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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

The $10 battery hot swap solution

I recently Had Birns and Sawyer make one for me, $105.

I could have made it myself, very easily. but the labor was only $20 anyway.

Could you tell me specifically what to ask for?

I would like to be able to have two separate ET battery plate setups. See the pics posted by Chris Burket in THIS THREAD for ideas on the best locations to clamp two battery plates.

During the swap is the only time both battery plates will be attached at the same time. This is where the male to male cable comes into play.

Can someone please explain how it will work?
 
We made a bunch of these cables (I call them "Suicide cables") and have them in stock in our NY & LA offices.
 
You're flying in style compared to me. I'm modifying a Magiqcam to work with RED. It was only $1800 so if it works it'll be a coup. Seemed to get it balanced last night. Later today I'll do some tests. I swear I've got the ultimate beer budget RED.

Excellent. I too have the magiqcam, the venerable version 2a. Truely a masterpiece, although i didn't think the red would be light enough.....did you do those tests joel? I'd love to see them, and hear your report....
 
Same thing at Birns and Sawyer, They call it a Warranty breaker, or a really Dangerous cable.

Ask for a Male to Male P-tap, thats what its really called.
 
I'd prefer NOT to make this one as there could be a possibility of problems. Hence, the names given to these cables already. Other Cables I'm happy to make.


Good idea. This also gives you a few seconds to make sure the polarity is correct on both ends before you flip the switch.



Pana-tech, would you be interested in making one of these male-to-male DTap cables with a switch in the middle?

Is this something anyone else would be interested in?
 
Same thing at Birns and Sawyer, They call it a Warranty breaker, or a really Dangerous cable.

Ask for a Male to Male P-tap, thats what its really called.

I'm starting to think that B&S is a tad more clever than I am at naming their cables. Warranty Breaker gets right to it, doesn't it?
 
If you put a switch in-line, and use it porperly (I used one from a Lowel power cable) there is no chance of arcing. I did have one of the early prototype cables arc and fry out the p-tap on a quick-plate when it was being swapped in the moist air near the LA river. Good news is it didn't affect the camera or batteries at all. The switch is a must, especially since it's so simple and cheap.

Practice safe swapping!
 
If you put a switch in-line, and use it properly (I used one from a Lowel power cable) there is no chance of arcing. I did have one of the early prototype cables arc and fry out the p-tap on a quick-plate when it was being swapped in the moist air near the LA river. Good news is it didn't affect the camera or batteries at all. The switch is a must, especially since it's so simple and cheap.

Simple and cheap--maybe if you are a Ninja! :ninja:

But I'm just a noob so I'm willing to send a couple hundred $$ from my paypal account.

The hot swap plates on the market are too bulky and I want to use the ET plates with speedy clamps anyway.

Practice safe swapping!

The switch also gives you time to double check the polarity on both ends of the cable before you turn it on.
 
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