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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Polarizer, Graduated Filters, beyond the IRND...

H

Harky Jewett

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Evin's IRND comparisons have been invaluable and after seeing them I'm going to pick up a set of Pancros.

But I was wondering what people would recommend for a good polarizer and if people have found any other filters useful that haven't been talked about.

I was also wondering what the best way to deal with grad filters is when using the IR cut. Is it as simple as dropping the grad in behind the IRND or would this cause problems?
 
Bump. I'm interested in these questions too. Any thoughts?
 
Harky said:
Evin's IRND comparisons have been invaluable and after seeing them I'm going to pick up a set of Pancros.

But I was wondering what people would recommend for a good polarizer and if people have found any other filters useful that haven't been talked about.

I was also wondering what the best way to deal with grad filters is when using the IR cut. Is it as simple as dropping the grad in behind the IRND or would this cause problems?
Click to expand...

From my experience with B+W 486 filter, the IR filter is going to take IR out of the part of the picture not covered by your ND. Makes it look washed out and very difficult to put any contrast in. I found this out by mistake when a 486 was left in the lense after removing ND's.

Mike C
 
I've talked with Tom at pancro about this and his grads are also IR rated - so I ordered a grad as well as my regular NDIR's. He says don't stack them

He is also contemplating making stronger ones to accommodate the higher ISO range of the Red.

Putting the polariezr behind the NDIR is OK, he says.

aloha,
Keith
 
Costelloe Michael said:
From my experience with B+W 486 filter, the IR filter is going to take IR out of the part of the picture not covered by your ND. Makes it look washed out and very difficult to put any contrast in. I found this out by mistake when a 486 was left in the lense after removing ND's.

Mike C
Click to expand...

Thats funny, it should do the opposite. I always shoot with the B&W 486 and its easy to ad as much of contrast you want in Red Cine and FCP!

Robert
 
Here's my basic filter kit:

Optical Flat
ND .3
ND .6
ND .9
Pancro .9
Pancro 1.2
Pancro 1.5
Roscoe IR Hotmirror
ND Grad SE .6
ND Grad SE .9
ND Grad Attenuator .6
138mm Schneider True Pol
1/8 Black Promist
1/4 Black Promist
1/2 Black Promist
# 3 Glimmerglass
80C
1 Sepia


On my wishlist are Ultracons, Sunset grad series, Gold sepia, Classic SoftFX
 
i think everyone(including me) still needs a bit more clarification.
maybe make a shoddy diagram of what works and what doesnt.
eg. light---------->IRCut- ND- polarizer- lens- camera
yay or nay?
 
Scribbles,

Well, as Keith said, Stacking IRND's is problematic due to internal reflections off the hot mirror. (But did he mean not to stack a regular ND behind an IRND either?)

I've been told by Tom that you should stage the IRND as close to the lens as possible, but you shouldn't stage any filters in front of it (due to internal reflections).

If you're using a separate IR Cut, your IRCut - ND- polarizer- lens is correct I think.

Florian, Thanks for the list! If anyone else could post their kit it would be greatly appreciated.

Harky
 
I used Pancro mirrors (up to 2.0!) and there is no problem putting them in front of grads, PL, .3 or .6 ND or Colour filters. The results are great and no undesired reflections or tint have been detected.

My setup includes Arri LMB-5 with Arri Mattes, using Master Prime lenses. Different setup may have different results (for example if the lens front element is highly reflective or filers are not shaded from stray rays). These are all important considerations.
 
Anyone have experience on Schneider's IR filter? Tiffen does a good job on promoting their glass, but some DP's I met at CineGear last weekend told me they only use Schneider. I don't know enough to have a bias yet. Your thoughts would be appreciated.
 
To Florian and others re: filters. I've asked this question before, but I seem to always get the same general answer of ND's and Polas and that's about it. My question is how extensive a collection of filters do you need in your box to be ready for most common situations. Star and sunset filters to me are not common. I have the opportunity to expand my filter collection, but I don't know if I'm taking on filters I will have little use of, thereby tying up capital and storage space.

Here are some thoughts I would like your input on:
Grad ND: soft or hard edge or none?
Corals: necessary or fix it in post? Solid or grads?
81's for shade situations
Diffusion: Tiffen, Formatt or Schneider?
Warming and cooling filters in gerneral

The feedback I've received in the past seems to be to stay with the minimum and fix in post. But every so often, I'll come across an older DP purist who wants to minimize post work and "do it right" the first time.

I look forward to your thinking in this area.
 
Tail Ends said:
To Florian and others re: filters. I've asked this question before, but I seem to always get the same general answer of ND's and Polas and that's about it. My question is how extensive a collection of filters do you need in your box to be ready for most common situations. Star and sunset filters to me are not common. I have the opportunity to expand my filter collection, but I don't know if I'm taking on filters I will have little use of, thereby tying up capital and storage space.

Here are some thoughts I would like your input on:
Grad ND: soft or hard edge or none?
Corals: necessary or fix it in post? Solid or grads?
81's for shade situations
Diffusion: Tiffen, Formatt or Schneider?
Warming and cooling filters in gerneral

The feedback I've received in the past seems to be to stay with the minimum and fix in post. But every so often, I'll come across an older DP purist who wants to minimize post work and "do it right" the first time.

I look forward to your thinking in this area.
Click to expand...


For any camera, you have to decide what you need or want. And for what mattebox size. For the Red for post-color correction (especially if you are grading) I'd stick with basic filters that allow you to handle lighting situations you CAN'T deal with in post.

I for one have a set of Pancro NDIR filters in .6, .9, 1.2, and 1.5 on order. I already owned a set of standard Schneider NDs in .3, .6 .9. 1.2, but ordered the Panchros to deal with the IR sensitivity for the Red. For the red you don't need both. A set of Pancros plus a .3 standard ND will suffice.

I also recommend a set of SEVs or vertical 4.5 graduated NDs for dealing with bright skies, etc. I have 3,6, 9's.

You need a pola, recommend 138 round true pola.

Don't bother with warming filters, diffusion, corals or specialty stuff. That's all much better handled in post where you have more control and it's not "baked" into your shot. But again, that's all personal preference.

My 2 cents. Since you asked for feedback ;)

Cheers,
M
 
Mark, thanks for your insight.

Lara, is that why there are so many filters out there to help the girls still look like girls?
 
How about Pro Mist or Low Contrast filters? Does anyone use them?
 
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