Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Filter Strategy

Arnold F.

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2009
Messages
772
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
NYC, Atlanta
I will be shooting on the beach and (I think) I wish to employ both an ND/IRND and polarizer in an O'Box. Does this seem appropriate and am I correct that the ND must be on the outside?
 
Hey man, I am not sure about the order but we always put the pola first (to modify the light) and then the ND (to cut the light) before hitting the sensor.

We just got a variable ND filter from Tiffen (great reviews) cuts from a ND9 to a ND 2.2 so awesome
 
I have an O'Box and have often used a 138mm round polarizer filter in the bottom of the stack. I've never heard anything about the order being important with a polarizer.
 
No order to where the pola goes, can be in the front back or middle. IR goes on the front though. and sometimes, I have found that if you mix up the order you can minimize relections off of the various filters.
 
Pola in back is fine, IR in front of everything
 
It might be that I thought there was an order because I took an IRND seminar at Abel Cine and I remember Mitch Gross saying that something always goes up front. Now that I think of it more, it may have been a hot mirror.
 
Yes, always put the hot mirror in the front. And you generally want to get diffusion as close to the lens as you can, even if this isn't necessarily possible with all matte boxes.

Something to consider adding are graduated NDs and attenuated NDs. Those will help control exposure in the sky and on the beach.
 
Many thanks. Would a graduated ND not darken everything at the top or bottom of the frame?

Yes, always put the hot mirror in the front. And you generally want to get diffusion as close to the lens as you can, even if this isn't necessarily possible with all matte boxes.

Something to consider adding are graduated NDs and attenuated NDs. Those will help control exposure in the sky and on the beach.
 
Do you reckon a 1.2 should be enough for the beach during the day? It's all I have and hope it's enough.
 
Grad NDs are very helpful if shooting towards the sun, shooting on the beach with the sun behind you you wouldn't really need one.

1.2 would get you by but you'll probably shooting f8 or higher depending on how bright the sun is. Might be best to have a .3 or .6 or standby in case. Don't take my advice though, run a few tests first. Also my advice usually isn't the greatest. :)
 
Do you mean get a .3 or .6 to ADD to the 1.2 or to use instead of the 1.2?


Grad NDs are very helpful if shooting towards the sun, shooting on the beach with the sun behind you you wouldn't really need one.

1.2 would get you by but you'll probably shooting f8 or higher depending on how bright the sun is. Might be best to have a .3 or .6 or standby in case. Don't take my advice though, run a few tests first. Also my advice usually isn't the greatest. :)
 
Can I put multiple ND's in the mattebox? Do they have to come before or after the polarizer?
 
Do you mean get a .3 or .6 to ADD to the 1.2 or to use instead of the 1.2?


Sorry for late reply, i got banned from forum....... I mean't 1.2 might not be enough at times so have a 1 or 2 stop ND to stack on top of 1.2 if need be.. but over 1.2 you will need to consider IR
 
Back
Top