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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Birger Canon Lens Database

I'm sure Alexander's list references an old Birger lens library, but just an FYI for those who don't know, the manual focus on the 85mm 1.2 works fine with the current firmware.
 
JoshBertrand said:
I'm sure Alexander's list references an old Birger lens library, but just an FYI for those who don't know, the manual focus on the 85mm 1.2 works fine with the current firmware.
Click to expand...

Good to know. I am catching up with all the Briger hoopla a little late, but it would seem that they are starting to ship quite a bit. So I hope this list will be completed soon as more and more people get theirs. This would make for a very nice little thread to be able to check.
 
Here are a couple more lenses that work :

Canon EF 28-135mm 1:3.5-5.6 IS
Canon EF 35-350mm 1:3.5-5.6 L

The 28-135mm, possibly because it is not an L lens is a bit noisy but works otherwise fine.
I can also confirm again that the 85mm 1.2 functions flawlessly and is a dream to work with!

What is the latest on Sigma lenses? Any chance of seeing them work with the mount?
 
Nils J. Nesse said:
Will you test the cheap-but-excellent 85mm f/1.8?
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The Canon 85mm 1.8 works for both aperture and focus. With Impero large rack focuses with this lens are sometimes a little jumpy. Smaller focus changes are smooth... and that's how you'd probably use an 85mm most of the time.

These lenses all work and focus very smoothly with Impero:

Tokina 11-16mm
Canon 24mm 1.4 L
Canon 35mm 1.4 L
Canon 17-55 EF-S 2.8
Canon 70-200 2.8 IS

I'm actually kinda blown away by my first impressions of how smoothly the birger and impero work together. Completely silent and smooth. Optically all those lenses look terrific. I'm curious to the see the knob and lens remapping capablities. I don't believe they are implemented yet as mine don't work.

The Sigma 50mm F/1.4 does not focus with Impero but aperture is fine with Birger.
 
image shift when changing focus direction ?

image shift when changing focus direction ?

Joel Kaye said:
The Canon 85mm 1.8 works for both aperture and focus. With Impero large rack focuses with this lens are sometimes a little jumpy. Smaller focus changes are smooth... and that's how you'd probably use an 85mm most of the time.

These lenses all work and focus very smoothly with Impero:

Tokina 11-16mm
Canon 24mm 1.4 L
Canon 35mm 1.4 L
Canon 17-55 EF-S 2.8
Canon 70-200 2.8 IS

I'm actually kinda blown away by my first impressions of how smoothly the birger and impero work together. Completely silent and smooth. Optically all those lenses look terrific. I'm curious to the see the knob and lens remapping capablities. I don't believe they are implemented yet as mine don't work.

The Sigma 50mm F/1.4 does not focus with Impero but aperture is fine with Birger.
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Joel,

When you say all lenses look 'optically' terrific, can I ask if you notice any image 'shift' when pulling focus and then changing focus direction ? I've not received my Imperio yet, so I've been testing with the Mac app (as and when I get a reliable Bluetooth connection : http://reduser.net/forum/showpost.php?p=423629&postcount=58).
In my case, the 24/1.4 (mk 1 version) the image shifts laterally when changing focus direction. All the other lenses I've tested so far seem fine. Just wondering if it's my lens or something other 24/1.4 owners are observing (please qualify if Mk1 or Mk2 version) ?

Cheers
 
The 85mm F/1.8 works for iris and manual focus. I do not have a controller yet to vouch for that functionality, but the lens calibrates properly so it should be fine. The 85mm 1.2L is the only fully electronic lens, so no other lens should present a manual focusing problem.

I am very happy with my budget Canon prime set:

85mm f/1.8
50mm f/1.2L
35mm f/1.4L
28mm f/1.8
10-22mm f/3.5-4.5

The non 'L' 85mm and 28mm work very well. To be honest the only reason I bought the 35 and 50 in the 'L' series is that the mid range 35mm is junk and the mid range 50mm has a rack focusing issue.

I have .3, .6, and .9 screw on ND filters for these lenses, and a three stage Redrock MatteBox that will hold a Tiffen hot mirror, a .6 hard grad ND, a 1.2 ND, and a linear polo. Works out to about a grand in filters from film tools.

The 10-22mm is so wide at 10mm that it has to be pushed up to the first stage of the matte box to not clip the sides, but there is no bending of vertical lines. Near as I can figure there's dark matter in there using gravity to straighten out the light vectors. It's just that sick.

I wish I had more time to work with it, but I have a film project underway and too many tasks need my attention...

Bob
 
David Nardini said:
In my case, the 24/1.4 (mk 1 version) the image shifts laterally when changing focus direction.
Click to expand...

Weird. I've shot the 24/1.4 mk 1 a lot and never noticed anything like that and no one has ever mentioned it to me when viewing footage. It was the first lens I tested with Impero. I've done a bunch of handheld with it using a RedRock FF where I constantly am working the focus. Either I'm blind to it and it doesn't bother me or your lens is different.

