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Evin Grant
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- Dec 28, 2006
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Finally the moment you've all been waiting for...:glare:
The mount works! (Duh!)
Seriously, It allows you to mount and shoot with your Nikon lenses and does it in a way that integrates the collimating abilities of the PL for adjustment as well. (Although mine did not need any adjustment). But there is a reality to using a mount that was not designed for cinema use. Unlike a PL or Panavison mount there is no positive locking mechanism to keep the lens barrel perfectly still during focusing or zooming.
That means there is some slight play in the mount when the rotational direction of a focus turn changes. This is no different from a Nikon DSLR body and so not anything out of spec for the mount it's self. Well lubricated lenses with newer rear bayonets will not be affected very much at all but older stiffer lenses with worn bayonets will show considerable image shift when changing focus direction.
Who this mount is for...
Surprisingly I feel this mount is more suited to those who already own PL glass but want options for special effects lenses like Lens Babies, 1:1 macros and super fisheyes that are much rarer in PL. It also appeals to the super low budg crowd who have time but not dollars, it will take a bit longer to set and hit marks using Nikkors, but it will work.
What that means to those buying it:
1. Pulling focus by distance is going to be sketchy.
2. Newer or lightly used lenses will be MUCH better.
3. Well lubricated lenses will be much better
4. Focusing and setting marks by eye will be the rule (But with Red's
tools it works pretty well)
The Birger mount will (theoretically) be a much smoother solution for those looking for professional results with still lenses, mostly because the electronic focus will not be effected by the mount tolerance.
The good news is that the lenses seem to do very well, although they are lower contrast wide open than my T2.1 Zeiss set (No surprise on either point). The 28mm 1.4 and 17-35mm are very contrasty and sharp even wide open.
Changing mounts is a little daunting, It is not really that complicated it just takes a lot of care. I tried the balloon thing that Doug's video showed but I think it got in the way too much and ended up just using the lens tissue bundled up alone.
The wiring harness is a bitch to get flush in the channel and I had to reattach the PL mount twice to get it back to flush but over all it worked out well. It is also important to lube the mounting screws before installation. When I reinstalled my PL mount one screw seized on me and I had to have Red get it out for me. (Which they did at no charge and the same day. Horray red support!) An anti-seizing lubricant is best just apply it using a cloth so there is no chance of it dripping off onto your sensor.
Here are some samples.
60mm Micro Nikkor 1:1 maginification
http://www.4kninjas.net/flicks/NikonTestEye.mov
Lens Baby 2.0
http://www.4kninjas.net/flicks/NikonTestLB.mov
17-35mm @F2.8
http://www.4kninjas.net/flicks/NikonTest1735.mov
enjoy
The mount works! (Duh!)
Seriously, It allows you to mount and shoot with your Nikon lenses and does it in a way that integrates the collimating abilities of the PL for adjustment as well. (Although mine did not need any adjustment). But there is a reality to using a mount that was not designed for cinema use. Unlike a PL or Panavison mount there is no positive locking mechanism to keep the lens barrel perfectly still during focusing or zooming.
That means there is some slight play in the mount when the rotational direction of a focus turn changes. This is no different from a Nikon DSLR body and so not anything out of spec for the mount it's self. Well lubricated lenses with newer rear bayonets will not be affected very much at all but older stiffer lenses with worn bayonets will show considerable image shift when changing focus direction.
Who this mount is for...
Surprisingly I feel this mount is more suited to those who already own PL glass but want options for special effects lenses like Lens Babies, 1:1 macros and super fisheyes that are much rarer in PL. It also appeals to the super low budg crowd who have time but not dollars, it will take a bit longer to set and hit marks using Nikkors, but it will work.
What that means to those buying it:
1. Pulling focus by distance is going to be sketchy.
2. Newer or lightly used lenses will be MUCH better.
3. Well lubricated lenses will be much better
4. Focusing and setting marks by eye will be the rule (But with Red's
tools it works pretty well)
The Birger mount will (theoretically) be a much smoother solution for those looking for professional results with still lenses, mostly because the electronic focus will not be effected by the mount tolerance.
The good news is that the lenses seem to do very well, although they are lower contrast wide open than my T2.1 Zeiss set (No surprise on either point). The 28mm 1.4 and 17-35mm are very contrasty and sharp even wide open.
Changing mounts is a little daunting, It is not really that complicated it just takes a lot of care. I tried the balloon thing that Doug's video showed but I think it got in the way too much and ended up just using the lens tissue bundled up alone.
The wiring harness is a bitch to get flush in the channel and I had to reattach the PL mount twice to get it back to flush but over all it worked out well. It is also important to lube the mounting screws before installation. When I reinstalled my PL mount one screw seized on me and I had to have Red get it out for me. (Which they did at no charge and the same day. Horray red support!) An anti-seizing lubricant is best just apply it using a cloth so there is no chance of it dripping off onto your sensor.
Here are some samples.
60mm Micro Nikkor 1:1 maginification
http://www.4kninjas.net/flicks/NikonTestEye.mov
Lens Baby 2.0
http://www.4kninjas.net/flicks/NikonTestLB.mov
17-35mm @F2.8
http://www.4kninjas.net/flicks/NikonTest1735.mov
enjoy
