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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

SHOOTING a TV or MONITOR w/RED-ONE "without" the LINES ??

George D.

George D.

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Is it possible, with a Red-One, to shoot the screen of a TV or Monitor "without" the lines? If so, exactly how?

Is there a setting in the menu that allows you to do it?

Would 30fps be an OK frame rate to do that?

Would it be better to shoot a LCD TV/Monitor or a CRT TV/Monitor?

Would a Computer Monitor suffice?

What kind of quality will the resulting footage be if it's shot in 4K?

** This would be for an "effect" and NOT intended for prime imagery. **

Thanks for your time.

.
 
You can either change the refresh rate of the monitor, or the shutter speed on your camera.
 
Change the Shutter to Reflect the Power of the Coutry you are in.. 50hrz in EU 60 in USA.. So your shutter speed for 24p should be 50 for EU and 60 for USA or a Variant of that.. Like 30 or 25 or 120 and So on.
 
Pablo Moreno said:
I don't understand, Hollywood movies always try to simulate lines in that kind of shots so people believe that they are actually watching a tv set. Anyway probably your purpose is different.. I'll give you a tip, you can simulate a tv screen in After Effects with 3D tracking..

http://www.videocopilot.net/help/element/tutorial/basic/3d_truck_composite/
Click to expand...

I'm sorry if my question is confusing, but I do NOT want the lines, regardless of what Hollywood does or does not do. I have a different purpose in mind, so I just need to know if it is achievable and how to go about it.

Thanks.
.
 
Adjust your shutter speed, that's about the only option you can do in camera for lines as stated above. You probably are not going to get the lines completely gone but much more manageable with shutter adjustment.
 
This is not very difficult to achieve with most newer monitors. We didn't want to go through the trouble of inserting images in post partly because of budget and partly because we wanted reflections in faces and eye glasses to be real, not CG.d. We simply had a few LCD TV's set up in our "command centre" and worked through the display settings on the TV's and with all but one screen had success making it work without flicker or lines. This was at 24p. The source material was a mixture of 24p and 30p but with some time to adjust TV settings and shutter speed it worked with the Red one MX. You will have to do your own testing on your set with your screens and source material. There is no magic formula because TVs are all different.
 
Tony Rudenko said:
http://www.24frame.com
Click to expand...

Tube monitors = Slightly skewed black rolling line
Plasmas = Pulsing images
LCD's = Pulsing images (NOTE: this is not true of all LCD's, it depends on the manufacturer as well as the method for powering back-light)

In order to achieve this with ANY Tube monitor you NEED a specialty shop that has modified TV/Computer screens/Plasma's wit accompanying Camera Sync Equipment Period.

In the case of LCD's you may get lucky and find one that doesn't pulse, Great! But if you do get one that pulses, the ONLY way to fix it is to set the brightness (back-light) to maximum... Only problem is now you have to expose for your LCD screen & everything else goes dark... Problem comes from the way the Back-light is powered, the ideal way (for us at least) is to have the brightness act like a dimmer lowering the voltage on a light bulb. However, some manufacturers choose to cut the power on & off at supper hi-speed at various frequencies to achieve the same effect and the human eye is none the wiser, but you better believe that your cameras see it.

Short story: A new TV show needed a large Bullpen (police/CIA/whatever) full of monitors for one of their regular sets. The producers contacted a playback company for a quote. Producers got the quote & thought "Hey, we can go down to Costco & buy all the monitors we need & we wont have to pay for the rental from the playback company". Well they did, and spent about $20k on monitors... cheap right?... Day one cameras show up, the set had just been completed the night before, they roll the cameras & 70% of all the monitors flickered. minutes later they call the playback company pleading to rent their gear...
 
Tony Rudenko said:
Tube monitors = Slightly skewed black rolling line
Plasmas = Pulsing images
LCD's = Pulsing images (NOTE: this is not true of all LCD's, it depends on the manufacturer as well as the method for powering back-light)

In order to achieve this with ANY Tube monitor you NEED a specialty shop that has modified TV/Computer screens/Plasma's wit accompanying Camera Sync Equipment Period.

In the case of LCD's you may get lucky and find one that doesn't pulse, Great! But if you do get one that pulses, the ONLY way to fix it is to set the brightness (back-light) to maximum... Only problem is now you have to expose for your LCD screen & everything else goes dark... Problem comes from the way the Back-light is powered, the ideal way (for us at least) is to have the brightness act like a dimmer lowering the voltage on a light bulb. However, some manufacturers choose to cut the power on & off at supper hi-speed at various frequencies to achieve the same effect and the human eye is none the wiser, but you better believe that your cameras see it.

Short story: A new TV show needed a large Bullpen (police/CIA/whatever) full of monitors for one of their regular sets. The producers contacted a playback company for a quote. Producers got the quote & thought "Hey, we can go down to Costco & buy all the monitors we need & we wont have to pay for the rental from the playback company". Well they did, and spent about $20k on monitors... cheap right?... Day one cameras show up, the set had just been completed the night before, they roll the cameras & 70% of all the monitors flickered. minutes later they call the playback company pleading to rent their gear...
Click to expand...

I think you can solve it shooting at 30fps, 25fps or so depending on the hertz going to the monitors. Also opening up to 360 shutter helps..
 
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