I have seen image shift on a couple of my Nikon lenses - they were very jumpy. If you're talking about something very smooth and subtle perhaps I missed it... but then so would any average viewer.
 
Joel Kaye said:
Weird. I've shot the 24/1.4 mk 1 a lot and never noticed anything like that and no one has ever mentioned it to me when viewing footage. It was the first lens I tested with Impero. I've done a bunch of handheld with it using a RedRock FF where I constantly am working the focus. Either I'm blind to it and it doesn't bother me or your lens is different.

I have seen image shift on a couple of my Nikon lenses - they were very jumpy. If you're talking about something very smooth and subtle perhaps I missed it... but then so would any average viewer.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I guess it must be my lens ... it seems to be the odd one out, all the other Canon glass I have seems fine. I better get Canon to check her out :beer:
 
I have a Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8 LII lens. I've test the Birger with few of these lenses and they are all partially unreliable. The best I can figure is that the power draw on the lens is significant enough that if the RED level is below some threshold, the lens will lose power and fail to operate. Reseating the lens, power-cycling the RED, reconnecting the Birger all seem to make no difference. However, replacing the RED battery with a fresh one seems to do the trick almost every time.

Has anyone else seen this behavior? Is it possible to drive the Birger from the D-TAP, but still get GPIO for remote start/stop from the camera?
 
Kyle Mallory said:
However, replacing the RED battery with a fresh one seems to do the trick almost every time.
Click to expand...

This is a clear indication that your lens is drawing peak current close to the threshold of your red GPIO port. Not all red gpio ports are created equal. As the battery voltage runs down, the current draw increases. Lens library 20A should draw the least power of any we have released. Upgrade if you haven't.

We should have a d-tap option available shortly. I should get to this this week. It is presently the only remaining weekness of the system that I am concerned about. There is a mold that needs to be made, but I am willing to pay to expedite it.

I have a RED battery plate. If this is not what people are using, I need to know this. I do not want to design a connector, and contract a mold, only to find out that we have created something that is not universal. Any manufacturers that we should be talking to about getting some sample battery plates from?
 
Erik Widding said:
This is a clear indication that your lens is drawing peak current close to the threshold of your red GPIO port. Not all red gpio ports are created equal. As the battery voltage runs down, the current draw increases. Lens library 20A should draw the least power of any we have released. Upgrade if you haven't.

We should have a d-tap option available shortly. I should get to this this week. It is presently the only remaining weekness of the system that I am concerned about. There is a mold that needs to be made, but I am willing to pay to expedite it.

I have a RED battery plate. If this is not what people are using, I need to know this. I do not want to design a connector, and contract a mold, only to find out that we have created something that is not universal. Any manufacturers that we should be talking to about getting some sample battery plates from?
Click to expand...

Our 70-200 f2.8L, which was not working with 19x, y or z is working fine with 20a.
 
Erik Widding said:
This is a clear indication that your lens is drawing peak current close to the threshold of your red GPIO port. Not all red gpio ports are created equal. As the battery voltage runs down, the current draw increases. Lens library 20A should draw the least power of any we have released. Upgrade if you haven't.

We should have a d-tap option available shortly. I should get to this this week. It is presently the only remaining weekness of the system that I am concerned about. There is a mold that needs to be made, but I am willing to pay to expedite it.

I have a RED battery plate. If this is not what people are using, I need to know this. I do not want to design a connector, and contract a mold, only to find out that we have created something that is not universal. Any manufacturers that we should be talking to about getting some sample battery plates from?
Click to expand...


Eric, D-tap option sounds like a great idea and very worthwhile. I'm using a red battery plate. While some may use other plates, I would think a significant number of others would be using the Red plate, as well.
 
Erik Widding said:
This is a clear indication that your lens is drawing peak current close to the threshold of your red GPIO port. Not all red gpio ports are created equal. As the battery voltage runs down, the current draw increases. Lens library 20A should draw the least power of any we have released. Upgrade if you haven't.

We should have a d-tap option available shortly. I should get to this this week. It is presently the only remaining weekness of the system that I am concerned about. There is a mold that needs to be made, but I am willing to pay to expedite it.

I have a RED battery plate. If this is not what people are using, I need to know this. I do not want to design a connector, and contract a mold, only to find out that we have created something that is not universal. Any manufacturers that we should be talking to about getting some sample battery plates from?
Click to expand...

Can't you just buy the d-tap connectors? - I know I have seen them pretty reasonable somewhere. I think Anton-Bauer is the inventor of the D-tap

Here is the product page for a quote:

http://www.antonbauer.com/Products/P-TapkitMALE



I can send you a d-connector on a cable to experiment with if you need it, as well as an anton-bauer plate which is the other major type of battery plate that has the d-tap.
 
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