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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Image stabilization

Nalu,

Short of using a stabilization system, smooth hand held and shoulder held use of cameras has a lot to do with balancing the rig. If the center of balance of the rig is directly over your shoulder top, and you use a solid 3-point hold (shoulder, right hand on lens servo grip, left hand on lens barrel or follow focus), you can stabilize shoulder held shots significantly. You’re almost always using a viewfinder (with left eye open to see obstacles), but occasionally using an LCD. Some shoulder braces can be adjusted forward and backward to compensate for an imbalance in the centerpoint of balance for the rig. This is especially helpful when you change out lenses regularly, and they are of different weights. It Looks like the RED Rail shoulder brace will have forward/backward adjustment capability, so that will help in balancing the rig.

For hand held high, low, and away from your body, the starting point is to grab the camera at it's center of balance. Keep your elbow bent to take up shock as you move (same as knees when skiing or surfing). Practice slow, smooth peds, pans dollies, walking, and tracking hand held. You’re always using an LCD for this, with a shade screen when stray light is a problem. It’s also usually in brighter light, so aperture is stopped down, DOF is then deeper, and focus is easier.

I think good shoulder held and hand held shooting starts with physical fitness. Your body is the tripod. The better condition you're in, and the more you're used to body motions, the better chance you have to get smooth camera movements. When people watch me doing shoulder and hand held camera work for action sports and adventure travel, I often get comments from them like: "It looked like you were doing Tai Chi". In essence it is like doing Tai Chi - but while suspending an object that sometimes weighs as much as 30 pounds! If you're in good condition, and practice camera movements, you'll find that you only need a stabilization unit on the most demanding of shot sequences.

Throughout my career I've done a ton of hand held and shoulder held work for various networks (ESPN, Fox Sports, OLN, NBC - 12 networks in all) - usually with big, heavy rigs, but occasionally with mid-sized rigs.

When I shoot out of planes and copters it is usually with a gyro system or stabilized lens, and a solid shoulder/waist harness.
 
great post Gibby and couldn't agree more - a balanced rig and your own strength/fitness are particularly important - I can certainly tell when editing what shots were taken at the end of a long day!!

I'd be particularly interested in what gyro systems and/or image stabiliser you think will work well with RED and the RED zoom for shooting 4K from choppers.
I know it's ideal to have a fix wescam or maohead kind of system, but I'm starting to get some work shooting yacht racing from the air and boats, where you just grab your camera and hang out of the chopper for an hour or two.
The Canon attachment stabiliser has been great but only attaches to specific lenses.

What do you seen as some of the possible solutions??
(that don't cost more that a RED setup :eek: )

thanks
 
I have some input on that, but I'm headed out of my office for the rest of the evening (late for a meeting). I'll post some ideas on that tomorrow...

Aloha braddah!
 
Gibby great post on hand held.

One advantage of the RED camera is the ability to change lengths. On a windy day with a steadi. One of the things to do is move the monitor and batts as far out from the post as you can and still keep dynamic balance. Another is to attach. Antlers which are long rods with weights on the end attached usually to the top of the camera, sticking out sideways. another is to lengthen the post. all these have in common they move the center of mass away from the gymbal (the main support)

Now most cameras are just the length they are and give the stability thru inertia for that length. Longer cameras are more stabile than shorter(given you can balance the shoulder pad) same as the Steadi Sled above!

Now the RED Camera will allow you to use the RED rail to elongate the camera. This is going to be seriously cool for hand held as it will allow you to adjust the stability gained from mass, away from the support point. ie lenses matte boxes at one end and moving batts/diskarray back at the other.
 
I'd be particularly interested in what gyro systems and/or image stabiliser you think will work well with RED and the RED zoom for shooting 4K from choppers.
I know it's ideal to have a fix wescam or maohead kind of system, but I'm starting to get some work shooting yacht racing from the air and boats, where you just grab your camera and hang out of the chopper for an hour or two.
The Canon attachment stabiliser has been great but only attaches to specific lenses.

