Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Pinhole?

Patrick Tresch

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Messages
5,808
Reaction score
85
Points
48
Age
55
Location
Switzerland, Lausanne
Sorry for that... even if it seams creazy...

Did some one try to do a pinhole camera with the RED ONE?:usd:

I wonder if there would be enough light... but the effect would be interesting!

I'll try that one.

Good that I don't have to rent optics :clown2: !

Lol.

Pat
 
Just drill a hole in the body cap, put some tin-foil over it and poke a tiny hole with a pin. Using tin-foil will let you experiment with different pinhole sizes. I have no idea if this will work or not, but it's worth a try! Just remember to take the body cap off the camera before you start drilling. :)
 
I would guess that the pinhole setup would only be good for timelapse and long exposure work. I've built my share of pinhole cameras over the years, even one that shoots 3D images for that reduser contest last year. A pinhole cap for RED might be something I try someday when I'm really, really bored or decide to start doing drugs or something.
 
I've built my share of pinhole cameras over the years, even one that shoots 3D images for that reduser contest last year.

I remember! But the thread dissapeared in the BIG forum crash. Isn't it?

Thanks for your input.

I thought light would be a problem... perhaps outdoor with 2500 asa?...

See you.

Pat
 
It's glad to see I'm not the only one thinking about this. Having received my camera but still waiting on my lens, this is something I've been seriously considering.
 
we tried this with a piece black foil . It gave us some great macro effects. We originally had tried this for the flare effect that it gives you when looking at the sun, but never got around to pointing it into the sky during daylight.

You do need a hell of a lot of light though.
 
I had some great fun with my pinhole RED today. I've put one of the shots up on youtube if anyone wants to check it out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvzcM7jkGN0&fmt=18

If I have more time I might try to do a bit more research on how to get a better result.

Great to see a picture!!!

What are those black scratches?
What asa did you have to shoot with?

Thanks

Pat
 
Those scratches are a hair and some dust on the sensor.

That footage was shot at ISO 1000, 25 fps, 1/50 shutter.
 
Pin hole with a lens = sharper image.

Pin hole with a lens = sharper image.

Sorry for that... even if it seams creazy...

Did some one try to do a pinhole camera with the RED ONE?:usd:

I wonder if there would be enough light... but the effect would be interesting!

I'll try that one.

Good that I don't have to rent optics :clown2: !

Lol.

Pat

Because the circle of confusion will be LARGER than the pinhole and if you make the pin hole too small diffraction will make the circle of confusion MUCH larger than a very small pin hole, it is best to add a good lens along with a medium size pin hole.

The smallest you want the pin hole is about f/64 that would limit the resolution to about SD.

If you put a lens behind the pinhole, or in front (you get more flare that way though) the lens should have a focal length shorter than the pinhole distance so that the combo will be sharpest between INF and close up.

To make a 25mm pinhole use:

Drill or laser pinhole = 25*(1/64)=0.39mm or about 0.015"

Lens use an achromatic lens of about 18mm to 20mm close to the pin hole.

You should be able to mount these in a PL body cap. Not sure if 25mm will clear the edge of the PL mount ring at 25mm FL, might need to be 28mm or more to not clip the corners at 4K.

To make it wider you can put a negative element in front of the pin hole and the positive lens behind. There should be some distance between the pinhole and the negative lens so a tube would be needed to support the negative lens. If you use an Aspheric wide angle lens in front of the pin hole you can get a wider "lens" without as much barrel destortion as you would get with a simple negative lens. You can use a negative achromatic lens in front of the pinhole to get less color fringe and wider angles.

f/64 should work for sunlight with EI 320 to 800 or so.

I made some "drawings" to show this idea.
 
Back
Top