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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Yes, focus issues are very (!!!) different in different batches - big problem!

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Sebastian Cramer

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After having constantly issues with the focus and mismatching scales on my two cameras #112 and #1513 I did a test over the past 2 days looking into this topic.
As it has been discussed already in other threads, it looks as non matching back focus issues seem to be more obvious starting in the range somewhere arount ser. # 1000. As a reason for this a change in the design of the OLPF was suspected to be the cause of this problem. I do indeed have the strong feeling optical elements (like OLPF, IR filter, UV filter and the sensor glas surface) are the cause here, as I know those elements can easily add to a total thickness of something like 3mm in other digital cameras.

As the outcome of this test was as surprising as frustrating to me, I decided to put up a new thread as it seem this is indeed something to be addressed and solved immediatelly.

If anybody has the gear and a chance to please verify these results, do it and prove me I'm wrong!!! Please!

To make a long story short, I could not see any shift of focus caused by thermal issues, as all effects could be reproduced exactly the same after a few hours. This doesn't mean there are no thermal issues, but what is addressed here seems to be purely related to the camera itself.

I compared the following lenses on Red #112 and #1513:

Master Prime: 25mm/32mm/75mm,
S4: 25mm/32mm/75mm,
Ultra Prime: 10mm/14mm/24mm/32mm/85mm
Superspeed: 18mm/25mm/35mm/50mm/85mm

MP, S4, UP were supplied by FGV Schmidle, a very respected high end rental house in Munich. Superspeeds came from Ready2Roll, which is my company.
After the test all lenses have been checked on a cine projector using an Angenieux Test Cine 35 slide. Markus Schmidle personally checked all lenses by himself on the projector. The decision to go with the projector was made, because this was the closest to the test environment. Offsets are listed below, as well as the focus readings on the lenses sitting in the projector.

As there is no way to physically measure the flange focal distance like on a 35 camera, backfocus can only be adjusted optically. As I was not sure setting the backfocus on a collimator would exactly project onto the plane on which the light it processed, I decided to set the back focus with a lens I felt to be correct. I took the 75mm Master Prime from FGV in this case.

As I was testing the distance of 1m first, I set up a Putora sharpness indicator at an angle of 45° with it's center at exactly 1.00m distance to the focal plane. I cross checked infinety on #112 and it was dead on too.
The image was monitored in 2K 16:9 in magnifying mode as this gives the most zoom into the image of all settings. Image was checked on a 23" Sony full HD monitor out of the PVW out. An angled Putora with such a big monitor allows for very precise adjustments of the focus. Find a jpg of the test chart taken with the MP75mm. Exact same results could be achieved hours later.
The camera itself was sitting on locked off heavy duty sticks with an OConnor 2060, so consider this as ridged. The position of the bridgeplate was exactly marked for distance to swap the two cameras. And yes, they precicly came back to their position.

On #1513 backfocus was adjusted to the 1,00m reading in the environment described above with the same MP 75mm. This already let to focus position of 3mm beyond infinity on the MP 75mm, which is very very odd...

Anyway, I checked both cameras in exactly the same environment with a constant fixed distance of 1.00m to the center of the Putora. Then I moved the Putora to a distance of 3.00m and did everthing again. No adjustments to the back focus have been made here or at any time in this test.

The results are posted as an image to keep the colums straight.

There is no other explanation to me than the optical path of both cameras inside is VERY (!!!) different. It doesn't have to be the OLPF, it can be anything with a different index of refraction than air.
And yes, quite a few lenses require their own backfocus setting if you want to work properly. There is no such thing as a propper flange focus distance of 52mm anymore. All those film lenses have been designed to only hit the film plane with no other elements in between. Bottom line is, if lenses are properly collimated for film, they are not neccessarily giving a propper reading on the Red, no matter where the back focus is. If you set it up for a different lens, it throws off the others. Looks like this is the digital world.

At a closer look at the readings, they appear not to be random. If the 1m and 3m value is compared for both individual cameras you find in most cases any mismatch is increased in the 3m value, if it showed up at 1m in the first place. So there seems to be some sort of rule to this.

