Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Pilot shoot in Chicago

I should hope so... it's his camera!

hehe , didn't know that

It's great that I don't have to rent the more expensive Master Primes for this show -- you can see how well-exposed this street is at 800 ASA, 180 degree shutter, T/2.0:

You seem to have relatively deep DOF at T-2.0. Is that typical?
 
If you're interested in some Red MX ISO500 tiffs, you can find under and over Macbeth samples here http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=2ce06094e4b22845ab1eab3e9fa335cadd9609af29b49c6d

Red MX Test ISO500 25fps 4K 16:9 RedColor
Ultra Prime 85mm T8 reference
Astro WM3004 Waveform 45% off 18% Grey Card
Light meter matched

Good luck with the shoot David. Did you get sign off on using the Red MX yet? What alternatives are you testing?
 
You seem to have relatively deep DOF at T-2.0. Is that typical?

When the focus is set deep, near infinity, a wide shot looks deeper in focus even at wide apertures. If I were focused close to something, you'd see just how shallow the focus was at T/2.0.
 
900%20Ridealong6.jpg
Hi David,

I'm pleasantly surprised at how yellow that sodium vapor is rendering at 3200K. It's been my experience that the old Red sensor renders sodium a bit redder, while film tends to be more yellow. Have you noticed this as well?
 
David... it is really incredible that you take the time to help us all learn from you and see your work "realtime". Most big dogs don't take/have the time to do this. You have been ultra generous with your knowledge and expertise and posted in a very thoughtful, balanced and patient way. I know I speak for everyone when I say that we all appreciate having you here.

Jim
 
I should hope so... it's his camera!

It's great that I don't have to rent the more expensive Master Primes for this show -- you can see how well-exposed this street is at 800 ASA, 180 degree shutter, T/2.0:

900%20Ridealong6.jpg

Hey David

Have you tried bracketing shots like this and comparing the results?

I bet a shot like this would look really nice at 1600 ISO and stopped down to get a little more out of the clipped whites. Not that you necessarily want to see detail in a streetlamp - but I suspect the overall image might look better given how well the new sensor handles underexposure and noise.
 
I know I speak for everyone when I say that we all appreciate having you here.

For sure... I always like to check the recent posts from David... I can count on the fact that I'm receiving valuable, balanced information that isn't emotionally charged one way or the other...

Thanks, David for all your contributions.
 
Thank you David!

Great work, and great posts. I love to see the MX in action.
This sensor is a dream come true. 800 ASA looks mint!
 
opps, forgot to add my question.
What is causing the purple edge around the 2nd lamp and no other lamp in the shot on post 37?
(my first thought was CA but its not on the edge of the frame and its too isolated an occurrence in the shot to be CA)
 
Looks great, thanks for posting.

I'd love to see any more night shots as you get them. Seeing images from a camera that can handle the ambient light at night always gets me hooked.
 
David... it is really incredible that you take the time to help us all learn from you and see your work "realtime". Most big dogs don't take/have the time to do this. You have been ultra generous with your knowledge and expertise and posted in a very thoughtful, balanced and patient way. I know I speak for everyone when I say that we all appreciate having you here.

Jim

+1

For sure... I always like to check the recent posts from David... I can count on the fact that I'm receiving valuable, balanced information that isn't emotionally charged one way or the other...

Thanks, David for all your contributions.

+1

About the purple fringe on the second street lamp. It does look like CA. the others don't have it but that is the one lamp that is surrounded by the darkest BG. Look at the red car closest to the foreground. Its lights have no purple fringe on the bottom, but along the top where that obscure railing crossed the lights you do see the purple. Same with the next car down the street parked on the right. So, is that from the UP being practically wide open?
 
Now I'm totally confused. Maybe I just don't get how ASA/ISO works completely, but that seems counter intuitive to me. If you're clipping at 400 ASA, wouldn't you want to go DOWN to 320? Or is there some kind of change in DR with ISO adjustments? Why are you increasing to 500 ASA for your daytime exteriors? Is there some kind of advantage in contrast?

You are not alone, its amazing how often I get this question on set.

Rating a sensor faster is defacto underexposing it more, thus there is more highlight information being recorded, but less shadow information.

Basically higher ratings give you less clipping but more noise, and lower ratings give you more clipping but less noise.

Let's say you have "x" amount of light and your meter at 250 ASA says to shoot it at f/2.8. Well, if you changed your meter's rating to 500 ASA, it would tell you that the same amount of light should be shot at f/4.0. But if the actual sensitivity of the sensor or film stock hasn't changed, using f/4.0 instead of f/2.8 is robbing the sensor/film of one-stop of exposure. So your bright areas won't clip as quickly but you'll be recording less shadow information. And once you lift everything in post back to look normal in brightness, you are increasing the noise level. But if the sensor has a really low noise floor, as the M-X does, you can get away with that.

As always - Great reply Mr Mullen.

Maybe Mr Jannard or Mr Land could put this on the "Thoughts and Tips..." thread under the heading of "Selecting ISO/ASA on RED" (or whatever).

Thank you Mr Mullen for the great insight that you always bring to this forum.

All the best,

Tom
 
opps, forgot to add my question.
What is causing the purple edge around the 2nd lamp and no other lamp in the shot on post 37?
(my first thought was CA but its not on the edge of the frame and its too isolated an occurrence in the shot to be CA)

Perhaps the second lamp is slightly purple
because the bulb inside is slightly dimmer than the others.
 
Yes, David, thank you. Always good, impartial observations.
Cheers,
Harry
 
Perhaps the second lamp is slightly purple
because the bulb inside is slightly dimmer than the others.

I was thinking that, or power problems or a different bulb. The CA like halo is a little surprising and really jumped out at me, could it be this frame is a crop?
 
Back
Top