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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

New to the world of R3D and looking for advice..

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Hi,

We are in pre-production for a children's show for HD output, 1080P. We currently have a Panasonic AF101 shooting 1080, with external recorder, which can achieve approximately 75% of the shots we would like. However we think a RED can facilitate some of the moving shots we would otherwise find very difficult, in the context of this project.



The show involves small aliens, approximately 20cm tall (approx. 1:6 scale compared to humans), with action taking place on spaceships and on earth. We are using real puppets for the characters - actual size, i.e. 20cm tall, using chroma keying rods for their motor movements, e.g. walking, arm moves, and then adding animation details, e.g. speaking mouths, facial expressions, finger movements, in post.



We then also have a number of miniature sets and miniature ships, of varying scales. Depending on the shot, we will either shoot the characters against blue screen and composite in, or actually puppeteer them in the set.



Specifically then, the reasons we are considering a RED:




1. Simulate camera motion in post -

A large proportion of shots involves several of the characters being composited into a set / scene. Because we can only puppeteer / make one character move at a time, primarily using chroma keying rods attached to the characters, we’d have to make multiple passes, one for each character to make the final composition. If we don’t want any camera motion in the shot, this is no problem, we just use the standard 1080P camera in a fixed position and capture the several takes. However if we want any pans or zooms, because the camera isn’t motorized, we can’t replicate the movement exactly, and hence we can’t make the composition. So the 4k would allow us to generate the moving 1080 image from within the stationery 4k space. This movement is important to us simply because we want to be able to maximize the cinematic value of the show.


2. Easier to handle motion in post than camera side -

Even though we can execute some of the shots with the AF101, because the characters are approximately 1:6 scale any unevenness in camera motion gets exaggerated. So if we wanted to zoom, pan or rack between two characters it would seem, we’re thinking, easier to add that motion in post (maybe racking camera side). One drawback is perhaps the loss of parallax, but we’d mix it up where we can with actual dolly moves / pans.


3. Framing / Macro shots -

4k images will give us framing options in the aesthetic of shots, hopefully reducing re-shoot time. We also have a number of macro shots planned. We could get very good images with the right lens on the AF101, but I’m thinking the 4k images gives us greater control with the DOF, in that we have a margin to move physically away from the talent, especially as a lot of shots are relatively low light, and we’re struggling with too shallow a DOF. Is the Red Scarlet’s shallow DOF a problem here,

4. Time consideration -
This is initially being pitched as a 13 episode project, so we’re looking for longer term time efficiency to get the shots we’re after. Simply put, we’re thinking the degree of options / control of framing the shots in post is a quicker method that capturing the exact shots initially in 1080P, and then having no room to maneuver.

Drawbacks:
1. Shallow Depth of Field - although there are several shots where we want a shallow DOF, there are many more where we need it deeper, but is made more complicated but deliberate low light for mood / contrast.

Below is a basic plan layout of the principal set, the bridge. The set is approx. 80 x 100cm. With lighting, it's relatively low IRE overall, with High lumen LED lighting on the characters, low lighting on side walls, and deliberate shadows in the corners / back wall.
Questions are:
1.1 Can we achieve a 60cm or greater DOF in this low light miniature set, to get all the characters in focus?
1.2 Can we achieve a 20cm or less DOF in this set? So as to get singular characters in focus and rack between them?
1.3 Which len(s)?





picture





2. No high fps - We usually have the characters' final running speed at 25% recorded - we shoot at 50 fps (UK broadcast), so we achieve 50% speed no problem, and then have to add artificial frames again in After Effects to get another 50%. This is also the case with the model spaceships. Would have been nice to have it higher, as the added frames aren't always perfect.

3. Learning time
4. Delay in shooting (a few weeks)
5. Storage space
6. Cost - we can employ someone for a year instead!


So, the key questions are:
1. Is a RED suitable for what we're asking for here?
2. Is there a better solution?
3. If we did opt for the RED, what are the best lens for the shots we require – the macro shots, DOF needs, general purpose shooting lens? We would clearly prefer stills lens from a costings perspective. Other considerations is that it's for HD TV output (not cinema but neither SD); that we're shooting a lot of miniatures; that we would like to focus rack between miniatures.


