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***The OConnor O-Focus DM Cine and Photo Sets***OFFICIAL THREAD!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Eric J. Johnston
  • Start date Start date
All the photo lenses will work great with it unless your baseplate and rods are not of standard height.
Sorry, but this is not correct. With LW15 standard rods setup (ie. 60mm spacing and 85mm height, rods center to center), the OFocus standard friction gear will slide under the Pentax M SMC 50 f/1.4 and 35 f/2, which are very similar in size to Nikon AI primes. Leica M lenses are generally much smaller in diameter than these Pentax lenses. You WILL need to add a larger diameter 0.8 gear to these small lenses, or use a larger friction gear/adapter.

You can find rods standard specs on the OConnor site: http://www.ocon.com/labs/rod-standards.html.
 
Sorry...I didn´t mean using the friction wheel...I always use mechanical gearing even if they are not permanent...like redrock or zacuto...I prefer it to the friction whell although it is a great practical solution...I don´t think anyone would buy an O´Connon just to get a friction wheel but anyway...the DM is so precise that just using a friction wheel would be overkill but each one should knows its trade... ;-)

http://store.redrockmicro.com/Catalog/Lens-Gears-accessories

Thanks
 
Thanks! I think I will buy Ofocus (2000 is the best price among 2500 for Chrosziel studio or 3400 for CFF1 or 3800 for FF5 studio )but maybe much more safe to buy Chrosziel studio for 2500 because I have some doubts about Ofocus I think Oconnor remove swing arm because of competition with CFF1 in this case it seems like some experimental design with some risk:
1. focus gear will not easy get lens, it is so low and so at the end of bridge, it needs to use lens gears, but lens gear is ok for still lenses but if this problem will be with CP.2 or Zeiss standard and I think there is much possible situation when focus gear just will not get the lens at some baseplates.
2. and moving the focus gear from the end of bridge to center is very limited. You can't just movie focus gear to the center of bridge because Handwheel would thrust against rods. So I think buying Chrosziel studio for 2500 there is no any risk but buying Ofocus there is seems like with some risk.
 
Hey Guys. We own both the OFocus and the OBox and we couldn't be happier with how rugged and accurate the gear is. The rubber "gear" on the OFocus works perfectly with our canon and nikon glass and having the ability to switch the hand wheel from left to right, for days we do and don't have an AC, is fantastic. The OConnor gear is great for any price but its especially great for the very fair price OConnor has set it at.
Also you should know we rent the gear along with the Scarlet, so if you ever want to give it a test come check us out www.redefinerentals.com

4X0A7574-Edit_for-reduser2.jpg
 
My question is, will it work on the RED ONE 19mm rod system which is 104mm center to center?
 
The Studio Bridge from the CFF-1 C1241-1300 would convert the O-Focus to 19mm rods HOWEVER then it would only work with big zoom lenses like the 24-290.

Will the O-Focus with the Studio 19mm bridge work with the Red Pro Primes? Or will it sit too low?
 
Is it possible to buy a proper Ofocus DM kit for 19mm rods?
I don't use any 15mm rods and I don't want to buy one kit plus a $500 bridge adapter.
 
Is it possible to buy a proper Ofocus DM kit for 19mm rods?
I don't use any 15mm rods and I don't want to buy one kit plus a $500 bridge adapter.
I think you can only buy a 15mm version and then buy the 19mm bridge separately...that's what I had to do...and much as I love my O-Focus DM, the idea that the 19mm adapter costs an extra $553 USD made me very unhappy.
 
I think you can only buy a 15mm version and then buy the 19mm bridge separately...that's what I had to do...and much as I love my O-Focus DM, the idea that the 19mm adapter costs an extra $553 USD made me very unhappy.

Thanks for the info Tom.
 
