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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

In pursuit of a BNC breakaway

Shawn Nelson

Shawn Nelson

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Okay, I bought three DIN-to-BNC cables from Red, 2 of the 3 have been destroyed on rental due to people tripping the cables with enough force to completely sever the cables. So I need breakaways on these, fast!

I thought about something like the ET breakout box, but that would make it worse! Instead of the cable severing, perhaps the pins would have been ripped out of socket, yikes!

So Ken Kupelian (Reduser Chazmo, btw Ken, change to your real name!) and I were brainstorming and though about getting a maleBNC-to-femaleRCA and then a femaleBNC-to-maleRCA and doing that.

Here's a picture. It works, kinda. Picture comes through on the monitor, but there's this horribly distracting white digital specs, reminds me of a digital version of film grain. My guess is from an unhealthy amount of signal degradation.

Can anyone else suggest a better way to get safety breakaway capability on my BNC?
 
On BNC patch panels you get BNC connectors without 'nipples' -- perhaps you could persuade ET to make a version of their breakout with no 'nipples' (I think they might be called retaining posts properly). Or you could file them off.

Limits the signal loss, will work with any BNC cable and looks just like a normal BNC.
 
Shawn, the Red cables are doing exactly what they're designed for. To break before the stress applied damages the camera mounted mini-bnc.

Your BNC adapter will not last the distance as you will need to nash tape the connection to make it secure and even then the result will be the same. Stress to the cable resulting in the cable breaking and hopefully before any damage to your camera body.

A properly engineered breakout adapter will not give. The BNC cable will break before you pull the connector from the adapter.

From my rental experience I have replaced countless BNC cables on set. I have yet to pull a 2/3" camera to replace a BNC connector on it.

Why people would shy from spending $500 to protect a $17500 investment is beyond me.

I'm sure ET or Sim can give you the tolerances of their adapter.
 
Rocketeer said:
Why people would shy from spending $500 to protect a $17500 investment is beyond me.
Click to expand...

I can't see how it protects it. In fact, these incidences have made me think my camera is better with the self-ripping Red cables.

Sure, the camera looks cooler with the breakout, and it's more convenient, but how it protects my camera hasn't yet been explained to me.
 
Shawn Nelson said:
I can't see how it protects it. In fact, these incidences have made me think my camera is better with the self-ripping Red cables.

Sure, the camera looks cooler with the breakout, and it's more convenient, but how it protects my camera hasn't yet been explained to me.
Click to expand...

The mini-bnc connectors are mounted directly to a pcb. Should you lose a connector (in the unlikely event the break away cable failed)your camera will need to go back to Red.

Do not disregard the convenience factor. Simply not having the adapter may cost you a booking to a Red Owner that does.
 
Shawn Nelson said:
I can't see how it protects it. In fact, these incidences have made me think my camera is better with the self-ripping Red cables.

Sure, the camera looks cooler with the breakout, and it's more convenient, but how it protects my camera hasn't yet been explained to me.
Click to expand...

um, because the ET breakout box is screwed into the camera using a fine course thread bolt...
 
That breakout box is well attached - it isn't going to rip off the camera and break your connectors. It could result in your camera or tripod getting pulled over I guess.

One idea that also occurred to be (along the lines of nippleless BNC) is to file the retaining posts of a BNC barrel connector and running a small lead from camera to a secure mounting point (tripod leg or something) with a non-locking BNC barrel connecting to the main lead. If you really want the break away thing...
 
The simplest solution is what people have been doing for decades -- tie off the cable. The RED side handles are a perfect place to tie the cables around before plugging into the camera. If you are not using that try tying to the tripod pan arm. This will be the new strain relief point instead of the connector or the lightweight cable (which should be replaced anyway in my book).
 
What you are seeing Shawn is referred to as sparkle. This is from the signal loss of the BNC-RCA-RCA-BNC. The RCA connector was not designed to handle the Frequency / bandwidth of the HD Signal. We see sparkle in the CANARE L-5CFB after a while, or if it gets kinked etc. It was designed for static installations. Once it exhibits sparkle, I cut it up and throw it away. Yes it's still adequate for SD use, but I can't afford the possibility of it creeping back into rental.