4. What other accessories would help us to maximise the RED's use in this project?

Any advice would be appreciated,

Pierre Devereux
 
So, the key questions are:
1. Is a RED suitable for what we're asking for here?
2. Is there a better solution?
3. If we did opt for the RED, what are the best lens for the shots we require – the macro shots, DOF needs, general purpose shooting lens? We would clearly prefer stills lens from a costings perspective. Other considerations is that it's for HD TV output (not cinema but neither SD); that we're shooting a lot of miniatures; that we would like to focus rack between miniatures.
4. What other accessories would help us to maximise the RED's use in this project?

Hi Pierre, I'm going to tackle your key questions here.

1. Certainly and it's a good option.
2. Depends on what you mean by that and what your budget is.
3. I will investigate purchasing several macro lenses, likely a very wide angle zoom or prime (like the Duclos 11-16mm), look into using extension tubes and/or diopters, also the right tool for the job is a Frazier Lens System. Do a google search on that and you'll see what I mean. We've used them for many miniature shoots in the past and that's really one of the best ways to get the DOF you're after. An Innovision Probe is also viable here, but a bit less flexible than the Frazier. The downside to the Frazier system is you'll need light. A minimum of T7.1, but typically around T16 is desired for maximum effect.
4. Luckily rigging Red cameras is a breeze. I'm guess you'll be flipped upside-down a lot which will allow you to get the lens closer to the ground.

You can use smaller cameras with smaller sensors and more of a "bug eye" DOF effect as well, but you're image quality in general will suffer. Especially from a post standpoint.

Miniature work is an art form in itself. Precise photographic techniques and "tricks" are often used. You'll likely need to do some experiments yourself to see if any of what I described is viable for you or find somebody with a good amount of experience working in tiny worlds to assist you.
 
Hi Phil,

Thank you for your response. I will discuss this with the rest of the team and see what we come up with. None of us have had much experience in this field, and we are all very new still, so any advice from "those who know" is always appreciated.

Pierre
 
Cheers Pierre, your subject size is really right at that weird middle ground where macro lenses might work for a lot of your applications. I imagine once you board out some of your setups you'll have a better idea on what glass you'll end up needing to execute your desired shots.

For instance, for a Barbie sized character you can likely make do with a good set of macro lenses and an ultra wide (which usually have impressive close focus capabilities). Then it'll be more about deciding what you want in and out of focus to really utilize something like the Frazier.
 
Hi Phil,

Just an update (out of interest :001_smile:), After our initial tests, it seems that most of our work is going to be green screen compositions. As a result, we will only really be interested in depth of field for the exterior shots (and there wont be many of those). We would prefer our characters to be all in focus, and the sets probably as well (as the sets are scaled to the characters, and are not very big themselves - in their "real-world").

So I am guessing a good Macro lens for the characters would do well. Now I need to figure out where to go with that. We are going to get the scarlet, and the Canon lens adapter. Do you have any suggestions for decent priced macro lenses that would be compatible?

I am looking into the Frasier lenses as you suggested.

Thank you

Pierre
 
Hi Phil,

With our Scarlet on the way, we have settled on the Canon EF 100mm f2.8L Macro IS USM Lens as out first Macro lens. I am now trying to figure out what would be a good general, all purpose lens to get as well. We have ordered the Canon AL mount with our Scarlet for now, and will wait for a while before we get other mounts. I have been looking around, and come up with a few suggestions for a good general Canon lens.

As concerned as I am to follow an article that says "the best ....... ever", I have found the following site, and am using it to look at options: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/Canon-General-Purpose-Lens.aspx

You mentioned previously that we should look to an ultra wide lens, would you be able to suggest one for us to look at? I was actually trying to find a canon lens that is comparable to the lumix 14-140 that we currently use on our panasonic af101.

My last question for the day, is the scarlet, with a canon mount, able to allow the canon lenses to use their autofocus and other mechanical functions?

Thank you

Pierre
 
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