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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Testing shows...

Jannard

Jannard

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After some of the comments from today's posts we decided to test thoroughly to see what the ideal ISO is for the RED ONE camera... least noise with the widest range.

Answer is: ISO 320

Because the noise is so much better in Build 16, ISO 400 and ISO 500 are well within the reach of being "normal" ISO ratings for additional speed. The spread is tight in either direction of ISO 320, and we can easily recommend ISO 200, 250, 320, 400, and 500 as easy shooting solutions with little downside. Save ISO 640, 800 and 1000 for the times when you are in low light only and need them. ISO 1280, 1600 and 2000 are to be used in a pinch. ISO 100, 125 and 160 can be used for extremely low noise results, but there is a slight penalty in resolution and latitude. I said in an earlier post a few days ago that there was no penalty. I have now changed that to a slight or small penalty.

We will continue to give updates as we test. We assume that our customers will do their own testing to see where their tolerance is for image quality vs. convenience.

I will say that Build 16 is much easier to hit proper exposure which means less stress during post. Less stress means less noise. All in all, we are exceptionally happy with the way Build 16 is coming along.

Jim
 
Thanks for that... looking forward to testing Beta 16 .
 
Dear Jim,

We will begin shooting a feature film in late July-August-September with some pretty important actors. I'd like to have enough time to test the new Build 16 thoroughly. I can't imagine using any other build when the time for principal photography comes, but I wouldn't enjoy having to test it only for a couple of weeks beforehand.

How can I apply to be a Beta tester for Build 16? I'd be very excited and much more relaxed if that would be possible. Getting to know the build in-depth and at a comfortable pace would mean a lot.

Best regards,
George
 
Peter Jackson has rated RED one at 320 ASA before after his tests for the CTL.

Stew.
 
eastco said:
How can I apply to be a Beta tester for Build 16? I'd be very excited and much more relaxed if that would be possible. Getting to know the build in-depth and at a comfortable pace would mean a lot.
Click to expand...

When a build is pushed to beta, it will be on RED.com/support for download for TESTING PURPOSES ONLY. Everyone with a delivered camera will get an email from me announcing beta release. I also post on here when it is released.

Thanks, BC
 
Sorry, I might be a dumbass, but are you saying now that in a high contrast scene we would be best to stick at 320 ISO for the greatest lattitude?

I read previously that with build 16, in high contrast situations we should crank it up to 500.
 
320 is the sweet. If you want most bank for your buck, park it here when looking at both sides of the equation and balance is sought, but don't let it stress you if you have to move around a bit.
 
Think like this*:

These are not accurate "charts" nor is the language used a professional vernacular. This is simply meant to clear things up.

320
Puts your latitude midpoint some where in the middle for the greatest range of both blacks and whites.

~~~~|---------------18%---------------|
00....|....|....|....|....50....|....|....|....|....100

As you go up in sensitivity you are reassigning photo sites from the black end to the white end. You get less "black info" because less space is devoted to it. Hence the noise in the blacks and you magically getting an image where there was none. Higher or faster ASA in red will give you more "room" for bright pixels with obvious trade offs.

1000

|-------18%-----------------------|
00....|....|....|....|....50....|....|....|....|....100


Going down to a slower ASA is the reverse. As you raise the midpoint of your latitude you will lose "space" for your whites and gain it for your blacks. The irony of this is if you what a clean dark image you need alot of light, but this is nothing new.

100


~~~~~~~|----------------------18%--------|
00....|....|....|....|....50....|....|....|....|....100

+ the squiggles are just for spacing
 
Frzendreams said:
As you go up in sensitivity you are reassigning photo sites from the black end to the white end.
Click to expand...

This is the part that well...confuses me and if someone could educate me I would appreciate it.

Is this reassigning of photosites, via I assume ASA ajustments, occuring by what means? Transfer function, gamma ajustments, LUTs, what? (my understading of these terms is just enough to be dangerous.)

Also, does the ASA adjust occur POST capture from the sensor? I believe this to be the case, but after a while of reading posts you begin to doubt your understading.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe what they are saying is that ISO is only metadata in the sense that changing the ISO does nothing directly to the data that is stored. Nothing at all. It only stores the ISO as metadata.

With that being said, if you change the ISO it WILL change the image as it is being seen on the LCD, viewfinder, or any monitors connected to your camera at the time. If you are in fact judging your exposure from these images you will adjust your aperture accordingly. Therefore, your aperture will be set according to whatever ISO you are viewing.....on the monitor, lcd, or viewfinder......at that time. This WILL effect the image recorded from the sensor, as it will effect the amount of light hitting the sensor. So, now you have either properly exposed the sensor, underexposed the sensor, or overexposed the sensor. Once you take this data into post, much like shooting film, you will be left to deal with the exposure you have.

ISO makes no changes to the sensor. Nor does it do anything directly to the data. It only effects your judgement when setting exposure.

It may take a bit of thinking. I just think of the sensor as a film stock. I can shoot at whatever ISO I want, that doesn't get around the fact that it has a recommended ISO and my choices will have some effect on my image.
 
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