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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

IS THIS A BLACK SHADING ISSUE? LINES IN FOOTAGE

Matt White

Matt White

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Hey crew,

We have been seeing more and more of these vertical lines in our footage as of late, in any resolution 5k to 2k. Always hit or miss. Some shots have it, some don't. Is this a black shading issue?
 

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Matt,
yes is strange this vertical line...
has done with any firmware?
 
Just the last build release. It started happening out of the blue. Really frustrating
 
build beta 4?
reset to default camera and reload firmware.
try.
 
its not the latest beta release, the last build release before that. We did reset to default settings and no success
 
luigivaltulini said:
try my blackshade... only for test
http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?91835-Share-a-Blackshade-for-RED-EPIC
Click to expand...


Luigi, this will not work. Black shades are sensor specific, just like it was said in the other thread. Stop sharing this.


And Matt, that looks like a bad black shade. I've had that issue before, a black shade should fix it.

It looks like you're a tad underexposed. You're shooting 300fps. Black shade to the settings on the camera. In this case you were at 300fps and 155º shutter. When you do that you will yield better results, even at 2K

How often are you changing your camera settings?
 
Justin Kirchhoff said:
Luigi, this will not work. Black shades are sensor specific, just like it was said in the other thread. Stop sharing this.
Click to expand...

Justin,
I understand that each sensor has its own specific, and it 'wrong exchange of blacks, but I used to work on 3 red epic at 120fps and the result is' perfect, I'll be' lucky.:001_unsure:

Justin, however, you can try to do a test. Take a user black shade, then put a 25 timebase your Red Epic and framerate at 120fps 5kws put the cap on the lens and bring it to 12800 iso there is some horizontal line on the right?
let me know I'm curious.

Luigi
 
Of course there will be lines at those settings, however an Epic user who tends to change camera settings quite frequently and at those outrageous values needs to do a black shade. It's the intelligent thing to do, and it will most likely fix the problem.

If you change the camera settings the opposite way, and put the Epic in Timelapse mode, have the exposure at 1/1/16th, there will be lines...but doing a black shade at those settings and exposure should cure 99% of whatever lines the user will be seeing.

Black shading is the life blood of any RED camera. If done frequently when the user changes camera settings drastically, the user will yield positive results.
 
luigivaltulini said:
Justin, however, you can try to do a test. Take a user black shade, then put a 25 timebase your Red Epic and framerate at 120fps 5kws put the cap on the lens and bring it to 12800 iso there is some horizontal line on the right?
let me know I'm curious.

Luigi
Click to expand...


Of course there will be lines at those settings, however an Epic user who tends to change camera settings quite frequently and at those outrageous values needs to do a black shade. It's the intelligent thing to do, and it will most likely fix the problem.

If you change the camera settings the opposite way, and put the Epic in Timelapse mode, have the exposure at 1/1/16th, there will be lines...but doing a black shade at those settings and exposure should cure 99% of whatever lines the user will be seeing.

Black shading is the life blood of any RED camera. If done frequently when the user changes camera settings drastically, the user will yield positive results.
 
Justin Kirchhoff said:
Of course there will be lines at those settings, however an Epic user who tends to change camera settings quite frequently and at those outrageous values needs to do a black shade. It's the intelligent thing to do, and it will most likely fix the problem.

If you change the camera settings the opposite way, and put the Epic in Timelapse mode, have the exposure at 1/1/16th, there will be lines...but doing a black shade at those settings and exposure should cure 99% of whatever lines the user will be seeing.

Black shading is the life blood of any RED camera. If done frequently when the user changes camera settings drastically, the user will yield positive results.
Click to expand...

You are right Justin, the black and 'the life blood of RED.
The strange thing 'after many blackshade always at a constant temperature are able to make a perfect black unlined, so I could use this on the other two Red Epic. Otherwise I would have lost a lot of time with the other Red.
Again, and 'wrong share Black, but it was just to try it with others.
If you get the chance Justin, try it and tell me if the line disappears.

Luigi
 
Justin:sorry if i add to the confusion, I'm still trying to understand this whole topic as well, from my understanding so far, black shading settings wont need to be changed when going upwards, but become void when changing downwards. lets say if moving from 25fps to 300 there is no need to re-blackshade if the camera was calibrated for 25fps but going from 120fps to say 24 one should recalibrate....I read this somewhere in another thread on the issue. please correct me if I'm wrong.

so why not calibrate your camera at 1fps, 1 second exposure time and you should be sweet and good to go for most settings you might change on a shoot ?
 
Dominik Muench said:
Justin:sorry if i add to the confusion, I'm still trying to understand this whole topic as well, from my understanding so far, black shading settings wont need to be changed when going upwards, but become void when changing downwards. lets say if moving from 25fps to 300 there is no need to re-blackshade if the camera was calibrated for 25fps but going from 120fps to say 24 one should recalibrate....I read this somewhere in another thread on the issue. please correct me if I'm wrong.

so why not calibrate your camera at 1fps, 1 second exposure time and you should be sweet and good to go for most settings you might change on a shoot ?
Click to expand...


The black shading remaps the exposure of black levels at the cameras current settings, and from my experience and from digging through black shade posts from months ago, is that anything below 1/24th shutter speed should be recalibrated, and anything above that should be recalibrated.

Let's put this out there right now, black shading should be common practice for any change in environment (hot or cold) and settings that drastically change the framerate or exposure of the camera.

I'm not saying black shade before every change in a set up. For example, if I was to shoot a time-lapse with a long exposure and my shutter speed is 360º, then I'll do a black shade to compensate. When I want to change over to shoot 24fps at 180º shutter in the same environmental conditions, then I can go to the default black shade factory settings to compensate. I would only re-blackshade if I went from a hot environment to cold environment, vice versa, or if I decided to go from a timelapse situation to a HFR situation.

I've been using this practice ever since I received my R1 #813 5 years ago, and currently do it with my EPIC and it's always yielded excellent results.
 
Patrick Tresch said:
No way CA. This is more than that.

Pat
Click to expand...

It looks exactly like CA to me. If you are showing an example of something else, I guess I don't understand what you mean.

pp011177crp.jpg
 
Matt White said:
its not the latest beta release, the last build release before that. We did reset to default settings and no success
Click to expand...

Matt --

It's possible the camera was reset to it's factory calibration (will occur after upgrading or after resetting to defaults). You can check in the calibration dialog to see which calibration is being used: Factory indicates the default calibration shipped with the camera and User HS indicates a user black shade. You can switch between both while the camera is running to see if there is a difference between the two.

Also, it won't hurt to re-run a black shade on the camera. This will ensure you have a recent user calibration and will default the camera to the User HS calibration.
 
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