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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Nikon 17-35mm f2.8 AFS (The one you've all been waiting for) Review

Birger who is producing the Canon EOS mount will also be producing a Nikon version that will allow you to control the nikon lenses in automatic mode. So yes your nikkor lens would work fine on it as far as I know.

That's good news...since I really love my nikon micro 105/2.8g if/ef and I wouldn't want to trade just to get the ring aperture d version of it...otherwise I look forward to use my other nikon lenses on red (17-35/2.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.4, 80-200/2.8)....I think with some additional focus ring I am set to go....and of course a red one
would be fine too...
 
Red is making a dedicated "cold" manual mount, as I've stated in other threads it is impossible to make a Nikon to PL adapter without teleconvrting optics because of the different flange focal distances. But I too hope the Birger "hot" Nikon mount will be available.
 
Nikkor 17-35/2.8 AFS for sale

Nikkor 17-35/2.8 AFS for sale

Hello all,
I've been hanging onto my 17-35 (I switched to Canon a while back). Now that Birger have come up with an EOS mount for the RED I'm happy to sell this lens.
So, before I stick her on eBay, perhaps one of you might like to consider & if interested, send me a PM.
Regards,
 
Birger canon mount with nikon adapter

Birger canon mount with nikon adapter

Red is making a dedicated "cold" manual mount, as I've stated in other threads it is impossible to make a Nikon to PL adapter without teleconvrting optics because of the different flange focal distances. But I too hope the Birger "hot" Nikon mount will be available.

I will be using the birger Canon mount for access to the ef-s 10-22 for underwater. I thought a lot of the Nikon lenses you were recommending were the older manual lenses and wondered your opinion on using those with a nikon adapter on the birger canon. Any suggestions on a good nikon to canon eos adapter? Which of the manual nikons that you reviewed do you think just don't have the same quality/focus throw/price point in the Canon eos line? How critical is it for color matching to use all of the same brand?

I sold my 20d canon but my thought is to buy a 30d or XTi and the 10-22 plus one long canon IS zoom for dual duty RED and stills. But I would like your opinion on mid focal lengths and primes. Would the Nikons with an adapter be a better option in your humble opinion. The 10-22 really looks like the best option for us UWs so I don't see the point in getting the Nikon mount in either RED or Birger, but adapters are pretty inexpensive.

Here's your original list for nikons:

Nikon standard speed manual prime set
18mm f3.5 $349
24mm f2.8 $165
35mm f2.0 $149
50mm f1.8 $62
85mm f2.0 $149
135mm f2.8 $119
Total $993

Nikon Speed prime set
20mm f2.8 $237
28mm f2.0 $167
50mm f1.4 $76
85mm f1.4 $429
Total $909
 
Nikkor lens to EOS mount adapter

Nikkor lens to EOS mount adapter

Any suggestions on a good nikon to canon eos adapter?

Novoflex is one that I use (http://www.camerahacker.com/Novoflex/EOSNIK.shtml) but there are many variants (eg : do a search on eBay). As you say, so long as you are happy with manual operation, many Nikkors (and other brands) can be mounted on the Birger RED/EOS mount ;-)

Cheers,
 
With the new 14-24 2.8 and 24-70 2.8 Nikon lenses, perhaps we should warn people to wait until those ones have been checked out before rushing into getting this lens?

That is, if they can wait? New lenses are only coming out in November, right?

Bruce Allen
www.boacinema.com
 
Nikon Lenses

Nikon Lenses

Evin,

I have been using the following Nikon lenses with a Redrock M2 attached to a Sony V1E HDV camera and am now planning to use them with my RED camera when it arrives. Do you think I should also get the 17-35mm AFS lens or are the ones I have enough for most purposes. The lenses I have are:

Nikon 28mm f3.5
Nikon 35mm f2.8
Nikon 50mm f1.4
Nikon 135mm f2.8

I also have two zoom lenses but these are not Nikon lenses (although they have Nikon mounts) and I'm guessing that they are not as good quality? They are also quite awkward to use because they move in and out quite a long way as you zoom.

Sigma 27mm - 70mm f2.8
Vivitar 70 - 210mm f2.8 - f4.0

I would really appreciate your recommendations.

Owen
 
Canon 16-35 2.8 series 2

Canon 16-35 2.8 series 2

Has anyone tested this lens on the Red? It's Canon's answer to their new 21MP body soon to be released. A new version of the 16-35mm 2.8 that seems to be much better than the old version. So far it seems to hold up very well against my Leica 19 2.8 in my informal tests.

Could it be better than the Nikon 17-35 2.8?
 
Why does all the test at 2.8 look like poor focus or not sharp???
Is the camera bad at 2.8 or the lens?????

