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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Build 16 ISOs...

I spend way too much time reading these threads...

Bring the @#@# Build !!!! :)
 
But even if you don't have ND's, lowering the ISO doesn't make the sensor less sensitive, so I don't get how it could prevent you from blowing out the highlights. If your iris is stopped down, and you're out of ND's, and you don't want to change your shutter speed, but the image is STILL too bright, then lowering the ISO doesn't really do anything, does it? I mean, your highlights are still going to blow out on the R3D. What am I missing?

Julio

If the native sensor ISO is 320-500 and you raise the ISO in camera... you will be changing curves to the native space (stretching the RAW) to brighten the image. Conversely... if you lower the ISO you are using curves to bend the RAW image the other way.

The more you "stress" the image in either direction, the more the image will suffer.

Jim
 
i don't have my camera yet to tool around with and this thread has finally cleared up a lot of my confusion. i kept reading: the sensor data is raw and exposure is metadata. you can change it all after the fact. then i would read: if you set the wrong ISO your image will get noisy or you'll blast the sky out. kind of confusing. but now i understand 100%. thanks fellas.
 
Yes i can call this Rule Number ONE

how can i have them both the same ,,do you mean we have to check it

with light meter
:detective2:

No... it means that your monitoring path is much more reliable.

Jim
 
would you have announced the b16 features/improvements 2 years ago...and that it will be free of charge...

....i am so happy i put a deposit
 
If the native sensor ISO is 320-500 and you raise the ISO in camera... you will be changing curves to the native space (stretching the RAW) to brighten the image. Conversely... if you lower the ISO you are using curves to bend the RAW image the other way.

Jim
But you'll still have more clipping in the highlights if you're shooting ISO 100 than ISO 500, right ?
 
No... it means that your monitoring path is much more reliable.

Jim

This is a good new.
With Build 15, i always felt that the LCD had to show a "too dark" image when the exposure was OK in fact.

Now, is it what you call REDSPACE ? a specific LUT ?
 
I know I've been your biggest pain in the ass, but I'm in the same boat as slinnn. I can understand the concept of stressing the Raw image, but if the image is clipped, there is nothing left to stress. At least that's what I have come to believe. I am not a camera manufacturer, though.
 
seems like he is avoiding answering that question. perhaps they have come up with a fancy way of mucking with the voltage coming off the sensor when you change iso, so that there is minimal clipping. but as you back down the sensitivity of the sensor, you loose sharpness?????

or maybe the ozone is too high in this office, and I'm just tripping.
 
always welcome for a good wine (it is called "badischer wein" here) and a lunch from this area. every red owner indeed.
and the red team of course.
Maybe you should rephrase that offer once the Scarlet hits the production line. Actually, there are more than 4000 Red Ones ordered now...

Anyway, I'll take a Nacktarsch, isn't that in Baden? :)
 
I know I've been your biggest pain in the ass, but I'm in the same boat as slinnn. I can understand the concept of stressing the Raw image, but if the image is clipped, there is nothing left to stress. At least that's what I have come to believe. I am not a camera manufacturer, though.

Clipping comes from the wrong exposure at any ISO. ISO 125 will not clip any less than ISO 2000... assuming you set the appropriate T-stop for each given the available light.

Jim
 
If the proper exposure for a given scene is ISO 125 @ T4, then the proper exposure for that same scene is also ISO 500 @ T8... or ISO 500 @ T4 with a .6 ND. Neither will clip. The ISO 125 image will have less noise (none) but will be a touch softer than ISO 500, which will have extremely low noise. Pick your poison.

I find generally that there is more situations that call for ISO 500 given lighting conditions and contrast. Unless you are only shooting in bright light, ISO 125 is impractical because it is too slow (for me).

Jim
 
I would think that a lot of these choices depends on where you want your depth of field to be. If I want a shallow dof and want to shoot at T4, then I'm going to work around that with the both ISO setting and NDs.

Absolutely agree... as soon as you go inside, if you set ISO 125 you have run out of lens (T-stop).

Jim
 
True or False (for clarification):

The ISO setting on RED doesn't actually have any effect on what the RAW sensor captures. It is strictly a way of recording how you rated the camera for metering purposes and defining your intentions of how the footage is to be interpreted, both for viewing and in post. Therefore, given the same lens settings, ISO 320 and ISO 1000, et all, will record identical images, but will simply default to a different look when first imported into RA or RC (and will match each other if you manually override the ISO metadata setting in post).

That is my understanding and I want to be sure it is right...
 
True or False (for clarification):

The ISO setting on RED doesn't actually have any effect on what the RAW sensor captures. It is strictly a way of recording how you rated the camera for metering purposes and defining your intentions of how the footage is to be interpreted, both for viewing and in post. Therefore, given the same lens settings, ISO 320 and ISO 1000, et all, will record identical images, but will simply default to a different look when first imported into RA or RC (and will match each other if you manually override the ISO metadata setting in post).

That is my understanding and I want to be sure it is right...

False. If you change your T-stop in conjunction with your change in ISO, it is not just metadata. This topic has come up several times. If you just change your monitor path, you are correct. But if you set exposure to match the new ISO, it is NOT just metadata.

Jim
 
What if you change just the ISO?

(one of tyler's given factors is the same lens settings)
 
What if you just change the ISO?

(one of tyler's given factors is the same lens settings)
it's about how much light you are allowing to hit the sensor. The best example is when you understand that moving ISO is moving the grey value. Moving the apreture is letting more light hit the sensor.

Exposing at 5.6 at 100 125 320 500 or 640 is always the same thing. Rate the camera and meter at 320 400 or 500 and you can do what you want.

David
 
What if you change just the ISO?

(one of tyler's given factors is the same lens settings)

Then you are just changing the monitor path... and just metadata. When it leads to an exposure change, it is not just metadata. I guess I said that before...

Jim
 
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