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How to Properly Black Shade an Epic?

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Desmond Ford

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Is there an online resource or tutorial, preferable step-by-step, for how to properly black shade an Epic?

Basically, I want to know to proper steps and why they are important, also what to look for in regard to digital noise and correct black levels.



dezzy
 
It's simple. Get the camera to the temperature you'll be shooting in, or at least let it warm up 10-15 minutes. Put the body cap on and blackshade. Really, getting into the temp where you'll be shooting is most important if you are shooting outside in sun and it's 85F+ or if it's really cold. Otherwise, you won't see any difference unless you are pushing the sensor really far with high ISO or long exposure.
 
The RED instructions are vague when they say get the camera to operating temperature - I think most people do that wrong.

What I think people should do is to get to the operating temperature is by actually hitting the record button or manually set the fan speed to the record speed - for 10 minutes prior to blackshading. What some people do is they just let the camera sit for 15 minutes but since there are two fan speeds (record and standby), the standby fan goes on and the camera never gets to record temp.
 
PatrickFaith said:
The RED instructions are vague when they say get the camera to operating temperature - I think most people do that wrong.

What I think people should do is to get to the operating temperature is by actually hitting the record button or manually set the fan speed to the record speed - for 10 minutes prior to blackshading. What some people do is they just let the camera sit for 15 minutes but since there are two fan speeds (record and standby), the standby fan goes on and the camera never gets to record temp.
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I usually set my fan speed to manual and drop it to about 35-40% for standby during the warm-up (15 minutes or so). That gets the temp up a little higher.Then i do my black shade and re-set the fan after the black shade.
 
I try to get it to at least within 3 to 5 degrees of operating temperature before black shading. So agree on manually setting fan to operating speed rather then Auto beforehand.

I've even resorted to partially covering the fan intake if I know working temperature is going to be MUCH higher than the unlit studio I'm prepping the camera in - but then I carefully babysit the camera to ensure it doesn't overheat.

A good test to see if black shading is OK, is to crank ISO to maximum and see if there is unevenness across the frame (ie should be even noise pattern, with no fixed pattern or graduation or dead pixels), although bad pixels may be hard/impossible to see on small screens, and then a black shade would be a wise precaution if possible.
 
Its usually really hot outside down here in Miami for outdoor shoots. Lets say for example I have a two day outdoor shoot. I calibrate the first day of shooting to the temperature outside. If I then go home and store the camera in an air conditioned environment do I need to recalibrate the next morning due to the temperature switch the camera experienced?
 
Carlos Reyes said:
Its usually really hot outside down here in Miami for outdoor shoots. Lets say for example I have a two day outdoor shoot. I calibrate the first day of shooting to the temperature outside. If I then go home and store the camera in an air conditioned environment do I need to recalibrate the next morning due to the temperature switch the camera experienced?
Click to expand...

I would say if you have time, it's good to do it. Having said that, if ambient temperature where you are shooting hasn't changed significantly you can get away with not recalibrating. I would do the max ISO check though at the operating temp, to be sure there are no obvious picture issues.
 
Stephen Matthews said:
here is my question do you leave the fan on manual at 35-40 for the black shading itself or do you set it back to auto?
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Yes. Leave it in manual until black shading has completed.
 
Stephen Matthews said:
here is my question do you leave the fan on manual at 35-40 for the black shading itself or do you set it back to auto?
Click to expand...

I think the answer to that depends on how you set your fans when shooting, Auto or Manual. The way I see it, while blackshading you're trying to keep the camera at the temp. you expect it to be operating.
 
Carlos Reyes said:
Its usually really hot outside down here in Miami for outdoor shoots. Lets say for example I have a two day outdoor shoot. I calibrate the first day of shooting to the temperature outside. If I then go home and store the camera in an air conditioned environment do I need to recalibrate the next morning due to the temperature switch the camera experienced?
Click to expand...
I go through this dilemma all the time, which is why I would love to have more sophisticated BS controls in the firmware. A similar situation occurs if you just took your camera out of the bag or from your AC vehicle for a quick shot. The way I understand it, the optimum situation is where your sensor is at the same temp you set BS to in the calibration, anything too far off that is a potential problem. BTW, you can check your calibrated temperature/shutter in the menus of the camera. Settings>Project>System Status
To your exact question, I think you would be covered if you let the camera come up to the same temp. on the second day as the first before shooting.
 
Personally I think BSing is archaic and a step that needs to be build into the camera with an auto function. There is little time to BS before each shoot.

What was not covered by any posts in this thread was to BS when doing HIGH FPS work. This is incredibly time consuming on a shoot.

For example:

I have a metal worker client with tons of machines. He wants each one filmed through the range of their motion and working process. So I have to switch FPS back and further over 50 times in a day.

The other option which is a pain for my client is to shoot everything "normal 24 fps" once, 50 machines. Then BS, and come back through at 300 or 121 fps.

SUPER PAIN IN THE ARSE! And there is no fix for it.

The other option is to just roll with the BS you have all day and deal with the noise in post, GAH!
 
You shouldn't have to do another Black Shade for higher framerates, as long as there's enough light so your exposure is still good. It's slower framerates which generate more noise than your initial calibration.

I work on shoots that calibrate at 25fps at the beginning of the day, and then change framerates all day up to 100fps, occasionally even 300fps, and back without problems.
 
Eric, good to know. Thanks for the report.

I also have been doing the same thing. On an earlier thread some respected people on RU and at RED told us to BS for higher FPS as well as lower as you mentioned.

Did they release a firmware yet to make custom presets for BSing? I found using the Default rather than my custom BS works well at times. It's a little bit of magic to get the right custom BS at this point.


ericyoung said:
You shouldn't have to do another Black Shade for higher framerates, as long as there's enough light so your exposure is still good. It's slower framerates which generate more noise than your initial calibration.

I work on shoots that calibrate at 25fps at the beginning of the day, and then change framerates all day up to 100fps, occasionally even 300fps, and back without problems.
Click to expand...
 
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