What do you seen as some of the possible solutions??
(that don't cost more that a RED setup :eek: )

thanks

When I was the combination director/cinematographer for the ESPN series Hawaiian Sports Adventure in 1996 and 1997 (20 programs), I shot everything you could imagine in the islands – on land, in the water, and in the air. Specifically aerials, I shot repeatedly on all the islands (except Niihau) via helicopter. I’d always looked for specific models of copter that had large, removable doors, and solid skids to stand on. At the time I was using a Betacam (about 24 pounds). We would put me in a helmet with voice-activated intercom to the pilot, with my assistant in the front seat also on helmet/intercom. With the door removed, we would rig a combo waist/shoulder harness for me. I’d wear nice sticky sole shoes to grip the skid. When shooting, I’d be using the camera shoulder held, with a good wide-angle lens (with 2x). If the air was relatively smooth, I could often get by without any gyro stabilization unit at all. I learned how to get as smooth a shot as possible without a gyro – pure shoulder held. We’d shoot aerials of surfers dropping into huge waves, fly right along the edge of the pali, skim the waves along the coast, shoot side-by aerials of hang gliders, and cover outrigger races and triathlon competitions from the side and above while crabbing along sideways. Fun stuff! I also shot from a helicopter several times for sailboarding races in the Caribbean, and snowboarding on the mainland.

The best aerial shots possible are with a Wescam – but that is a $1 million piece of equipment (not accessible for the budget of most productions). An affordable gyro option that is available to almost everyone is to buy or rent on a per project basis, is a gyro stabilization unit like those made by Kenyon Labs. They’re small units that are effective. I think a Kenyon Gyro would work real well with a RED One camera system. Hopefully there are Kenyon Gyro units for rent in Honolulu. If not, you may want to purchase your own if you’ll use one a lot…

Here’s some links for some info:

Good overview of gyro-stabilization units: http://www.camerasystems.com/gyrostabilization.htm

Kenyon Labs Gyros: http://www.ken-lab.com/stabilizers.html

Aloha Bra! (Jarred, we need a shaka emoticon!!)
 
(edited) We’d shoot aerials of surfers dropping into huge waves, fly right along the edge of the pali, skim the waves along the coast, shoot side-by aerials of hang gliders, and cover outrigger races and triathlon competitions from the side and above while crabbing along sideways. Fun stuff! I also shot from a helicopter several times for sailboarding races in the Caribbean, and snowboarding on the mainland.
Sounds like you are going to be busy doing it all over again with the RED.
We are going to be transferring some 16MM to HD using a Cintel URSA Y-Front 4:4:4 Component Digital Telecine. Sports shooter, all big wave stuff.
This same shooter will be using our RED when we get it...
Now comparing the transferred 16MM to RED will be very interesting!
 
I've just tried out Motion 3, and to my great surprise the Image Stabilization works extremely well. I have a few shots, from an HDV camera, where we simulated a dolly by walking forwards with a handheld camera. As you can imagine, there was that subtle wobble. Not a handheld look, as such, but certainly some movement. In a matter of seconds, Motion 3 got rid of that, and made these shots look like perfectly smooth dolly shots. Better than any other software I've tried, for this sort of thing. Of course, the frame has to be zoomed and rotated for this to work well, which means the HDV comes out a bit worse for wear. But if you have a beautiful 4K shot, with a bit too much wobble, I bet Motion 3 will clear it out without any hassle, still allowing a 2K finish after all the zooming and cropping.
 
Hi,

Not sure about FCP but after effects and any effects programme will have tracking software. You will always loose resoloution, however starting with a 4k image will help.

Stephen

Yeah you can do this in Motion well, and After Effects does it really well, too. It won't lose you much resolution usually, depending on how shaky things were, but we had some shaky hand-held shots in the project we shot before this last one and we were able to eliminate the shakiness entirely without losing more than about 5% of the quality, which was totally acceptable. It wasn't even noticeable.
 
If you get into a situation where you know you will need to use image stabilization in post, like a car mount, then it might be preferable to shoot straight raw off the optical port. You'll have extra pixels on the edges that can be used to stabilize the image without forcing you to enlarge it slightly. Another trick when you are running into these problems is to tighten up the shutter speed. Programs that stabilize the image in post (such as the SmoothCam node in Shake) can do a very good job of removing shake from the image, but they can't remove motion blur caused by the shake. A tight shutter can eleviate that problem.

That's my two cents.

IBloom
 
Final Cut Pro 6's Smoothcam filter is pretty phenomenal. The way Apple implemented that feature inside FCP is genius and it's very, very easy to use. I love it!

I would agree on lens stabilization before it reaches the CMOS sensor. Stabilizing in post should be avoided at all cost.
 
Will RED have shaka? stay tuned...

Will RED have shaka? stay tuned...

I second that on the shaka.

_ooo/ \ooo/ \ooo_

Welcome back Gibby, I've been missing your pearls of wisdom recently.

Aloha,

Keith
 
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