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Tips on carving weight for handheld

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bobbystone

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Just got my EVF which I love. Rigged the cam up for handheld, and threw my damn back out! My 16SR2 weighs 18 lbs. The RED weighs 33 lbs. Any tips for carving out weight. Hell, I'm 47 years old! That battery mount/Drive mount is WAY too damn heavy! The cam goes from 10lbs of body weight to 40 lbs quickly!

Interested in hearing ideas.
 
Camera Body
Primes (Nikon work well too if you need cheap solution)
Screw in filters
EVF
ET Drive mount (Or CF cards if quick shots)
Battery Belt Plate
ET Handheld Package

Everything else based on what you can deal with in terms of weight.
 
im beta testing the prototype ET battery plate and Drive shock mount. both have Vmounts that clip to speedy clamps that grab the rails. very light aluminum construction and the ability to position your battery and drive for best balance as well.
So far they've been the best thing we've gotten for teh rig yet!
 
The drive shock mount is very good. No dropped frames yet with a lot of handheld. And it allows you to counterbalance the weight of the EVF.
 
bobbystone said:
Just got my EVF which I love. Rigged the cam up for handheld, and threw my damn back out! My 16SR2 weighs 18 lbs. The RED weighs 33 lbs. Any tips for carving out weight. Hell, I'm 47 years old! That battery mount/Drive mount is WAY too damn heavy! The cam goes from 10lbs of body weight to 40 lbs quickly!

Interested in hearing ideas.
Click to expand...

Check out my hand held rig using the following Element Technica (ET) accessories: prototype shoulder mount, proto Shock Mount, proto Quick Clamps, proto aluminum power plate adapter, EVF mount, Top Mounts, breakout box, Arri bridge plate (available from RED), ARRI butterfly plate, a single aluminum alloy 15mm rod, an Origo start/stop switch from View Factor, and the RED 18-50 zoom with a screw-in filter. Total rig weight = 26 pounds.

47 years old eh? I'm 60 years old, in real good physical condition, and I run around all day with this rig, and much heavier ones, on my shoulder. The above described rig is about as light as you'll get a fully accessorized RED One camera system. It is well balanced front to back and side to side, with almost all of the weight as low as possible on the camera. Lightness and balance enhances mobility, which in turn helps enable getting a broader variety of shots more easily.

Here's a link. There are several sets of pics of the rig I posted on the thread. Link: http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=16930

A fully-functional hand or shoulder held RED One camera doesn't have to be a big heavy beast. Oftentimes that simply entails letting tradition take a back seat to functionality. Think outside the (matte)box...
 
Well, gym helps. Or two weeks of running around with this baby replaces the gym.

Lightest configuration I could come up with and it works for me.
You should see the pictures this baby took in last two weeks.
I could see my reflection with the camera on my shoulder in the eye pupil of the half torso shot people.

805_1217997074.jpg

1:1 jpg crop from 4K. Much sharper in the TIFF.
Anybody had trouble with a bit soft look of RED 4K lately? :-)

Yes, Yes focus is bit tricky, but I think I am getting hold of it slowly.

Battery is belt mounted, shooting to CFs
 
Mike mount came with the microphone, Sennheiser MKH 418 S S/M Stereo/Surround
Mattebox is LMB-5 4X5.65 L/W
http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=12381

I use 138MM Tiffen adjustable Polarizer when on the water.
Also Tiffen N1.2 in there.
Yes these are RED carbon X rods.

Lenses 18mm Cooke

Part of the frame alike the above was taken from, scaled down 50% for this post.

805_1218002903.jpg
 
MY 1:1 Crops of 4K are also a bit soft.. i think its the film look .. cos i get the picture razor sharp on the LCD using focus assist.. its always a tiny bit washed out. Just sharpen in post. :) But yeah.. i think somehow it always looks better at 50% size.. :S
 
Yes, 50% smaller or 100% sharpen does the trick to make all looking razor sharp.
The upper eye picture actually looks perfect in TIFF, when I converted it to the jpg, it looks like it should get another 100% sharpen kick but it is just conversion to jpg that looks like asking for it.
On the TIFF version you can see the skin hair above the eyebrows.

The balance between sharpen 100% and TIFF is just on mark, anything sharper it will show artefacts on fine patterns.

Now if you imagine that the upper eye picture comes from 40” screen diagonal diameter and you step back 3’ from your screen and you have this eye from torso part of the person, you have more details that you can handle.


And remember there is a small motion blur there, the person was moving.
Shooting this with 1/2000 gets it even sharper but we don't want to do that do we?

Shutter here is 1/48. Try to get razor sharp 12MP DLSR picture of the playing kids at this speed, I wish you good luck.
It is moving picture and when you freeze it to show a single frame, it is all a different ball game. For presenting razor sharp freezes if you want to get this frames perfectly sharp you have to use 1/2000 shutter.
 
Reactor88 said:
How are the RED carbon X rods doing?
Click to expand...

Just great, saving weight as well.
First I was bit scared to pick the camera up by the single handle of the side of one rod but now I can handle it like this all the time. Still I will not recommend applying full side pressure (right angle lift) of a single handle hooked to the single carbon X rod and hope that it will not crack.
 
shawn weights?

shawn weights?

Shawn,

what are the weights on your RED rig vs the panny?
 
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