Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

"Cinematizing" Still lenses

Jon Ellison

Banned
Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
104
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
Minneapolis
I'm sorry if this has been asked before, but I haven't been able to find it. As lenses go, I'm starting from scratch for the RED. My plan is to buy a few still lenses, and have gotten some great recommendations from threads like this http://reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24130&highlight=lens+RED .

What I'd like to know is where I can buy the lenses from, or send them to have gears installed and iris stops removed... or is this something I can do myself?

Will this prevent me from using them (and working properly) on my Nikon body?

thanks!
 
Will this prevent me from using them (and working properly) on my Nikon body?

Just thought I should chime in here. I wouldn't want anyone buying our lenses without knowing all the details.
I have found one issue with using the ZF lenses on a Nikon camera after being modified.
You Nikon shooters should know what I'm talking about here.
There is a meter coupling lever that travels around the circumference of the cameras mount.
This butts up against a tab on the aperture ring of lenses to tell the camera what f-stop you are at.
The coupling lever is fairly heavily spring loaded.
The spring load of the coupling lever will push against the tab on the lenses.
Once the ZF lenses have been de-clicked, the aperture ring is much more free to move around.
We use a fairly heavy Zeiss grease to lubricate the aperture ring, but even the heaviest grease will creep over time.
I haven't found this to be much of a problem at the faster apertures.
But if you are at f22, it will creep back towards f2 very slowly.
Of course, this isn't an issue on the RED camera as there is no such part on the camera mount.
I hope this makes sense to you Nikon shooters. I can provide pictures of this whole process if anyone would like.
 
And those of you familiar with the Cooke 20-100 know that this problem is not limited to converted still lenses... although the problem of iris creep on that lens can be fixed for a long while.
As an AC, I would have always taped off the stuff wherever practical (not always so on a small prime lens)
Also, with Red and other digital cameras, exposure change should be pretty obvious if everyone's paying attention.
I would not worry too much, though it is very nice and fair for Matthew to mention this.
Cheers,
Harry
 
Back
Top