#1513 is completly not usable! Bottom line. No way, not usable.
I'm urgently asking Red to modify this camera to behave like #112.

#112 is much better, but it is still very irritating that there are SOME mismatches in high class lenses, which are MUCH MUCH to heavy to be ignored. "Much better" in this regard means "much better to #1513" but far from being at least what I expect from a professional camera. But at least if mismatches are obvious they can be compensated for, whenever the lens is not stopped to a safer T-stop.

Other than I thought in earlier posts I could not verify a significant change of the focal distance when stopping down. Very few lenses showed a minor shift but in a normal production environment it seem to me this should be compensated by the increase of depth of field. At least with the tested lenses...


Please prove, all of this is wrong! Maybe some of the high end rental houses in the world can set up something similar. I would love to hear this can't be reproduced.

All of this leaves me very frustrated. It is not so much the fact that film and digital is not as close together as it seems in the first place. It's the fact I'm facing those two completely different results on both cameras.

Looking foreward for an explanation to all of this from Red. Thanks.

Best,
Sebastian
 
Ops, somehow the attachements where lost... hope it's working this time.
 
Can you make direct contact with Deanan?

Jim
 
Thanks, Jim. I will tomorrow. It had been two long days.
 
Email me here when you get a chance: d e a n a n - a t - r e d
 
I was doing a prep today and reinforced a similar theory I had a few weeks ago in this thread, http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=13556

Bottom line. Optical elements behind lenses shift measurements and calculations varying degrees depending on the optical design of the lens and it's focal length. YOU JUST CANT BEAT PHYSICS.

Today I had a full set of SuperSpeeds, and a 25-250HR All come up perfect on my camera at all stops. However a 16mm Standard speed I added to the package was focusing 1m shallower than the scale read. We put it on the projector and collimator and it was set perfectly. The Lens mount was aberration free and it didn't have an offensive fillet like some adapted lenses I've seen.

My conclusion was that the retrofocus design of the 16mm Std, is effected a lot differently than the 18mm telecentric super speed. I have seen similar voodoo for the past few months and this is still my leading theory. Waiting to be proven wrong.
 
One small error in your test

One small error in your test

Please prove, all of this is wrong! Maybe some of the high end rental houses in the world can set up something similar. I would love to hear this can't be reproduced.
Sebastian,
Fully aware of the conequences I wil state here that you may very well be wrong.
After reading the chart, you've posted, the numbers , in my opinion point at a fixed error in the flange depth adjustment on your cameras. Camera #112 is closer and camera#1153 has the PL flange further away from the sensor. From the posted numbers(very helpful BTW)I would say that the error on #1153 is between.05-.08mm. The only correction you need to make is to readjust Flange Depth on both cameras with the 10mm lens. Not a slanted chart, squared with the camera as best you can and at the nearest focusing distance like 2'(.7m) for the 10mm. Wide open(I know it's hard to see)Once you do that you are, speaking in digital terms, OVERSAMPLING all longer lenses. This is not a digital issue IMHO. Techs in rental houses have been dealing with it since the beginning. Of course they have FFD gages....
one more thing: take your time verifying the focus adjustment(Once you've adjusted the camera keep turning the focus ring on the lens and make sure you come up the same every time both directions from CF and infinity)

I hope that helps and the best of luck.
Jacek
 
Jacek,
do you know what a fix change in flange focal distance means in the range you are talking about? No way. I think we have to accept this is not film. New world, new rules.
Like I said, change back focus here, shift it there. As long the sensor is not a simple flat plane with nothing in front of it, we are not in film world. But as the cameras show you can face some errors or you can face a lot of errors.
 
Please, try it

Please, try it

Jacek,
do you know what a fix change in flange focal distance means in the range you are talking about? No way. I think we have to accept this is not film. New world, new rules.
Like I said, change back focus here, shift it there. As long the sensor is not a simple flat plane with nothing in front of it, we are not in film world. But as the cameras show you can face some errors or you can face a lot of errors.

