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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

URGENT: first RED shoot

S

Sebastian Cepeda

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Hi Guys,

this is my first time writing on this forum, but have been following it already for a couple of years...great people here.

Now I have a small question, on this Friday ill be shooting for the first time with the magical RED ONE.
My biggest concern now is following: If i choose on the camera REC709 (best for HD Broadcast) me and the director will see the image "as best as possible" but I still want to work in RAW.
If I change the setting to REC709, do I still have the RAW possibilities or does it change and I loose some possibilities afterwards?

Can I for example have on the EVF the RAW Colors and on the monitor for the director REC709, I dont want him to think that everything looks pretty flat.

It would be cool if he could see kind of the finished look...maybe also important to know, ill be grading the final short on DaVinci...

Thanks a lot for your quick response.
Cheers
Sebastian
 
In current camera builds, the viewing option is REDColor / REDGamma which is designed for accurate colorimetry on display on a REC709 monitor and a nice tonal range.

Unfortunately, on RED One, there's no option for different views on different monitors. Forthcoming Epic has the power to do that though.

RAW is always what gets recorded.

Graeme
 
Brent J. Craig said:
You can make one of the programmable buttons a Raw/Redcolor switch for quick checks of how it looks in Raw. You really don't want to spend the day looking at Raw anyway.
Click to expand...

On the M, that _can_ be informative, on the MX, not so much (if you shoot at 800, which you should...)
 
Hi guys, another question regarding exposure. Yesterday we were checking the camera, and we were shooting at my home without any light, except for bad room lighting. I set the iso to 320, and the pictures was of corse too dark...but next to the histogramm, the 3 rgb balls turned in, showing that RGB is clipping eventhough it was clearly underexposed. Afterwards i changed to iso 1280, and eventhough to the eye the color were "good" the same happened?! Not sure if trust those or not. By the way I was using RED lcds 5.6 and EVF.

Any feedback? Shooting starts in less than 10 hours. Any help as always apreciated! :)
 
Ok. I'm not positive what exactly you are referring to, so I'll just throw out a couple of thoughts:

First of all, if you are on the original M sensor, you should definitely not be shooting at 1280 iso. I'm sure you already know that. Secondly, in build 30, no matter what your iso settings, your histogram should always reflect the RAW image. This is also true of the stop lights. Keep in mind that the stop lights will go off if any of your image is exposing, so even if a tiny portion of your green channel is clipping, the green stop light will light up. That could be a light bulb in the background. What I prefer to do is use the "exposure" tool (you will see "Ev" at the top of your monitor). It is the black and white setting that shows red for over-exposure and purple for under-exposure. Everything in between is good. So with the M sensor, just set the iso to 320 and monitor in Redcolor. Set one of the buttons to the "exposure" tool, and if you have any concerns about exposure, just toggle over to it for a second and make sure there is no red or purple on places where you need to see detail. You can also use the False Color setting (predator vision) to try and get pink on skin detail, but for the most part I think you can light by eye using the monitor if you don't under or over-expose the skin tones.
 
Im not trying to film with ISO 1280, it was only a test because of missing lights for the test. ISO will stay allways at 320. I had it with the Exposure EV tool, and everything looked actually good thats why i got worried about the stop lights. Eventhough there wasnt too many light it was even a bit underexposed it meant all channels were overexposed...strange.
but ill stick to the false color so everything should be properly exposed. ill be using my lightmeter anyway but just wanted to check if that was a firmware mistake or something similar.

Thanks again!
 
It only takes one tiny little highlight to light up those stop lights. There is almost always one or two stop lights on when I am shooting. I basically ignore them and pay more attention to the other exposure tools available. Hope that puts your mind at ease a bit. Good luck with your shoot!
 
Thanks for the reply, that did ease my mind ^^
The shoot this weekend was a complet success, ill open a new thread on the Shoot on RED with some stills...

Thanks again!
 
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