hands on a Bomb EVF.

We’re calling this the Arctic-X-Shield. Here are the stats:

The Shield uses three different insulators & and a heater

• Velcro compatible cloth on outside (Wind barrier, not pictured)
• Neoprene open cell insulation
• Industrial closed cell foam insulation
• Electronic heating pad using Microwire™ technology

The shield can use two different power sources, Li-Ion (Powers unit for 90min @ 100%), or Li-Poly (Powers unit for 3 hours 45min @ 100%). Both power sources contain electronic “smart” controllers which, using LEDs or a digital display, give feedback on remaining power, charge status, and 4 different power selections which allows you to increase battery life.
The unit is currently tested to keep the EVF working in 5 degrees F and we expect it will actually do better than that. It’s currently on a shoot in a country known for it’s cold weather, so we’ll see how it does.
The flexible nature of the shield allows you to ADD ANOTHER HEATER for really extreme temps (-14 and below).. (we’ll have photos of this soon)

Pricing:

The base package includes:
• Main cover (The Shield)
• Insulated end cap
• Industrial foam insulation pad
• Microwire™ heating element
• Li-Ion battery with “smart controller”
• Detachable battery pocket
• Battery charger

Cost is $399.00

You will be able to upgrade the package to a Li-Poly battery for about $50 more. We’re pretty sure everyone will want the Li-Poly batteries for the longer run time, but the Li-Ions are cheaper, so we’ll leave that up to you.

We’re on the final steps of this now, and I expect shipping in two weeks.

Note: The bomb EVF rules, so we're not going to make butt-loads of these things. However if you have some cold weather shoots coming in the next few weeks, or do not plan to upgrade to a bomb right away, then this might be useful to you.

Contact me at production@dreamwelder.com if you are interested. Or write here if you have questions.

Thanks! Jay

PS: Attached photos are of prototypes, there are a number of changes, and the final product is "cleaner". There is also a removeable, protective cover for the button area. The really observant of you will notice the EVF is UPSIDE DOWN.. No, you don't have to use it this way.. We simply moved the battery compartment fromt the bottom to the top so you can now see the battery display better.. Rather than get a new proto.. We just flipped the EVF so you could get an idea of what it will look like. :)
 

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Hi Jay,

Looks good. Could you implement a way to bypass the battery and use a D-tap to power it? Would the voltage be correct from a D-tap?

Best, Peter
 
Peter, I am sure you can. The heater has a standard plug and you can get one to mate with it.

I am not going to build one because we're already fighting with battery life on the current RED's and I did not want to drain them anymore.

However I can give you the info you need to make your own. Or you can ask a company to make one for you.

Another factor is that I think it' s important to heat the EVF a little even when the RED is off.

Here's a little tidbit of info no one has told you: The RED EVF does generate internal heat, just not enough in freezing temps. The Shield just gives it the extra help it needs to keep the pic useable.

Hope this helps. :laugh:

Jay
 
Addition

Addition

We've decided to add an additional piece of insulation around the rubber focus ring. This will be separate from the main heated section, so you can still focus the EVF.

There will be no additional charge for this addition.

Jay
 
I think Jay has a pretty good looking solution here. I'm curious as to how cold of temperatures it will still be effective in. And wind chill is always of concern, but this depends on how well this solution can trap warm air against the EVF. A cold wind can wisk that heat away if it finds its way in between the cover and the EVF. The EVF's metal body, and any exposed portions of it, can also conduct and dissipate heat, and faster in the wind.

Anyway, looks like a good solution to take our sensitive EVFs into most general sub-freezing conditions.
 
Jeff asks good questions

Jeff asks good questions

:ihih: Heh heh... This is why we just added a new piece to the rubber section!

We attack the windchill problem pretty well.

The closed cell foam insulation is a major part of this, also we changed to a Neoprene which is covered in a type of cloth (Velcro compatible, cool for attaching things too!). NOT NYLON.. This is a thicker type.

The cloth helps a lot in breaking up the wind before gets to the Neoprene.