Hate to say this but welcome to the rental world. There will always be some expendable items in your kit. But as Rocketeer mentioned, the cables are doing what it's designed to do, adapt and protect. I'm sure people would much rather replace a $35 cable that pulls apart rather than send their camera back to the O.C. cuz it hit the deck when someone tripped over a cable. If you will be renting on a regular basis, it may be advisable to invest in several back up cables, of each one that goes with the camera. My experience is for every cable that goes out with the camera, we send a second as back up. With the DIN-BNC, I would think at least 4 with the package, if you are seeing such a high rate of failure / damage with these.

Another solution is to ensure there is always enough cable slack so if someone does snag it, it's not too short that it yanks on the camera. Dylan's idea if a strain relief is good, but, would not file the locking studs off the connector, as this is the only secure shield connection, with the outer nut of the BNC being spring loaded.
 
We've also been through 3 mini-BNC cables (only another 12 cables to go until the cost matches the Element Technica breakout box!). As far as I know the breakout box screws into the side of the camera, so there shouldn't be any stress on the mini-BNC connectors (especially if your BNC is tied off too). I was wondering if anyone has been able to repair their mini-BNC adaptor cables - is it a case of simply crimping it like you would with a regular BNC?
 
Go to markertek.com.
Get a couple of 12" Canare 61L BNC 9(F) to BNC(F).
Get a package or Rip-Ties.
Get some BNC barrel connectors.
Plug in the Red adapter, then plug in your new cable.
Secure the Rip-Ties to the short BNC cable. When you're out there in the world shooting, velcro the short BNC to a hard point on the camera (top rods in my case)
The Rip-Tie will bear the brunt of pulling. If the 12" BNC cable get ruined, it's an easy fix or throw it away. Before we had Rip-Ties, I would make one with a climbing strap and velcro. In 20 years I've never had a BNC fail on a film or broadcast camera.
If pulling on the cable pulls the camera over, your tripod is not sturdy or secured enough. Plus someone (the AC or a top-notch PA if the AC's at craft service) should be standing by the camera and alert at all times.
You can try the barrels without nipples and secure it loosely with camera tape, but in my experience the only time they're NOT falling out is when someone yanks on the cable.
Cheers,
Harry
 
Shawn Nelson said:
Sure, the camera looks cooler with the breakout, and it's more convenient, but how it protects my camera hasn't yet been explained to me.
Click to expand...

Cool factor aside, it does protect the camera. The SIModified Breakout Box has 4 screws into the body of the camera. The stress from a cable pulled on set will not tear the box from the camera....in fact, the cable will fail long before the Breakout Box will.

On the SIModified box, if you break one of the BNC's, undo the 4 screws and change connectors. All 4 are on 2" long leads, so you can make any one of the BNC's on the outside configure with any of the mini DIN connectors on the side of the RED.

Protection, convenience and redundancy.
 
When I am doing hand held with lots of extras, or in a situation where some one may trip on the BNC, I plug in the BNC but I don't twist the end. that way it just pops off.

I know some guys who dragged a Viper behind a car rig by the BNC connectors after if fell of the car rig. BNCs held up fine, rest of the camera.........

Nick
 
arrinick said:
When I am doing hand held with lots of extras, or in a situation where some one may trip on the BNC, I plug in the BNC but I don't twist the end. that way it just pops off.

I know some guys who dragged a Viper behind a car rig by the BNC connectors after if fell of the car rig. BNCs held up fine, rest of the camera.........

Nick
Click to expand...

*coughs*

i once managed to pull an attached NLE from the table and out of the rack with an camera head on a motion control... i have to credit hitachi for their robust camera in the 80ies... the camera survived the stunt.
 
I have BNC to MINI mults.

Any connector will pull away from the cable with enough force (about 40 pounds for this type of cable). When the cable and connector separate this protects the connectors on the side of the RED One camera.....A good thing.....

Each added connector will degrade the signal, usually about -10db.


Dave
 
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