stockings behind the lens

[David Mullen ASC]

It's just a different look, old lenses versus new lenses with diffusion. If I wanted the artifacts of net diffusion, I'd probably start out with sharper lenses.

 

[Nikhil Kamkolkar]

I came across this article that speaks of using 3M snot tape. Still worried about residue left behind on the circumference of the lens element. I'll need to check with my DP if he's familiar with this process. Just don't feel comfortable doing this on my RED 18-50mm yet... but maybe I'm worrying too much.

http://www.hurlbutvisuals.com/blog/2012/05/diffusion-for-the-digital-age-part-2/

 

[Nick Gardner]

It depends on the lens. Depending on how the rear element of the lens is seated. Some you can use rubber bands, others there really is nowhere to put anything but to glue the edges of the net to the flat part of the rear of the PL mount. In my experience snot tape doesn't hold up well. If you are doing a couple of shots or a quick spot, maybe snot tape will be OK. But on a feature or any other long job, you need a more secure method which is where the CA glue come in handy. I wouldn't do it on my own lenses, and I pity the guy at the renal house who has to clean it up ( I believe the guy who cleaned the lenses after Philomena made more than a few cross FB posts about it ) but it's the best technique I have seen. It allows you to stretch the net fairly tight, and it doesn't need to be redone every third lens change.

Nick

 

[Nikhil Kamkolkar]

Thanks Nick! That's very informative.

 

[Nikhil Kamkolkar]

It's just a different look, old lenses versus new lenses with diffusion. If I wanted the artifacts of net diffusion, I'd probably start out with sharper lenses.

David, are there any filters I can use in front of the lens that afford me a look similar to, if not exactly the same as, net diffusion? I'd rather avoid messing with the rear element if I can. Thanks!

 

[David Mullen ASC]

You can stretch nets on metal filter frames and use them in front of the lens.

 

[Kyle Gentz]

You can stretch nets on metal filter frames and use them in front of the lens.

Any good places to buy those frames?

 

[Nikhil Kamkolkar]

You can stretch nets on metal filter frames and use them in front of the lens.

Thanks David. Doing this with the matte box filter frames seems to be a less risky way to do it. I'll give it a shot and shoot a few tests to see how the look gets affected. Thanks for the tip!

 

[BRANDON JAMESON]

You can stretch nets on metal filter frames and use them in front of the lens.

What is your advice for keeping the net taut and secure and what type of frame might we use?

thanks, Mr. Mullen!

 

[David Mullen ASC]

That's a bit tricky -- Arri 4x5.6 matteboxes use a metal tray that you sit the 4x5.6 glass filter inside, whereas the basic Panavision 4x5.6 matte box has slots that hold 4x5.6 glass filters, so while you could try stretching and glueing the net to a filter tray for an Arri mattebox, what works better is to get a metal frame that is 4x5.6 in the outer dimensions so it sits inside the filter tray. Anyway, Panavision was generous to me and gave me some thin metal frames that they machine in their shop. I first tried to buy some at an expendable supply store but couldn't find one for sale, they only had the 4x5.6 metal trays to hold a 4x5.6 filter.

But before I got the metal frames, I made do for years with frames made from heavy chipboard that I cut from the backing of a notepad of paper. They get slightly warped but will lie flat enough once in the matte box. Here is one of my homemade paper framed net filters:

You basically draw the outer and inner rectangle of the filter onto the heavy chipboard and then with a sharp x-acto knife, you cut out the inner rectangle. Then you cut a large margin of cardboard around the outer lines. You stretch the filter over this and carefully use a stapler or push pins to hold the net material tight. You can easily get a run in the stocking if you aren't careful but luckily one pair of nylons makes a lot of filters. Once you stretch it evenly in all directions, you use white glue all around the edges between the lines of the inner and outer rectangle. Once the glue is dried, you can trim the cardboard frame to the outer rectangle lines, losing the stapled edges (once the glue is dried you don't need the push pins or staples.)

Or you get a metal shop to make the metal frames based on your specifications.

 

[Nikhil Kamkolkar]

That's a bit tricky -- Arri 4x5.6 matteboxes use a metal tray that you sit the 4x5.6 glass filter inside, whereas the basic Panavision 4x5.6 matte box has slots that hold 4x5.6 glass filters, so while you could try stretching and glueing the net to a filter tray for an Arri mattebox, what works better is to get a metal frame that is 4x5.6 in the outer dimensions so it sits inside the filter tray. Anyway, Panavision was generous to me and gave me some thin metal frames that they machine in their shop. I first tried to buy some at an expendable supply store but couldn't find one for sale, they only had the 4x5.6 metal trays to hold a 4x5.6 filter.

But before I got the metal frames, I made do for years with frames made from heavy chipboard that I cut from the backing of a notepad of paper. They get slightly warped but will lie flat enough once in the matte box. Here is one of my homemade paper framed net filters:

You basically draw the outer and inner rectangle of the filter onto the heavy chipboard and then with a sharp x-acto knife, you cut out the inner rectangle. Then you cut a large margin of cardboard around the outer lines. You stretch the filter over this and carefully use a stapler or push pins to hold the net material tight. You can easily get a run in the stocking if you aren't careful but luckily one pair of nylons makes a lot of filters. Once you stretch it evenly in all directions, you use white glue all around the edges between the lines of the inner and outer rectangle. Once the glue is dried, you can trim the cardboard frame to the outer rectangle lines, losing the stapled edges (once the glue is dried you don't need the push pins or staples.)

Or you get a metal shop to make the metal frames based on your specifications.

Mighty nice of you to share all this, sir. Thank you!!

 

[Sam Barnett]

Thank you so much. This is on the list to try ASAP.

 

[BRANDON JAMESON]

Thank you for your continued guidance and generosity of time and talent, Mr. Mullen!