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***some Canon Glass Suggestions***

Ketch Rossi

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Hi guys,

as a Canon user for very many years, I have had and used any camera and lens Canon has produced in the past twenty years, so I like to share my opinion on its Glass, the EOS series, in the hope that some of you will find such info helpful in some way, with your upcoming purchases.

Please note that I'm not that kind of reviewer that takes tone of photos in a clinical environment, put each lens to the exact same tests, shoot them all at each individual stop increase ETC. "I DON'T DO THAT" What I do is simply shoot each lens in a day to day use and look at the results, if I'm impressed with it, I'll keep it and if not I'll sale it and never suggested to anyone. At times I did however come across great lenses that I sold anyway just to upgrade to the latest version or moved up to L glass, or simply moved away from ZOOM all together and went with Primes.


Anyway below I'll list the lenses in which I had personal and suffice experience to share in off info to let any one here have something to go with when making their purchasing decisions.


I strongly suggest that every one uses permanently mounted ***UV HAZE*** filters screw in to your lenses strong and well fit, as not only will be a great protection fro your glass but also in some L series glass will make the lens fully Weather Resistance. Some don't agree to have an extra glass in front of your lens, but you do must have it on, the focusing moves the elements in and out dust can get in your lens and cause expensive repairs and cleanings in Labs. Also it is much easier to clean a flat filter then it is a curved Glass.



***ZOOMS***

EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM FILTER SIZE: 77mm $689

This is the widest angle lens that Canon offers, they are not compatible with cameras such as the 5D and all the 1D series body, but they are compatible with the Birger mount for RED, so this little Zoom is the widest as you can get on RED/BIRGER. Quality of the build it is not up to the L glass series standard, but it is still a very well build lens, image quality does however not match that of the EF 14mm f/2.8L II (I know not fair to compare with Primes) but even when compared against the EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II.

That said this little one is the widest focal you can get from Canon on your RED, and if 16 or even 14mm it is not wide in off then by all means go with the 10-22, it will not disappoint you, just will not give you the same L glass quality, but for the price it is a very good compromise.



EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM FILTER SIZE: 77mm $999

This Zoom is a great one not only because of its speed but because of both build quality and especially the fact that busts the IS (image stabilization system) and a large front element of 77mm just like the famous 70-200.

To take notice that the IS system has not as yet been tested on RED/BIRGER, therefore purchasing this lens only because of the IS would be a mistake, as for less money you can buy the 17-40L, of much higher image quality.



EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM FILTER SIZE: 82mm $1,400

This lens has been upgraded from the MKI with great results, ***(DON'T GET THE MKI)*** reducing CA and vignetting as well as implementing Flair resistance, and giving this lens also Weather Resistance, at 82mm the front element is the largest of the L series with a front screw in thread for filters, build extremely well and very solid, this Zoom represents a new era in both Zooms and L glass capabilities, surpassing in quality the 24mm L prime, and getting so close to the 14mm L prime and the 35mm L prime, that only a specific lab test or a very well trained eye would see a difference in image quality. However it needs to be noted that the 35mm L prime bust a speed advantage of f/1.4, breathing test on this zoom (as well as in any zoom) has not been tested but this one it is known to perform extremely well on that regard.

EF 17-40mm f/4L USM FILTER SIZE: 77mm $679

This lens is a fantastic lens, and a great deal as well, if in a budget this lens can replace any of the above zooms, any day any time, extremely sharp, and likely the sharpest of the bunch, will provide great images at a great value, but you do go to f/4, so being slower and with no IS, lighting considerations must be kept in mind when purchasing a slower lens.


EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM FILTER SIZE: 77mm $1,139

This lens is no doubt one of the most popular Zooms in its range, extremely sharp, and with a beautiful rendition of colors, be aware however that this Zoom those extend quite a bit when zooming, and there fore in order to be used with an MB on the RED, the HOOD must be cut in a even circular way and kept on as if was a HUGE step up/down ring. Past that little issue this is a great choice as a zoom hands down, among the best, and considering its range it is a must have for Zooms users. Build off course is excellent, resistance to flair is some what not as good as the 16-35 II but you are unlikely to ever used with out a hood or an MB, and you shouldn't.



EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM FILTER SIZE: 77mm $1,059

This lens is a great choice and it can be a very economic one when considering the range of the Zoom, and the fact that has IS (if will work as we hope with Birger) will allow to better the image considering that this is not a fast lens. Image quality is not at the same level of the 17-40, 16-35 II, but again for the range the compromise of image quality and speed it can be a good choice.


EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM FILTER SIZE: 67mm $1,059

This lens is a great choice, but as it is slow and the IS unproven it would be much better choice to go with the:

EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM FILTER SIZE: 77mm $1,140

This lens is fast, very well build, and very sharp, even sharper then the IS big brother version, not by much but again under lab tests has shown that it has the edge over the the IS. Now if you can spend the extra money then by all means do get the:

EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM FILTER SIZE: 77mm $1,699

This lens is of great build, Weather resistant and it is not the most popular zoom for nothing, I found this to be the absolute must have, as it is as sharp as it can get in its Zoom range, especially when making use of the IS, also the fact that at his range it still has both Inner focus and Inner zooming, it will make the most desirable lens for RED/BIRGER, a bit heavy but no so bad. If you can afford it please don't go with any other 70-200, you will enjoy this one both on your Canon camera and on RED, if the IS does in deed work well on Birger, then this one will shine like no other.



*As far as ZOOMs I have not shot with any other and can't say of them, but I wouldn't use anything else besides of what I listed above, when all possible avoid slower the f2.8 on any lens, it will save you money and time in lighting set ups, and no matter what this are Still lenses and don't always have the edge when shot wide open.*


I hope that some of this info will serve you guys well and I will answer any questions to the best of my knowledge with great pleasure in trying and bring a little support to those that needed.



:excl: ***GO TO THE OTHER POST, PART 2 FOR PRIMES***:excl: HERE: http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10397


*Photos will come soon*

Ciao
 
Thank you Ketch, this will be something of a Bible to me as I fill out my Canon lens kit. I spoke with Birger today and all seems hopeful there with the all but imminent shipping of the mount. Your work on all of this is very much appreciated.
 
Ketch,

Thanks for that thorough info on these Canon lenses, and your Part 2 post too...much appreciated!

I own a Canon FD 150-600 f/5.6L zoom, which I've been using for sports and nature shooting with my REDs. I've always liked Canon glass - especially L series. I have a few Canon DSLRs and a pretty good kit of Canon glass.

Ciao
 
Grazie Ketch! So much appreciated.

Salve,
Emanuel :-)
 
hey ketch and fellow canon lens owners. i recently got canon's 24-70L and 70-200L IS zooms. i'm happy with them, but sometimes when i look down into the lens elements, i see little specks of dust. nothing that effects the picture so far, that I can tell, but it still bothers me. is this normal? will it get worse? my canon 100 2.0 has a big speck that i deal with... but can i get it cleaned out and approximately how much does that go for? thanks!
 
Hi jing,

this is one of the reasons why a UV HAZE filter should be kept on at all times, never to be removed, and must be very tight.

Dust particles are little tiny suckers that do get every were, reason for which also some prefer zooms, as to limit lens changes in dusty environments, as well as for their flexibility obviously.

You must not try to open the lens up your self, you will no doubt damage any of the elements, you must take the lens to a lab in your area for internal cleaning , after that make sure to buy filters, an other safe practice is that of blowing both sensor and lens before each lens is put on to the camera.


Ciao
 
From what I've been told, dust in the lens does not dramatically impact the picture (don't know if I believe it yet, but that's the rumor). Also, although a front filter may aid in preventing dust, some lenses can also get dust inside by way of the rear element, or also dust can work it's way in through the focus/zoom dials. I tend to use cheap lenses though, perhaps the 'L' lenses are better sealed.

I'm one that doesn't like to put a UV filter over the glass. I'll put it on when I'm shooting in sandy or wet conditions, but otherwise the filter stays in the bag.

If I knew I was going to shoot a major project I would either get the lenses professionally cleaned just before the project (if they really needed it), or more likely I would try to find the money to buy a duplicate set of my favorite lenses so that I could have one set to use as casual lenses and the other pristine set for the pro shoots. The second set also acts as a backup solution in case one of the lenses goes kaput during a shoot. If you're tight on money, and still quality conscious, use the UV filter most of the time then consider taking it off for the pro shoots.

