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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Another back focus question...

1:1 on the monitor should help but I think you will like the 1:1 on the camera better. Probably have to go through the menus at the back of the camera to find it if you don't have the Red 5.6" LCD.

It can be hard to find focus with a 14mm for sure. Open the iris all the way up. Is there a closer mark on it than 1 meter? If so, set your chart at that distance and try eye focusing with a seimens star at 1:1 on the Red.
 
Douglas Underdahl said:
1:1 on the monitor should help but I think you will like the 1:1 on the camera better. Probably have to go through the menus at the back of the camera to find it if you don't have the Red 5.6" LCD.

It can be hard to find focus with a 14mm for sure. Open the iris all the way up. Is there a closer mark on it than 1 meter? If so, set your chart at that distance and try eye focusing with a seimens star at 1:1 on the Red.
Click to expand...

Ok, Doug I got set up to do the flange focus adjustment and set the chart at 1 meter. The Samyang was in focus at 0.7. Before I adjusted though I wanted to check my 24mm 2.8 and 35mm 2.0. Both were sharp set at 1m. So that means my 24,35,50 and 200mm Vivitar are all pretty much spot on and only the Samyang 14mm is off. 1 lens. I'm beginning to think it's just this lens.

Also my older 24 and 35mm were really difficult to lock into place. Is there an adjustment I can make to the lenses so I don't have to torque so hard on the lock?

Upate: 85mm 2.0 sharp at 1m., my whole Nikon set is good. So, I think I'll just deal with the Samyang being the one bad lens for now and go out and shoot some tests.
 
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Abraham Lim said:
Ok, Doug I got set up to do the flange focus adjustment and set the chart at 1 meter. The Samyang was in focus at 0.7. Before I adjusted though I wanted to check my 24mm 2.8 and 35mm 2.0. Both were sharp set at 1m. So that means my 24,35,50 and 200mm Vivitar are all pretty much spot on and only the Samyang 14mm is off. 1 lens. I'm beginning to think it's just this lens.

Also my older 24 and 35mm were really difficult to lock into place. Is there an adjustment I can make to the lenses so I don't have to torque so hard on the lock?

Upate: 85mm 2.0 sharp at 1m., my whole Nikon set is good. So, I think I'll just deal with the Samyang being the one bad lens for now and go out and shoot some tests.
Click to expand...


I had a samyang 14mm f/2.8 canon mount in the time I did wildlife photography, the lens was very sharp at f/2.8, but focus marks weren´t in the correct place. when I tryed to focus at 1 m, I had to put the scale betwin minimum focus distance and 1 m, but the lens didn't loss the ability to focus infinit...
 
Sounds like you found the lens that was off, focus mark wise. I would just put new marks with tape on that lens if you can.

Older Nikons have less space between the flange and the lens tabs, so the mount will be tighter. When you come up for air, send me the mount and I will relieve the leading edges of the locking ring.
 
Steve Sherrick said:
Stian, I may not be correct about this, so take it with a grain of salt. I think still lenses are made to focus past infinity because of thermal expansion. Someone with more knowledge about this may be able to jump in.
Click to expand...

Yes, Steve, that is correct. For that reason and to keep from ramming stepper motors into hard stops.
 
Will send you a relieved mount. You don't have to lock the lever very far to get it to be secure, so don't force it. No harm either way.
 
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