shooting on the water

[Steven Tader]

hello, i shoot for a client that manufactures high end runabouts and we're hoping to shoot RED this season. in the past i've used a f900/3 with a fujinon optical stabilizer to take the vibrations out and a custom gimbal mount to help maintain a level horizon. i also shoot from a custom platform on a photo boat that is somewhat isolated from vibration. i have a few questions/concerns that i'd like to address before i commit to shooting this on the RED:

1. has anyone shot any boat to boat stuff with the RED? if so, any tips or observations? also curious what setups other people have used for stabilization. i'm interested in some of the gyro systems, but wondering if there are any other ideas out there.

2. i have seen the infamous helicopter footage floating around on the boards and i'm concerned that the vibrations of the boat could cause rolling shutter issues. any validity to that?

3. we run the boats pretty fast and if the water gets choppy, the rig takes a decent beating. i'm a little worried about dropped frames, damage to the rig, etc.

4. we almost always have humidity warnings with the f900 and i'm wondering if the RED has any humidity issues. we've also been out on the water in 100-105 degree days, and i dont know how those temps will affect the red for extended periods of time.

5. we do a lot of sunrise/sunset shooting and i've seen some footage that renders the sun purple. is this related to the IR issue that can be resolved with a hot mirror filter?

i'd appreciate any input.

thanks,
steven

--
Steven Tader
Dir. of Photography
Premier Studios

 

[David Cox]

We shot with the makohead (makohead.com) They are available for rent at many US locations and can be shipped. Well worth it and easy to set up.

Choppy conditions can be minimized by using Element Technica's ISO-Plate or using CF cards.

We were stuck in very rough conditions off of Tampa. We kept the camera covered as much as possible and had no damage. The makohead is made to withstand these elements.

The camera should be shielded from direct sunlight when possible to reduce camera temps. We have shot on the hottest days in south Florida and haven't really had any issues if camera in shielded and fan settings are appropriate.

Dave

 

[Mark Andersen]

It is also advisable to run the fan in HOT mode to keep the camera fan going full blast. cooling packs and/or reflective covers are also a good suggestion. I did some boat stuff on the cheap (no stabilizers) and had drop frame problems, but no damage. If vibration is an issue use CF cards.

 

[David Grober]

STABILIZING RED on the WATER or Vehicles.

STABILIZING RED on the WATER or Vehicles.

Best stabilization head is the PERFECT HORIZON by Motion Picture Marine in Los Angeles. (310) 822-1100. Previously used on both single RED shoots and twin RED cameras for 3D shooting surfing. Perfect Horizon is almost 20 lbs lighter than the MakoHead, 4" shorter, and in side by side Academy Award tech comparison, the Perfect Horizon won an Academy Award.

 

[Cail Young]

1. has anyone shot any boat to boat stuff with the RED? if so, any tips or observations? also curious what setups other people have used for stabilization. i'm interested in some of the gyro systems, but wondering if there are any other ideas out there.

We shot with the rig pictured below - hihat sandbagged onto the nose of the dinghy. No stabilisation. Some neoprene or better a Steadi arm would have helped with motor vibration.

2. i have seen the infamous helicopter footage floating around on the boards and i'm concerned that the vibrations of the boat could cause rolling shutter issues. any validity to that?

Even on wider lenses, every time the outboard was running there was a slight vertical blur and wobble on the shots - somewhat removable with VFX but ultimately better isolation would have helped. What they ended up doing what running the motor for a while, and then cutting the engine and drifting for as long as possible.

3. we run the boats pretty fast and if the water gets choppy, the rig takes a decent beating. i'm a little worried about dropped frames, damage to the rig, etc.

Use cards or the SSD, or worst case use the ET shockmount. Unless your rig is on a Steadi arm or handheld heavy chop will definitely drop frames on a RED DRIVE.

4. we almost always have humidity warnings with the f900 and i'm wondering if the RED has any humidity issues. we've also been out on the water in 100-105 degree days, and i dont know how those temps will affect the red for extended periods of time.

If it isn't raining (like it was in the picture) then as long as the camera's shaded you'll be okay. FWIW we didn't have any issues with the bag in the image however it was very cold that day.

 

[Peter Strietmann]

I had some good results shooting from the stern deck of a large protector. The pilot house covered us from spray. We were doing around 20 or 30 knots at times and the seas were up to 8 feet. I used a makohead and a Kata cover on the camera (f950). I would suggest using red ram or cf cards depending on the seas. The protector had twin 150s on it but they were 4 stroke so the vibration was not too bad. I also used vibration isolators (mcmaster/carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#vibration-isolators/=1b0mxb) under a 1" piece of ply that the whole shebang was mounted on. I put them on the four corners of the ply, they are rated by the load you place on them. I like the Makohead. I think if you stay towards the stern you will have less pounding. Also I would recommend a deep v hull. Stay away from whalers.

Best, Peter.

 

[Billy McCannon]

Does the camera need to be serviced after exposure to salt water conditions?
How can you ensure that ports and switches are not put at risk of corrosion salt air or spray that does hit the camera? Does the camera have any seals? Is there any way to ensure that a camera that has been exposed to salty conditions won't develop a fault in a couple of months?

 

[Peter Strietmann]

If, in fact the camera gets salt water on it, it will need servicing. The last thing you want on a Red is salt water. It appears that Steven may be shooting in fresh water as his location is in KS, this is just a guess though. I have built a custom cover for my Red that is made out of a thick clear vinyl. It covers the lens and rods as well. Electronics, nonferrous metals and salt water do not mix. Any part you find that sticks to a magnet or vise versa will oxidize quickly and has to be cleaned throughly after contact with salt water. The Mako head is made to operate under water as well as topside so it need no protection.

I don't work for Mako but I've used their heads in NY, Japan and California on everything from a whaling ship to a protector. Very intuitive to use and no techy required.