I've shot a lot of pictures, and the only significant image degradation came from massive hairs and smudges on the lens (stuff kicked up while photographing in rougher environments) or more likely some sort of gunk on the sensor during a lens change. Either one can be cleaned by your own means prior to a shoot, if you take care in the process. Air-rocket the sensor to clean it if possible, as physical contact cleaning is always a bit risky.
 
thanks ketch. i always use b&w uv filters. i do it to protect the glass. good to know it helps with dust too. :)
 
You are most welcome guys.


Lowkus, the practice of using UV HAZE filters it is in fact a common practice among all my fellow Pro photographers, many of which are Master of Light and Masters of Print, there is never a free dust or free of any kind of pollution in he air, were you can afford to use expensive gear out of a studio environment W/O protective filters.

When you se good filters such as B+W, and use the Slim, Ultra tin ones on the Wide Angle range as to eliminate Vignetting, the image quality does not suffer from the adding of the extra glass, but your lenses will in deed suffer from the elements when a filter is not in place.


Good lenses, and most especially the newest, and off course the L series, have a very tight build, and while dust particles and humidity can in deed enter from the rear element,, it is very doubtful that they will make their way in to the lens via he focus gear, however it is, in some lenses, easier to get true from the zooming mechanism.

At last every photographer, and especially Pro's, follow their experience for dictating what to do with their gear, this is accomplished not by only taking some one else advise, like my in this case, but via trail and error, shoot after shoot, gear after gear, location after location, test after test, and believe me that when you are making up to $10,000 per assignment, you do want to make sure that not only you know your S#$@ but that you know it at the its best and in all angles and scenarios, as to apply the best solution to each Shoot.

Ciao
 
hey ketch and fellow canon lens owners. i recently got canon's 24-70L and 70-200L IS zooms. i'm happy with them, but sometimes when i look down into the lens elements, i see little specks of dust. nothing that effects the picture so far, that I can tell, but it still bothers me. is this normal? will it get worse? my canon 100 2.0 has a big speck that i deal with... but can i get it cleaned out and approximately how much does that go for? thanks!

Were they new, if they were I would have Canon clean them under warranty. The L series lenses are supposed to be sealed - one of the features of L.
 
Were they new, if they were I would have Canon clean them under warranty. The L series lenses are supposed to be sealed - one of the features of L.


You are correct Aqua, but the lens is truly sealed only when a "Filter" is in place, as the front element it is not sealed as well as the rear element, each get completely sealed when mounted, on the 1D bodies, as of now the only Canon Bodies to be Sealed, so when the Sealed lens is mounted on to the camera then the rear element will remain sealed as well, as for the front element to be sealed, again a filter must be in place at all times, and now with the new MK III bodies and MK II 580EX flashes even the flash units are sealed when lock in place.

This is the reason why I stress the point of using filters at all times, just get good ones, as the cheap ones will tend to bring imperfections in to your photos, and with the 16-35 and 17-40, a Slim, Ultra Thin filter is a must as to avoid vignetting in the wide angle shots.

Ciao
 
Ketch-
How much light is generally lost with your UV haze filters?
 
Ketch-
How much light is generally lost with your UV haze filters?

Hey Harmonica,

UV, HAZE and UV HAZE as they have clear glass coating they have "ZERO" f-stop light loss.


While the popular WARM 812 and WARM UV have about 1/3 f-stop light loss.


And the LINEAR POLARIZER, CIRCULAR POLARIZER, WARM POLARIZER AND THE MOOSE POLARIZER, this all have 2 f-stop of light loss.


Ciao
 
Hey Harmonica,

UV, HAZE and UV HAZE as they have clear glass coating they have "ZERO" f-stop light loss.


While the popular WARM 812 and WARM UV have about 1/3 f-stop light loss.


And the LINEAR POLARIZER, CIRCULAR POLARIZER, WARM POLARIZER AND THE MOOSE POLARIZER, this all have 2 f-stop of light loss.


Ciao

Although I'm still curious to know just how much "zero" really is, I think you may have sold me on your UV haze filters! Thanks.
 
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