Basically, here is the deal, the O'Focus with both wheels is perfectly good for most situations, whether with still or cine lenses. No problem with reach for CP.2's, for instance.
It is smaller and lighter and can be adapted up to 19mm. The CFF1 is much larger and can be adapted down to 15mm. So one's choice should be made based on what they use more often. However, whether one uses an FF4 or the O'Connor, a riser is probably needed anyhow for RED cameras and other accessories such as mattebox's.
Personally, I prefer the smaller DM because it is actually quite sturdy and as large as most other follow's.
In fact I love it. I think it will be a part of my kit for a long time.
 
Basically, here is the deal, the O'Focus with both wheels is perfectly good for most situations, whether with still or cine lenses. No problem with reach for CP.2's, for instance.
I switch between Nikon and Contax primes, which require the 15mm because of their small diameter, and a RED RPZ 18-85 which requires 19mm rod setup to clear the lens because of its large diameter.
 
I switch between Nikon and Contax primes, which require the 15mm because of their small diameter, and a RED RPZ 18-85 which requires 19mm rod setup to clear the lens because of its large diameter.

Tom, if you have a minute I would love to see pictures of your OFocus in both of the set ups you describe. Right now I'm using the OFocus with 15mm bridge on a 15-19 adapter from Shoot35, but was planning to bite the bullet and get the Oconnor 19mm bridge. I didn't think there would be any trouble, but you bring up a point that makes me wonder if I'd be okay with my Duclos ZFs size wise. If you can provide photos or just thoughts it would be great...I'd hate to drop those 553 dollars and wind up with a part that doesn't work.
Thanks!

-Harry
 
Tom, if you have a minute I would love to see pictures of your OFocus in both of the set ups you describe. Right now I'm using the OFocus with 15mm bridge on a 15-19 adapter from Shoot35, but was planning to bite the bullet and get the Oconnor 19mm bridge. I didn't think there would be any trouble, but you bring up a point that makes me wonder if I'd be okay with my Duclos ZFs size wise. If you can provide photos or just thoughts it would be great...I'd hate to drop those 553 dollars and wind up with a part that doesn't work.
Thanks!

-Harry
Harry, it's an expensive bugger but it does work just as advertised! Here is a link to an album of pix showing both configurations (cinevised Nikons and RPZ). Although these pix were mostly to show the Allstar A-mount, I think you can zoom in and see the details of the O-Focus pretty well.

https://picasaweb.google.com/106221054361098073539/AllstarAMount?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCPa8w-GTo5elJg&feat=directlink


Hope this helps...
Tom
 
Quick question.
The photo set works well for adding extra rotation. Almost too well. I have some 90 degree throws which are now more than 360 degrees with Cinevate rings. Is it possible to get an even larger 0.8 pitch gear for the follow focus besides the two that are included with it? I forget, but perhaps this follow focus is ARRI gear compatibie?
 
Your question is one that seems to still be causing confusion for a lot of people. The Studio Bridge from the CFF-1 C1241-1300 would convert the O-Focus to 19mm rods HOWEVER then it would only work with big zoom lenses like the 24-290. Why? Because it was designed as a direct drive interface follow focus around the common rod standards. By using a rod adapter such as the AB-1519, it keeps the optical axis measurement for LWS constant while still adapting to studio rods. This keeps the direct drive mechanism where we engineered it to get the most flexibility out of the design.

Sorry if I asked too many questions on that thread but I just want to be 100% sure before buying the Ofocus DM. Except for the price, I like the fact the kit is smaller than the FF-1.
I use only 19mm set-up so I planned to do the same as some fellow Redusers and to purchase the Studio Rod Bridge 15mm/19mm Snap On (C1241-1300) to replace the 15mm LWS Bridge.
Then I read the whole thread once again and noticed this comment from Eric.
Does it mean changing the bridge will affect the way the Ofocus DM works? Will the result not be as good as it's supposed to be?

Edit: I received an answer from Eric at Vitec. Looks like it´s easier to go with the CFF-1.
 
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