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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

The $10 battery hot swap solution

Clint Johnson

Clint Johnson

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In an attempt to save time on set, I got to thinking about the D-Taps on the battery plate. They are simply hard wired in line and so we got a D-Tap to D-Tap cable made and (using a meter of course) we tested the output from the battery cable while we swapped batteries- always keeping one of the plates occupied. The output stayed stable and unchanging.

Seeings how the multimeter agreed with my electrical speculations, we powered up the Red camera and started swapping batteries.

No muss, no fuss, the Red stayed powered up through the battery changes. So it looks like I'll be able to keep the camera up through the day by using a Red Battery Belt Clip and a 4 foot D-Tap to D-Tap cable for swapping batteries out.

This leaves me with two questions, one from me: The output of the power cable remained stable while swapping batteries so I can't see where the Red would have a problem with it but can anyone tell me if they can think of ANY repercussions to this?

The second is from one of the guys I'm working with: Is the D-Tap robust enough to power the camera through? He is looking at using a block battery on a dolly and was wondering if it was a viable option for getting power to the camera? To my way of thinking, it should be able to work through this but it won't have the 12C bus connection... but is that a problem other than not having the percentage battery power remaining?

In my mind, the physical robustness of the D-Tap is questionable for full time powering of the camera but I feel comfortable to use it while switching batteries with the camera idling.
 
hmmm. The only problem I can think if is that some battery plates have a 5amp fuse inline to the Dtap, and most of the Dtaps I know of are rated for a 60W - 80W max draw (the red pulls 90ish). I wouldn't power the camera for any long amount of time with it. It's just not what it's made for.

As far as your buddies block battery, why not just build a 4pin xlr to Lemo Red power cable. The specs are in the manual and it's pretty straight forward.
 
Mike Prevette said:
hmmm. The only problem I can think if is that some battery plates have a 5amp fuse inline to the Dtap, and most of the Dtaps I know of are rated for a 60W - 80W max draw (the red pulls 90ish). I wouldn't power the camera for any long amount of time with it. It's just not what it's made for.

As far as your buddies block battery, why not just build a 4pin xlr to Lemo Red power cable. The specs are in the manual and it's pretty straight forward.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I figured that I wouldn't want to try and capture anything with the camera while swapping this way. I also didn't test it loaded up with the LCD, EVF and Red Drive drawing power and that might have it over draw. Popping a monitor out for a couple seconds still saves time over a typical battery swap.

I did point out that the relevant specs are available to build a proper cable- but he wanted the question asked none the less, so there it was.
 
spotshooter said:
This is a $170.00 solution which I highly endorse:

http://www.batteries4broadcast.com/extras_cart.htm

scroll to the bottom of the page and look for GT-TS

Chris Bell
Click to expand...

Yes there are better solutions out there, I was just pointing out what appears to be a workable solution for negligible dollars. No doubt this information would have been more valuable if I had thought of it a few months back though.
 
D-tap connectors are $25 a piece. I'd recommend high-amperage zip cord.

I guess the secret's out. :) A P-tap to P-tap cable works like a charm... I've got one sitting in my kit right now. Just make sure your polarity is correct or you'll fry the power board.
 
works great, don't put it in with the wrong polarity. i call it the dan ming cable...those of you who know him will know why.
 
Yeah, I just got a call from Tony who also school me on the actual cost of the thing since he is the one who got it made up. So it was more the $80 solution than the $10 solution- my bad.

Still, we have a couple battery plates already and I have another coming on the belt clip that I am getting to use on my Glidecam V-20 - hey, don't tease, I know it isn't a Steadicam or Actioncam but it is a *****cam and one that I got for about 25% the cost even an Actioncam... uh... where was I? Oh yeah, we have a few battery plates around so the $80 for the cable is still a good piece of kit to have.
 
Brook Willard said:
D-tap connectors are $25 a piece. I'd recommend high-amperage zip cord.

I guess the secret's out. :) A P-tap to P-tap cable works like a charm... I've got one sitting in my kit right now. Just make sure your polarity is correct or you'll fry the power board.
Click to expand...
Brook do you know where we can buy these cables, or anyone reliable that can make them up?
 
The Power Tap is not technically designed to power the camera, but will work for short temporary stints as hot swap on the RED plate. I feel this would be a poor habit to adopt to power the camera this way, mainly due to the lack of lockability. What would you have to keep the power tap secured? I've seen many a shot lost due to someone trying to save a few bucks here and there.


Dino, Please tell Dan Ming I said hello.
 
Pana-tech said:
The Power Tap is not technically designed to power the camera, but will work for short temporary stints as hot swap on the RED plate. I feel this would be a poor habit to adopt to power the camera this way, mainly due to the lack of lockability. What would you have to keep the power tap secured? I've seen many a shot lost due to someone trying to save a few bucks here and there.
Click to expand...

Yup, I'll only be using this to keep the camera idling while I swap batteries. We're also looking at putting an inline switch so that the circuit isn't closed until after the DTap is plugged in and the switch thrown- just in case there is some arcing going on.
 
dmeledon said:
Yup, theatrical lighting technicians call these male-male creations "suicide cables." They tend to be born in conjunction with matching female-female "DP cables" during the later hours of long, extension cable wiring, sessions.
Click to expand...

"widowmakers" out here, although I suppose that's sexist...
 
Clint Johnson said:
I am getting to use on my Glidecam V-20 - hey, don't tease
Click to expand...

You're flying in style compared to me. I'm modifying a Magiqcam to work with RED. It was only $1800 so if it works it'll be a coup. Seemed to get it balanced last night. Later today I'll do some tests. I swear I've got the ultimate beer budget RED.
 
I'm scraping the bottom of the bucket compared to even joelnet, I have an old hollywood lite stabilizer that nowadays is called the varizoom flowcam gt. I got it used for $1500. In my day we didn't have no fancy steadicams we just had an old dog's head to play with.
 
Clint Johnson said:
Yup, I'll only be using this to keep the camera idling while I swap batteries. We're also looking at putting an inline switch so that the circuit isn't closed until after the DTap is plugged in and the switch thrown- just in case there is some arcing going on.
Click to expand...

Good idea. This also gives you a few seconds to make sure the polarity is correct on both ends before you flip the switch.

Pana-tech said:
The Power Tap is not technically designed to power the camera, but will work for short temporary stints as hot swap on the RED plate.
Click to expand...

Pana-tech, would you be interested in making one of these male-to-male DTap cables with a switch in the middle?

Is this something anyone else would be interested in?
 
I recently Had Birns and Sawyer make one for me, $105.

I could have made it myself, very easily. but the labor was only $20 anyway.
 
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