Epic W Stills 'jewelry'

[ali walker]

Did a little jewellery shoot. Messed about with the Epic W to see how it faired to my Canon 5D mk4. It's pin sharp at 6k WS @75fps. Very impressed. Trying out a few more pieces tomorrow, but so far this is one hell of a camera.

 

[Elias Tejeda]

Would love to see some of the results

 

[Björn Benckert]

Why not use it to full extend, shoot stills 12 fps full bandwidth and full sensor?

 

[Zeb B]

Why not use it to full extend, shoot stills 12 fps full bandwidth and full sensor?

Exactly, go even further . . . 8K 4:1 aspect gives you Red Code 2:1 at 12fps and looks all cinematic 'n shit ;-)

 

[Elias Tejeda]

If he's also doing video 12fps isnt going to cut it

Unless it's some faux stop motion

 

[Andrew R Lewis]

Exactly, go even further . . . 8K 4:1 aspect gives you Red Code 2:1 at 12fps and looks all cinematic 'n shit ;-)

This is what I'm working with. The only think is I haven't nailed down what shutter angle best captures stills for me here...using mostly available light.

 

[Björn Benckert]

This is what I'm working with. The only think is I haven't nailed down what shutter angle best captures stills for me here...using mostly available light.

You can go 360 if the object is not moving. I done stills in like 4 frames 360 with frame sum. to get as clean as possible. Going slower than that or possibly even on that speed you can start to get some odd artifacts. But if the light is what you are after and noise free images than those artifacts can easily be painted out.

 

[konrad grant]

You can go 360 if the object is not moving. I done stills in like 4 frames 360 with frame sum. to get as clean as possible. Going slower than that or possibly even on that speed you can start to get some odd artifacts. But if the light is what you are after and noise free images than those artifacts can easily be painted out.

if you are getting artifacts for a particular shutter speed .. just do a blackshading calibration to get rid of them . in an ideal world, you would do a calibration each time you change the shutter .. long exposures will give you artifacts if you've gone from 75fps etc ... create some blackshading profiles for the job, and you can forget about the artifacts

 

[Gavin Greenwalt]

If you're doing still life frames definitely turn on frame averaging. #ZeroNoise

 

[Mike P.]

What's the real-world difference between frame summing and frame averaging again?

 

[ali walker]

Sorry for the late reply. I was shooting video too and wanted to see if it’s possible just to use the red for stills and video. I work in house for a luxury brand and so far we have printed 2 adverts - one in Vogue the other in WSJ, used several stills for our catalogue- it’s been extremely versatile.. Yes frame average a must if just using it for stills. I’m taking it out for a stills only shoot soon- will share results

 

[Björn Benckert]

if you are getting artifacts for a particular shutter speed .. just do a blackshading calibration to get rid of them . in an ideal world, you would do a calibration each time you change the shutter .. long exposures will give you artifacts if you've gone from 75fps etc ... create some blackshading profiles for the job, and you can forget about the artifacts

Thats wrong.

Its for a reason the cameras has limitations for shutterspeed lenghth. if you do 1sec shutterspeeds you will get artifacts like strange pixels along edges and such.