Sebastian,
I know exactly what this FFD change will do: I've been a lens technician since 1987. And I've delt with it every day ever since. This is what the numbers that you've posted tell me.
If you don't want to take my advice I won't be pissed or anything.
Just trying to help....
Jacek
 
I'm with you Jacek. Wide lens, squared even focus chart, open T-stop wide, set back focus. It is the way we have confirmed and set back focus for a long time on current film and digital cameras because it works.
 
Yep, I work at a rental house in hollywood, and our lens tech who has been doing this for around 30 years would agree that setting back focus with a long lens is a mistake, as longer lenses are more forgiving due to the shallower depth of field (although this is a little counter-intuative).

Use the wide lens as the last two posts suggest, and you should come up with a much more accurate backfocus. also, double check at 4 or 5 feet as well because at cf, the distances you might be off at the barrell of the lens can be tiny measurements caused by bending a tape measure slightly, which can make the difference.
 
Yes, I agree with what you saying. But this still would not explain that the same Master Prime 75 is giving a propper reading for 1m AND inf. on one camera while this is not possible on the other.
All I'm saying is if I'm calibrating with this lens on both cameras these are the values im getting.
 
Well, I'm no lens tech at all.

However everything I've seen points to Jacek being right on.

I would say take your UP 10mm and do just what Jacek said to do. Then go back and see what your Master Prime 75 is doing.

Thats what I would do...
 
Mhhmm, it's not that easy to see it with the 10mm... I suggest to use UP 14 or UP 24. Are we are in an agreement these are ok? Let me know your choices. I'm curious to see it myself.
 
We use an UltraPrime 14mm on a daily basis for exactly this work. A 16mm is acceptable as well but I like the 14.

A 75mm lens has a relatively deep depth of focus (do not confuse this with depth of field). If you mount a lens on an optical collimator, you can see that the longer the focal length the more forgiving the back focus adjustment due to the longer depth of focus. Basically all the lines of light are coming in fairly straight. A wide angle is just the opposite, with an extremely narrow depth of focus, so back focus has to be dead on or it will be soft if it's just a few microns out. Abel Cine Tech's tollerance is +/- 5 microns. On a 75mm, you might be out 50 microns or more and not notice.

Please understand that this has nothing to do with the sensor technology and is purely about lens optics. I'm not saying that your findings are incorrect -- I have no idea. But I do know that they should be based upon setting up with a wide lens such as the 14mm and not with a long one such as the 75mm.
 
I had thermal issues with my red #945 that caused sever backfocus drifts. After 2 hours or so the backfocus was off.

I'm not saying that this might be the case here, all I'm saying is that if the screws of the mount's collar are not really tight backfocus starts drifting when the mount warms up. This seems to be some how different to serial numbers.

It took me almost 2 months to sort that out (thanks to Sean Riggeri) and while dealing with this issue I found out that unsing my proper collimated 18mm SuperSpeed does a terrific job for ajusting backfocus (one minute job). Personally I know how frustrating it is when trusting in lens marks is not possible.


Hans
 
hi hans,

did you find, as back focus drifted, that areas away from the center of the frame would go soft first?

we had a problem with an actor's belt in the center of frame being sharp whilst his eyes were soft - even though we should have had a depth of field of several feet. back focus had been verified earlier in the day with a properly collimated 18mm master prime - not as wide as one would like, but surely sufficient.

i'm wondering now, in hindsight, if the bolts that held the mount in place were not secure - if the top of the mount was looser than the bottom then as it heated up it might have no longer been square to the sensor - this might explain the problem.

cheers,

david groundwater
 
I did the test again and used both the 24mm and the 14mm out of the test lenses we used for calibration and matched.

The result is:

BOTH CAMERAS ARE GOOD!

I thought, I should post this immediatelly. Not to add to the confusion and speculation.

Deanan, I don't think there is any need to contact you. And thanks, Jacek. You were right. My apologies to Red.

And a big relieve on my side.

Sebastian
 
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