I shoot at 2.8 or below all the time....I hope not!!!!!......back to the Drawing board????
 
I get the feeling that many of the future RED users and owners just don't see the big picture (no pun intended), when it comes to optics.

Would you go on a job with a Genesis or D20 or Dalsa and try and use cheap non-motion picture lenses on the cameras?

I don't think of this camera as an expensive Panasonic or Sony... I think of it as a digital Arri BODY at a 90% discount :-)

I think many people have been fooled by all the pro-sumer HD cameras with built in lenses that do a fabulous job for the prices.

I am curious how my Canon, Leica and Nikon lenses will perform and look forward to testing them, but for my work until proven different will be Zeiss master primes, Cooke or RED lenses if they are as good, (and I hope they are).

Mismatched optics on the best camera will just give you 10MP of junk. So be careful.

Just my 2 cents.
 
Evin: What about the out of focus problem with f2.8??? Is it the camera or lens that has a problem? I shoot at f2.8 all the time!!!
 
It's quite common for lenses to be softer when shot wide-open. Most zooms in particular are sharper when stopped down a little.

The general rule is that a lens is sharpest two-stops closed down from wide-open. That's not an absolute rule though, and some lenses don't degrade as much at wide-open as others, but very few don't get better if stopped down a little.

So in general if you like to shoot at f/2.8, then use an f/2.0 lens at least so you can stop down to f/2.8. And use a good prime instead of a zoom for maximum sharpness/contrast.

Even an expensive Angenieux Optimo zoom shot wide-open at T/2.8 is going to be a little softer than at T/4 or T/5.6.
 
"Would you go on a job with a Genesis or D20 or Dalsa and try and use cheap non-motion picture lenses on the cameras? "

well if one had the budget for those camera's one probably would not use still lens - though it could be a choice .. what you're missing is that on a budget that could afford the above camera's and RED is the camera of choice for that project one would rent cine lens ...
however some are not going to be working on high end projects ... for low budget projects i would think that using a RED 4k with still lens would out perform most digital camera's not listed above ... still lens have been used for years in motion pictures ... minolta 17-35, canon 17-35 , nikon 80-200 & 24-70 have been rehoused for cine camera's - the breathing remains the same ..many 200 - 1200 still lens are used every day in the film business ....
if you look at the test that have been done already between all the different lens you'll find there is not a day-night difference between them - infact you'll find they are very close .. for some the difference between a 50k lens and a 5k lens is about 45k and worth every $$ and for some the 45K difference will buy a complete RED with lens , sticks, computer etc ....
many REDs will not be shooting projects that are going to be shown on a 50ft screen ....
quality still lens are not junk ...
 
Will still lenses work?

Will still lenses work?

The Red is just a DSLR with high FPS capability. If still lenses work for still cameras they will work for the Red camera. It's just important to pick the best lenses and get this whole custom mount thing working properly. When the Birger mount comes out you are going to be seeing a lot of great shots with still lenses. But you will probably see bad shots with still lenses too, because of many factors, the lens used, how it was used, etc. Hasn't anyone ever seen bad footage in a movie shot with cine lenses?
 
I'm just surprised that someone is surprised that the zoom lens image got softer when opened-up all the way. I see that effect all the time, even on expensive zoom lenses (except maybe the new Zeiss Master Zoom, which is a monster in size & weight).

I sometimes use it as a form of diffusion even, knowing that the zoom lens will get a little softer when I open it up all the way. For example, even the Panavision Digital Primo 8-72mm zoom, which is T/2.1, is better if shot at T/2.8, but on a close-up, I sometimes go to T/2.1 for a little softening effect.
 
I'm just surprised that someone is surprised that the zoom lens image got softer when opened-up all the way. I see that effect all the time, even on expensive zoom lenses (except maybe the new Zeiss Master Zoom, which is a monster in size & weight).

I sometimes use it as a form of diffusion even, knowing that the zoom lens will get a little softer when I open it up all the way. For example, even the Panavision Digital Primo 8-72mm zoom, which is T/2.1, is better if shot at T/2.8, but on a close-up, I sometimes go to T/2.1 for a little softening effect.

That's very interesting to know.
 
The Red is just a DSLR with high FPS capability. If still lenses work for still cameras they will work for the Red camera.

Right. And when you consider RED has a crop factor of about 1.5 that means it's going to be shooting through the sweet spot of any full frame 35mm SLR lens. So vignetting and edge distortion should be minimized.

Now I'm not saying these will look as good as the top end lenses when projected at 4K... but they should look good. The real issues are if the focus mechanism is smooth and repeatable and how much breathing is there. So we may spend a bunch of time testing, or buying/selling lenses. Primes will probably be the best.

You can always rent the big guns for bigger projects.
 
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