Auto-Irising During Shots?

[Jason Honeycutt]

I don't know how to explain this other than "auto-irising"... it's brutal. A couple times when I'm shooting, the Scarlet all of sudden starts making sounds then goes dark, light, and so on until it find a new ISO or something... or new brightness (I can't confirm if the ISO changes). If there's a preset button I accidentally hit, I can't recreate it. Maybe it's adjusting the F/stop on the lens as it seems locked into the footage...?

Has anyone else dealt with this? Beyond setting ISO, shutter speed, F/stop... I'm new to the Scarlet/Epic set-ups. If it helps, I have a side handle... not sure if one of its settings is causing this... I'm just at a loss and I don't want to take another gig until I figure this out.

Thanks!

 

[Maik Müller]

Doesn't sound normal, there is no automatic change of iris or iso at all, especially not during shooting. Two things come in mind, you hit the "zoom-rocker", which is set to control the iris, or you hit the autofocus while you're not shooting, because then (and only then) the brightness changes for a moment. AF while shooting doesn't do that.

If thats all not the case you might check your lens and or lens-mount, maybe something isn't sitting perfect?

 

[Karl Krings]

1.Check that your EF lense do not change aperture. Sometimes on display is wide open but inside its closed. I had this issue with one of the earlier os version. 2. It can also be RAW Mode you are looking at. Check both....Good luck

 

[stu aull]

One of the first things I had to do was DE-activate a lot of the buttons on the Side Handle, as I was constantly activating one or more just handling the camera. As a then-new owner it drove me NUTS. Its really worth sitting down with the camera on on your desk and going thru the Ops manual on your PC and identifying what all the buttons do by DEFAULT and then decide which you want either
-active
-disabled
-reassigned

For example, I DE-activated the A-B-C (kept D, for ejecting the SSD) buttons. I got sick of popping into viewing modes in the middle of shooting..
I RE-assigned some:
-the Image-Magnification feature is now on one of the front SSD buttons where I can quickly and easily activate as needed, yet is out of the way of normal Side Handle operations.

In reference to Iris control - one od the handiest suggestions here on RU is to assign the UPPER Side Handle Wheel (ie the top one) to iris control.
Of course most everything I am mentioning here should be assigned to a specific, re-assignable PRESET that you can save and reload after upgrades (or crashes).

RED gave us a LOT of options to custom-configure the camera - so do yourself a favor and get a handle on what-does-what and tweak to your liking. You can always add/modify as you get more comfy with it.

Stu Aull
SX 199
Alaska

 

[Jason Honeycutt]

Doesn't sound normal, there is no automatic change of iris or iso at all, especially not during shooting. Two things come in mind, you hit the "zoom-rocker", which is set to control the iris, or you hit the autofocus while you're not shooting, because then (and only then) the brightness changes for a moment. AF while shooting doesn't do that.

If thats all not the case you might check your lens and or lens-mount, maybe something isn't sitting perfect?

What I'm gonna have to do is go back and check the RAW files of it... but like you were saying, it's not like the Metadata is going to cycle through ISOs from 0 to 2000 (or whatever), plus the sound of the lens adjusting makes me thing something is triggering the lens to adjust. If it's baked into the RAW, then obviously the source is the lens. I'll check the zoom-rocker (still learning the various presets) but it definitely did a full cycle of completely shut to wide open, then closes back up again, where my hands were off and it was still doing it. It's only happened with my Tokina AT-X Pro, I'm just going to keep trying to recreate it. I'll lock it in tighter and make sure it's on Manual (which I think it was), with the clutch... I'm hoping that'll fix it because it's a beautiful lens. My 'dumb' lenses can't self adjust, obviously, I just have to figure out what's triggering it.

 

[Jason Honeycutt]

One of the first things I had to do was DE-activate a lot of the buttons on the Side Handle, as I was constantly activating one or more just handling the camera. As a then-new owner it drove me NUTS. Its really worth sitting down with the camera on on your desk and going thru the Ops manual on your PC and identifying what all the buttons do by DEFAULT and then decide which you want either
-active
-disabled
-reassigned

For example, I DE-activated the A-B-C (kept D, for ejecting the SSD) buttons. I got sick of popping into viewing modes in the middle of shooting..
I RE-assigned some:
-the Image-Magnification feature is now on one of the front SSD buttons where I can quickly and easily activate as needed, yet is out of the way of normal Side Handle operations.

In reference to Iris control - one od the handiest suggestions here on RU is to assign the UPPER Side Handle Wheel (ie the top one) to iris control.
Of course most everything I am mentioning here should be assigned to a specific, re-assignable PRESET that you can save and reload after upgrades (or crashes).

RED gave us a LOT of options to custom-configure the camera - so do yourself a favor and get a handle on what-does-what and tweak to your liking. You can always add/modify as you get more comfy with it.

Stu Aull
SX 199
Alaska

Awesome, great advice... yeah, I hate popping in and out of modes or accidentally ejecting the Redmag between shots if I slip. I do like the WB function, but that's about it.

 

[Zac C]

Also, you lens might not be calibrated to the camera. RED is working it's way through every lens they can.

 

[Jason Honeycutt]

Also, you lens might not be calibrated to the camera. RED is working it's way through every lens they can.

Oh yeah...? See, I'm such a noob sometimes... I didn't know it would even be an issue, just assumed any Nikon lens would be good to go. It's the Tokina AT-X 270 Pro II (the Angeniuex build), I haven't had any issues with my Nikon AI-S primes but I haven't used them like this one, other than one camera test. So, you think it might be a firmware thing? I bought my Scarlet slightly used (80 hours) so I still have to save up a little and do the transfer 'colonoscopy' Maybe the Nikons are still being updated with the new firmware...?

And thanks again guys... I know this stuff is rookie'ish but I'm still getting up to speed on the Scarlet... but in the meantime, I'm a little embarrassed to ask this stuff out loud.