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Stop Motion

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b.halp

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Hi All,

I am shooting a short that one of the scenes, I have a stop motion of a paper crumbling on its own...
Does the RED have a single-frame option?
Just wanted to see if people had tips and experiences to share on shooting Stop Motion with the RED.

Thank You!
 
Yes.

It is a good idea to get yourself an external start stop button.

It's part of the timelaspe feature, rather than set an increment you can set it to trigger one frame at a time, much like a film camera.

David

PS: if you like stop motion WATCH THIS!!!!!!

http://www.vimeo.com/993998
 
Stop Motion

just use a DSLR and you will be in the same ballpark as the red and it will be much easier to use for stop-motion
Click to expand...

Excuse me, but no it wont! For one thing the RED-ONE stitches all your single frame captures into a single editable clip....
 
IMHO the advantage of the RED over a DSLR is for "timed" stop-motion animation. If you can rehearse the scene/shot to perfection and make each change inside of a certain time-period (say 20 seconds) then you can shoot a single clip for several hours straight without having to worry about hitting a start/stop button. I don't know of any DSLR's that will allow you to take one shot every X seconds for long periods of time.

I'm not so sure that "stitching all your single-frame captures into a single editable clip" is much of a benefit considering you could automate that process fairly easily.

-shooter
 
I use my digital SLR's all the time to do a lot of time lapse work and other fun stuff. I will be using my red for some of this work with the time lapse mode but for the bulk of my work the flexability of my digital SLR's the red does not give me the ability to have a much longer exposure than 1 second. And I use some times 3 to 50 seconds depending on what Im shooting. Im sure the red will do a great job but for now Im going to stick to my digital SLR's for most of my work.
 
Dslr

Dslr

Use a DSLR. You can open the numbered files in quicktime as a movie and export to the codec of your choice. It's the easiest thing in the world. Canon makes a nice remote control, or you can tether the camera to your computer.
 
Yes, get a remote start from Wes (Panatech) or from CVB. I think it's the bottom port that triggers TL and single frame.
I did some stop motion with my Red for a Hyundai commercial and it worked great! We had some DSLRs too but the Red worked perfectly. The only issue I had was a strange artifact when the object in the frame was in motion. We discovered it just fooling around on the prelight. Was not a problem as the puppets did not move.
See my post about it:
http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9798
Stuart, this was with Build 13 and the word from Red was that this was known and would be fixed for 15. I have not had the occasion to do more stop motion and forgot about it until now. Do we know if it indeed was fixed?
Cheers,
Harry
 
Filter wheel for stop motion.

Filter wheel for stop motion.

If you make a longer stop motion work in the future using a RGB filter wheel in front of the camera can give you better color than using a Bayer filter.

I a DSLR you can select the three exposure auto bracket and make 9 exposures per frame -1 stop red, 0 red, +1stop red, -1 green 0 green +1 green, -1 blue 0 blue +1 blue, then FUSE those images into the result frame.

In my program I take the RED channels from the Bayer image for use with the external RED filter, the GREEN channels from the Bayer image for use with the external GREEN filter, and the BLUE channels from the Bayer image for use with the external BLUE filter, this gives higher purity. You could just use the Green Bayer filter since it may record Red and Blue at higher resolution since the Bayer filter has leakage, set the saturation to its lowest value and or use monochrome mode.

You could sequence colored LED lighting rather than use colored filters as well.

For the RED ONE (tm) if it does not auto bracket, you could use a 9 filter wheel in front, ND0.6+RED, ND0.3+RED, RED, ND0.6+GREEN, ND0.3+GREEN, GREEN, ND0.6+BLUE, ND0.3+BLUE, BLUE, and make the 9 expsoures with that.

You can get exposures longer than the camera max by making more than one exposure and FUSING them together. You can also do this to reduce the random noise in the images.

You can do GO-MOTION with a stop motion setup by shooting many small movements, maybe 256 per result frame and FUSING the 256 images together to get motion blur. To simulate the 180 degree shutter you would advance the motion by a larger ammount between frame sets for each result frame. The RED ONE (tm) is good for this since it has a large storage frame limit.

In the 35mm film scanner we are using for tests the Canon XTi outputs over USB to a computer with TB, but the download time is about 4 seconds per RAW frame, in the RED ONE (tm) the delay after each exposure should be shorter(?) since the frames go to the HardDrive or CF at high speed, so the throughput should be better.
 
My experience is that an DSLR is more convenient, because it's smaller and easier. But the RED looks nicer because of the CINE lenses I've used. This is of course a matter of preference.

But I've done footage were it's RED and then timelapse from a NIKON and the red footage looked more "cinematic".


Fredrik
 
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