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Willytec vs Arri FF5

Clayton Burkhart

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I have the possiblity of picking up a Willytec 15mm follow focus system with two knobs (one's a two speed) and also some other bits and bobs including the single sided unit which the later Arri LFF-1 was based on. The system is in very good condition. On the other hand I could get an FF5 (new) with a single knob and a couple of gears for about $500 more. Obviously, the latter is lighter and more modern, but am tempted by the Willytec.

Opinions?
 
The willytec isn't in production any more, as far as i know, if it gets damaged where will you get spares? FF5 is the one to go for. I have one for sale, base unit and 19mm adapter and gear, just buy yourself a knob and your off.
 
Willytec is a great design IMO. I know a guy who has one and it's great. Too bad they don't make them anymore, and that is a valid concern by Robert.

-ryan
 
If the unit is not for rental, I'd go with the Willitech : It's a marvellous piece of work and you will be able to use it in 1000 different configurations. Willytech are no longer in business, true. But it's built like a tank so if you take care of it and don't loose any pieces, you'll have it for a lifetime with no worries.
Many AC's bought them and the resale value will always be high if it's in good condition.
I would buy a used Willytech over a new O'connor in a second.
If you're not in a hurry, check out for used FF4's popping here and there. Got a complete used kit in almost new condition for about 1k less than retail. You have to be fast on the trigger when they appear. But worth the wait.
Hope that helps.
 
I have an O'connor O'focus DM photo.
Useless.
The gear ratio is so low that I have to turn literally almost THREE full revolutions on some of my CY Zeiss lenses from close focus to infinity. Insane. What were they thinking? By the way I cannot understand why they put the ratcheting mechanism for the sliding bridge butt up against a rail. I bump into it when adjusting everytime. Then I am fiddling with this tiny lever, trying to lift it up and beyond a rail exactly where I can't see it or reach it, under the lens. I just don't get it - Just dumb. If I use the Cine handwheel it's better for gearing, but I would still need to buy a 64 tooth gear to arrive at a single revolution for the lenses I spoke about. Another $1000 if I include the price of extra marking disks and the gear. I am certain the CFF-1 is better (designed by Jim Elias), but it is huge by comparison. Great for 19mm, too big for 15mm LWS in my opinion.

In terms of the Willytec, Frederic is absolutely right. The system is great. Many different combinations. Very modular. Some have called it the Rolls Royce of follow focus's. Built to last for a lifetime and smoooth. The only problem it turns out is that there is no bridge for 15mm LWS. Only 15mm Studio. No one pointed this out to me. Shame though, because the price was right. I could still go single sided !5mm, but it seemed silly to loose the double sided studio functionality.

Speaking of single sided. I was lucky enough to pick up a used Arri LFF-1 recently for $1200. ($5k originally). Best follow focus I have ever owned. Easy functionality. Built to last Great ergonomics and based off the design by you guessd it, the designer of Willytec - Jim Elias. Hmm, havent we heard that name before? Apparently he worked freelance for a few years at ARRI too. You can flip the gear box and it reverses direction, hang it left, right, upside down, slide it in close, far, whatever. Easy to manipulate, yet extremely tight specs. And then you can fit it in your pocket. I actually considered buying the whole Willytec system just so I could have a second one, albeit the forerunner of the LFF-1.

Still on the lookout for a studio system that I like though. I tested the FF5 yesterday. I thought it would be great. I was surprised to find how poor and slow the clamping quick release system is. The large circular locking screw mechanism is inefficient. It was too tight too. I literally could not slide it along a 15mm set of rods. So for adjusting quickly to different lens sizes it was a complete fail. Even the salesperson was struggling with it. Proper gearing ratio though. I can see why the FF4 is so appreciated.

Hmm, maybe I will try a Denz, heard good things about them. Hang on, who was it designed by?
 
HI Clayton,

I have owned a Denz, and it's another "no go" in my book, the thing is super heavy and I was really deceived by the lack of usable configurations. Sold mine half the price I paid because no one wanted it.
As for the willitech, going 15 LW is a breeze with the long dogbone adapter; it attaches to only one rod instead of two and you can still use the short whip to have both sides or just reverse the dogbone to the other side to use the studio knob. The wiilytech would be useless without options to use it in lightweight configuration.
And the O'connor, well, I bought one of the first and had it for a year before selling it back, too many irritants like small butterfly knobs impossible to turn all the way (360) without having to lift it at some point and while the off center knob attachement was a good idea on paper, it just makes it cumbersome to switch over sides and it adds some useless gears in the equation .
I bought it thinking it would be a good replacement for the Willytech but it did not reach my expectations . While I really tried putting the O'connor in the hands of different AC's I can't remember how many times production called back asking for a FF4 instead. I think the O'connor is a great personal FF, not so much for a rental kit. And again, it all depends on your market: I mostly rent to high end commercials and tv series .
 
Right you are Fred. Thanks for saving me the time on the Denz.
Yes, I love the dogbone trick with the Willytec (now I know what it is called :thumbup:), howver, since I already have an LFF-1, I think I really need to find a studio setup with a dumb side as well. Seems like it will be an FF4 unless NAB reveals something more interesting. Bloody hard to find at a decent price though.
 
I guess I'd have no choice but to say that they're all good. One of the ones mentioned so far, I didn't work on, but I'll give it the benefit of the doubt and say it'll be good too, in the right hands.

Of the ones I did work on, every one was built to do something the others didn't do. Sometimes that something isn't relevant anymore. Sometimes it stops being relevant for awhile, then becomes relevant again. You never know.

Few (if any) good designs start around the notion of "kicking butt." A good design starts around aspiring to deal with a situation in a better way than dealt with yet, then gets refined around finding the best compromises for the little problems that get created while solving the big problem. If you're looking at something and have no clue as to why anyone would bother to build it... simple, because they were building it for someone who deals with situations you don't.

When you consider a piece of gear, compare it to others and look at the differences closely... so easy to do on the internet these days, datasheets, snapshots, it's all there. Be dispassionate and observant to all detail. Don't listen to hype and histrionics. Back when I was pulling focus, if you heard two ACs bickering about gear, you knew they were green. Professionals picked the right tool for the job and kept all tools in mind.

And what would I recommend? An OConnor, of course.
 
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