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How to prevent RED from overheat?

hasetas

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Hey guys, I have another question now.

It's lucky that the temperature is coming down gradually, but the machine is still hot. I think that stopping fan when shooting is because it doesn't want to be the noise of sound recording. But now I won't record the sound when shooting. Is there any method to force it open the fan? Or is there any way to prevent RED from overheat?

Thanks!
 
Yes, Set fan to "Hot" mode and leave it on Hot mode!

Dave
 
I can deal with the overheating outdoors or indoors..
but I was recently on an underwater shoot.. we had the camera in a housing.
didnt last 20 min before overheating. and it was a PAINNNNNN in the ass.
Becuase the waterhousing was in a rig, and it took a while to get it in place.. By the time the camera was set ready to go, we had maybe 5-10 min of shooting time before i saw the red tally light flashing.
 
Zakaree,

The problem is so obvious. The air that is being circulated to cool the camera is getting to hot to do the cooling job. There is no airflow in the rig so the combination of camera heat and no airflow creates an environment that the camera can not operate in.

How deep is it? Is there a way to create airflow in the rig?

That might be the only way to cool it.

David
 
I can deal with the overheating outdoors or indoors..
but I was recently on an underwater shoot..

I always wondered about this. Maybe Aqua has it figured out, but RED does put off a lot of heat so you'd think these enclosures would heat up.

I've recorded a lot of stuff with body hot warning on. I don't let that stop me. I have overheated the camera twice now. Both time outdoors in 100+ ambient. Indoor air conditioned environments have posed no trouble.
 
An underwater housiing isn't the problem -- it is using one when not underwater or in warm water. Submerged, the housing will act as a big heat sinc and bleed the heat away. But if used out of the water, in surf or in very warm water such as a heated pool, then there is nowhere for the heat to go and the ambient temperature within will rise dramatically.
 
Zakaree,

The problem is so obvious. The air that is being circulated to cool the camera is getting to hot to do the cooling job. There is no airflow in the rig so the combination of camera heat and no airflow creates an environment that the camera can not operate in.

How deep is it? Is there a way to create airflow in the rig?

That might be the only way to cool it.

David

well I know whyyy its overheating. im just saying its a pain to deal with because there are no exaust hoses/fans in the particular housing i was using
 
I always wondered about this. Maybe Aqua has it figured out, but RED does put off a lot of heat so you'd think these enclosures would heat up.

it was aqua's housing..

An underwater housiing isn't the problem -- it is using one when not underwater or in warm water. Submerged, the housing will act as a big heat sinc and bleed the heat away. But if used out of the water, in surf or in very warm water such as a heated pool, then there is nowhere for the heat to go and the ambient temperature within will rise dramatically.

it was def in a heated pool.. prolly 80 degrees.. so that explains that..
 
I always go to walmart and buy the instant ice packs, the ones you have to break a bag that creates the chemical reaction to cool the pack, then place them on the top of camera whenever it somewhat feels warm to my hand and before it says the temp is going up.
 
The easiest way to handle overheating in an underwater housing (if you're in a pool) is to get a cooler with a bunch of ice and water and then put the housing in there when it gets too hot, you'll want desicant (to suck up the condensation) packs, like the silica packs that you find packed in with items.

On a side note.

Zakaree, I'm working with Chris L. (you guys just shot a feature together he said) right now down in Moab, he's really cool and it's a pleasure to work with him since he's worked with someone else who also knows what they are talking about concerning the RED One. It's a pain when people have worked with those that have RED Ones that don't know what they are talking about. Scott Leyes is also on this project, he said he worked with you on a Jaguar shoot that you guys did in UT like 6 months ago, I think he was the 1st AC on that project.
 
Submerged, the housing will act as a big heat sinc and bleed the heat away.

That would be true if the heat from the camera body would be transferred to the housing. However, this is not the case. The heat from the offenders (CPU's and what-not) doesn't move from camera to the housing because of the air cushion surrounding the camera. Air is one of the worse heat conductors. Water temp. up to 100 F (I guess) should be able to keep the camera running (tough to swim in it though). My2c.
 
Zakaree, I'm working with Chris L. (you guys just shot a feature together he said) right now down in Moab, he's really cool and it's a pleasure to work with him since he's worked with someone else who also knows what they are talking about concerning the RED One. It's a pain when people have worked with those that have RED Ones that don't know what they are talking about. Scott Leyes is also on this project, he said he worked with you on a Jaguar shoot that you guys did in UT like 6 months ago, I think he was the 1st AC on that project.

tell Chris and Scott I said HI.
Both great guys!
 
it was def in a heated pool.. prolly 80 degrees.. so that explains that..

Not functioning in an 80 degree pool is not acceptable for me. Anyone who has done any amount of controlled underwater work will know that if using a pool or tank you are going to want it to be atleast 80 degrees if it all possible. For shorter stuff its not going to be an issue but when spending a 12 hour day in a pool even wearing a thin wetsuit you are going to get cold.

Besides an 80 degree pool should provide plenty of heat dissipation. What kind of housing were you using? As far as heat dissipation goes it should ideally have minimal airspace and be made out of metal.

~Jess
 
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