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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Anyone have any experience with the Chinese knock off Steadicams? Like this one?

Some good work there Dave, although you are throwing away some valuable inertia by positioning the rear battery vertically rather than horizontally. Another potential issue is if you are boomed up and have to pan the sled through the position where the battery could hit the arm, or if using a long armpost. Also I'd recommend losing the ball joint mount for the monitor and going with a mount like this that will allow you to adjust tilt on the monitor without affecting other axes while wearing the rig, or even better making a yoke for your monitor so that the balance doesn't shift when tilting.
 
After a few more shoot days, here are updates and thoughts.

Charles (above post), thanks for the advise, I agree with all and have already learned the hard way on both issues.

• The monitor gets bumped when the camera is moving from one setup to the next, requiring a new trim each time. Need to buy a mount as suggested.

• Vert Battery plate less of an issue, but I did machine two plates, one horz & vertial. Initial thinking was vert plate in front of the post, horz extended behind the post. However, with Canon stills lenses the camera is so light that the base only needs one battery. All my cables are currently soldered, so it is a pain in the ass to reconfig. I ordered several ATX 12v power connectors, which will install on post cables and battery plates, for easy reconfig. I do need more pan inertia.

• Added wireless via Paralinx arrow. Currently powered from base via D-tap to USB, USB extension cable though post. Minimal cable clutter, no noticeable increase in weight.

• Ordered thin HTMI cables, waiting on shipping.

• Removed Lang title plate, 15 minute job with a few hex tools, same effort to renstall.

• With tilt plate remove there is not enough room to pass a Lemo or BNC though the post opening, the stage needs to be removed to get the cable though, 3 hex bolts.

• Added thread lock to all important hex screws.

• Need to buy a Bartech, for now I can rent one 10 minutes away.

paralink_left.jpg


paralink_right.jpg
 
Hey Dave, What 15mm Rail blocks did you go with for the bottom of the sled? need to pick up 4 of them but don't want to spend a ton.
 
Charles,

Post length in photo 21" can be reduced to 20" without cutting.

Bottom of base to top of stage 26" (can be reduced to 25"). Should I consider cutting the post, if so what length would you suggest? Right now the camera is so light that I need to place it several inches above the gimbal to the height pictured, which is a 3.5 sec drop time. But, I can always add more gack to the camera.

Started with this and have spent more on updates than original cost. But it is all so low cost, and I'm re-learning a craft I gave up on 10 years ago.

John,

They are the 15mm brackets you recommend! I ended up buying the individual brackets vs the kit with battery plate.
 
Well, seeing as it is a telescoping post, you already have an asset you aren't close to using with that camera setup. It depends on whether you think you might have to fly heavier cameras or not. You could calculate how much post extension you would need to balance a given camera mass, up to the limit of your arm (and assuming you would add a second battery below etc) but I couldn't tell you what the formulas are. My casual guess is that you could lose 4" of post and never miss it.

Adding weight to your camera platform will lower the camera to the gimbal and make the rig fly better, assuming that the performance of that stabilizer will not start to suffer as a result (vibration etc). It's a general preference to fly with a shorter post length and the camera as close to the gimbal as possible. And as we discussed, moving that battery away from the center post. With all of that in place, you'll likely find your work improving significantly.
 
My above comment on spending more than the cost of the Laing is not really fair. As most of the items need to be purchased with any other setup as well (cables, battery plates, wireless). The point I was trying to make is the Laing is so low cost that many of us can afford to spend $1,500 and worst case consider it training wheels with re-sale value.


My running budget. In USD.

1,354.00 Came/Laing purchased on ebay

--
50 (2) generic brand Anton Bauer battery plates - ebay
3.00 Inline fuse
47.59 4 pin Lemo (Fail)
62.25 6 pin Lemo
8 Thin HDMI cable
10 BNC cable for post
20 15mm dia - 300mm long rods for base
100 (5) 15mm mounting blocks - ebay
300 Create two battery mounting plates / ballast and new post base - machine shop
20 Misc hardware store parts and bubble levels
$130 C-Stand and sand bag

751.61 Total
--

$1,800 TV Logic 5.6

Plus Paralinx for wireless transmission.

Pending... $3,000 to $6,000 for a Bartech or RT Motion setup. I need to determine if steadicam operating is really a skill I want to pursue, vs a DP with a case on the truck for 1 or 2 shots in a day, which is my current attitude.
 
If it helps any, David, the purchase of a reputable remote lens control system is actually the one aspect of that package that has applications beyond Steadicam. When I got out a couple of years ago I kept both of my Preston systems and they have been a continual rental for me--they are a fairly standard item on most productions over and above Steadicam applications, as they are used for handheld, remote heads or even studio configuration. Many AC's prefer to work wirelessly these days. If you have a larger monitor on set, they may prefer to pull from that for delicate demanding tasks like longer lens situations. It can be very convenient to keep the wireless system in place all the time to facilitate quicker switches between modes. It's far superior for handheld to have an AC pulling wirelessly than with a physical connection to the lens, even with the whip. Finally: resale on the Bartechs have been quite good.
 
Just picked up a used RTMotion set, can't wait for it to arrive to test it out, i've wanted to get a wireless follow focus for as long as i've been working in production.
 
So what's the consensus boys, are you happy with the performance of these Steadicams?
 
I'll be using a Birger mount with Canon L primes for remote focus.
 
So does anyone know if I need to buy something to be able to mount a v-mount battery to the bottom sled? Also, how are you guys running your wires? Are you just using DIY solutions to go through the post?
 
I am selling mine for $995 (paid $1,389 and $150 shipping). It is brand-new and looks superb, but I've decided I don't have the time to devote to learning how to use it. Free pickup in the NYC area — and possibly free delivery if you're close to Brooklyn. Here's a current eBay listing for the model I have.
 
Vladimir Druts said:
So what's the consensus boys, are you happy with the performance of these Steadicams?
Click to expand...

I just got mine today... I'm honestly shocked at how well the thing is built. It's like a tank. I'm still putting it together but I was assuming it would be thin, light metal but it's rigid all around. The vest is super sturdy.

My only little thing is figuring out where all the pieces go during the assembly, which I'm still working on. There's no instructions that I can find.

But still, I mean, it's like 1/9th the price of a rig that can fly our Scarlets/Epics and the quality is 'at least' as good. I'm still shocked. I do feel a little guilty about not buying American but I'm not a Steadicam operator by trade and I just need this for a couple extra "production value" shots on my shoots. I know they took the best of Steadicam and Glidecam and added to that but still, this thing is great so far.

Also, the guy at the company (Joey?) is awesome to work with... great communication every step of the way. Also, I got it within SEVEN days of paying. Being on the West Coast, I'm sure that sped it up but I bet, on average, it's 7-10 days for people to get it.
 
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Do we have any more videos demonstrating the stabilizer? I would love to get an update on performance from people who've been using this thing.
 
I bought one about a month ago. Amazing quality for the price. Built sterdy, unfortunately comes with no instructions. So have fun putting it together yourself. Other than that, the buyer seems to be increasing the price as time goes by. So you may be better off with the group buy.
 
Hey kinda late joining the party... I canvassed this thread (and others) trying to find an answer but no luck. Would it be possible to use the LAING steadicam WITHOUT the V-mount batteries and external screen at the bottom of the sled? I mean would it still balance?

I'd like to keep it as light as possible and would be using RED VOLTS, the 5 inch for viewing, canon lenses and a the redrock micro remote.

Any ideas?
 
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