Dispite what people think, neoprene is NOT a great unsulator for open air (Wonderful for water!). It helps, don't get me wrong, but closed cell foam is what you need. Neoprene is open cell. We use BOTH.

Once you put this puppy on, we will cover 98% of the EVF.

Right now I know we work in 5 degrees F... I am GUESSING we can keep the EVF usable down to -3. If you add another heater (Which you can do) I bet you can get far below that.

This is a very flexible system. Also extremely light. The battery compartment is removeable, so you can take it off when not needed, and use a piece of velcro instead to keep the rest on as a custom cut protective cover for the EVF. Then when you need heat, simply attached the battery compartment, plug it in, and go freeze your tenders off!

The final prototypes will be in hand next week.. I'm gonna take pictures!

In case anyone is wondering, I am a shooter, and I have been on shoots in 38degree weather where I was being paid a decent amount of money, and suddenly my EVF would solarize to the point of being useless.. Right there, at that point, I would have given my 1st born for a FIX.. And I remember Jim talk about how cool creative solutions were... So here ya go... The first customer on the list is ME!!!! I have shoots coming up in Feburary damnit and I am NOT going through this again!! Like many of you I have taped the handwarmers on the EVF, but customers look at me funny.. I need something that won't raise questions.

Jay

By the way, people have asked about the Lithium Poly batteries..

They are extremely neat and what I recommend cause they are cheaper than the Lithium Ions. They cost more per piece, but the Li-Ions power 90min, the Li-Polys power you for 3 hours and 45min (Actually longer, but I had to stop the test cause my kid was sick... again).. So three of these will get you through a 10 hour work day no problem.. Two will keep you going 7 hours.. And if you are not in 10 degree or below weather, then you can select a lower power setting and lord knows how long you'll last.
 
For those that shoot under cold conditions, at what approximate temp does the EVF begin to show problems?
 
I've done a lot of research on this.. From what I can tell, earlier model EVFs MIGHT be a little more suseptable to cold than later models.

The worse I've seen sadly, is mine.. I start to show banding in the low 40sF. Some do better and do not show bandinig until the lower 20s.

The Shield should keep you safe close to 0F or below.

Jay
 
I've shot a lot in the cold and it seems the EVF performance starts to degrade at temperatures below 40°F for me. It works OK down to about 29°F before it starts to show serious solarization, but i notice it's not quite right at temps below 40. It will stop working all together at about 15°F/-9°C.

If I have the EVF and camera operating at a warmer temperature and then take it into the cold, it holds up fine for a bit until it cools off.

I made myself a heat solution out of a nicely insulated coat sleeve. A worn-out Carhartt work coat that would keep me warm at temps well below -10°F/-23°C. The cuff of the sleeve worked out well around the eyecup and I stitched the other end shut so there was nothing but a small opening for the cable. There was an opening on the one side for the EVF mount to attach and a small hole on the other where I could stick a finger through to operate the buttons. Stuffed with 2 or 3 heat packs, this solution worked pretty well. It was a little cumbersome and not elegant at all. But it worked reliably down to the -10°F temperature range. The heat packs couldn't keep up with prolonged exposure at -15°F and solarization would set in.
 
Another point that's important to note is that there are many LEVELS of solarization. It's hard to keep the EVF COMPLETELY PERFECT. Low light gradients (Shadows) can show a little banding, but it's workable. What you don't want to see is severe banding in skin tones and the like.. That's when you can no longer use it. A band here and there can be dealt with, but once you start losing detail, then that's it.

I hope to have REAL pics of this thing next week. A lot of you have written about getting one.. Cool.. I should know a lot more on Wednesday.

IF you have a shoot coming up quick and REALLY REALLY need one, let me know. I'll try to work something out.

Jay
 
let me know when it been tested in -40. EVF was driving me crazy.
 
Jay, welcome to the reality of northern Alberta. -40f or Celsius (nearly equivelant) is quite common. and yes we shoot in it.
 
Well it is certainly something i will be looking into more. Glad someone has gotten around to doing this at the very least.

P.S. I am on set here and everyone chuckled at your -40 remark. So thanks for the laugh as well... and yes we know we are a bit crazy up here.
 
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