Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

Log in
  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Post B16 comments here...

Not really an issue since it doesn't affect the functionality of anything, but REDAlert still says v3.32 ALPHA in the upper left hand corner. Sorry, I know that it's insignificant. Just making an observation.
 
sorry, cant do that right now, on set still and it is the end of the day,going through the "shoot 40 %" of the day in the last half hour before wrap" syndrome..looking forward to sitting here for 3 hours off loading.
 
The hot pixels from the timelapse are caused from the slow shutter speed. 1/12 and slower. I don't know why but just change your shutter speed to 1/12 or faster and the white pixels will disapear. I had this same problem in Build 15.
 
Okay. When I installed the new build 15 before 16, the camera wouldn't boot for a while. Finally got it to start the build 16 upgrade. Then the LCD went off. It's been about 7 minutes and the rear LCD just says Upgrading... I think in a minute or so I'll have to try and shut it down. Bummer. Should I be really concerned? Best course of action?

EDIT: Nothing was happening so I shut it down. Boot up again. Trying the upgrade again.

Hope 16 fixes all these booting wooes I've been having!

EDIT 2: Upgrade complete... booted first time... things are LOOKING GOOD!
 
Maximizing Image Quality

Maximizing Image Quality

The hot pixels from the timelapse are caused from the slow shutter speed.
Click to expand...

If you are doing extended exposure times - below 1/4 sec - the camera can benefit from a new Black Shading Calibration at that exposure. i.e set the exposure you expect to use in timelapse, then do a Black Shading.

If you do this, remember to repeat the process when you go back to the relatively shorter exposure times.
 
Stuart English said:
If you are doing extended exposure times - below 1/4 sec - the camera can benefit from a new Black Shading Calibration at that exposure. i.e set the exposure you expect to use in timelapse, then do a Black Shading.

If you do this, remember to repeat the process when you go back to the relatively shorter exposure times.
Click to expand...

Interesting, thanks for that tip Stuart
 
Wow! I suspect i was probably doing something wrong before, but I couldn't shoot anything over ASA 320 without tons of noise, and icky vertical blue lines (yes I did the black shade). I just shot using available light from a different room and could see pretty well in 320, then cranked it up to 2000 (again, couldn't shoot 500 in build 15 without disgusting artifacts) and the shot was down right usable!

Amazing! Thank you so much guys!

One thing... I'm intrigued by the new exposure assist, but it's not doing anything for me. Under or over expose, the squares look no different :(
 
Stuart English said:
If you are doing extended exposure times - below 1/4 sec - the camera can benefit from a new Black Shading Calibration at that exposure. i.e set the exposure you expect to use in timelapse, then do a Black Shading.

If you do this, remember to repeat the process when you go back to the relatively shorter exposure times.
Click to expand...

great tip !!
I remember having to do that with my old digital back.
Aloha
-A
 
B16 looks great!
Re-booting the camera after re-assigning ABC was required to function and display correctly. Not a big deal though.
The customizable key configurations allow much much faster changes and less time with the menus and joystick...which is real nice.

A user assigned key can be set to:
User 1 for focus assist/pixel2pixel zoom
User 2 assigned to false color (works well combined with User 1 simultaneously)
The LCD (top left) button assigned to waveform
 
That scale lets you visually see what represents white white and black black (and everything inbetween) in terms of monitor lighting conditions ( i.e, when you are in the bright sun) ... sort of like purge bars.. it can help in some situations, but its not something that most of you will want to leave on all the time ( although in the beta build there is no off yet )
 
Jarred Land said:
That scale lets you visually see what represents white white and black black (and everything inbetween) in terms of monitor lighting conditions ( i.e, when you are in the bright sun) ... sort of like purge bars.. it can help in some situations, but its not something that most of you will want to leave on all the time ( although in the beta build there is no off yet )
Click to expand...

why would you want to turn them off? it's just empty space on the side of the monitor right?
 
Brandon said:
why would you want to turn them off? it's just empty space on the side of the monitor right?
Click to expand...

I'm guessing it's less distraction. Brian, is there pixel 2 pixel or is it the 2x zoom we've had in previous builds?
 
It appears to be 2x not a full pixel to pixel. But toggling between focus assist, magnify, waveform and false color is really fast !

Not a bug, but I noticed viewing the on-board LCD in RedSpace displays a bit more noise than the Rec709 setting...more of an FYI.
But image viewed in Redspace mode is "brighter" (than Rec709) and seems to more accurately reflect Tstop and Iso settings.
 
Stuart English said:
If you are doing extended exposure times - below 1/4 sec - the camera can benefit from a new Black Shading Calibration at that exposure. i.e set the exposure you expect to use in timelapse, then do a Black Shading.

If you do this, remember to repeat the process when you go back to the relatively shorter exposure times.
Click to expand...

Dose it have any negative affect on the camera to Black balance often if you do these shots frequentley.
 
cinepost35 said:
Dose it have any negative affect on the camera to Black balance often if you do these shots frequentley.
Click to expand...

No. Only negative is the time it takes to do it.

Jim
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top