D-tap, XLR, and other (extension) power cable options for Epic-Scarlet?

[Elizabeth Lowrey]

I am going to be using my Epic on a Kessler Crane and would like very much to minimize the weight out on the head while also trying to minimize the amount of purely "dead" weight I have to carry in my kit for counterbalance (I'm essentially a one-person operation, so portability is very important). I have two REDVolts and am likely to buy a couple more soon, but they don't last very long, and I'd burn through two of them in no time trying to get a shot just right on a crane.

So one thing that seems to make imminent sense is to mount the heavy V-mount batteries I also carry in my kit as counterbalance and not even use REDvolts at all. I have the Switronix V-mount plate sold by Wood__ Cam___ with 12" or so captive cable terminating in a 1B-6-pin female lemo that plugs into the back of the camera for normal tripod use. This plate has two integrated D-taps, one labeled "MAX 50W" (which I assume will not supply the requisite power for Epic) and the other not labeled at all. To me the simplest and cheapest way to get power from this plate mounted at the back of the crane to the camera would be to buy this $163 (plus) D-tap to 1B-6pin female lemo cable from Markertek and plug it into the (unlabeled) D-tap port on the Switronix plate.

But I'm a little frightened by what I saw in this thread, particularly the comments by Greg M. Is the ONLY issue with using D-tap to power the camera the issue of reversing the plug in the socket? Because the sockets on the Switronix plate are very tight, and I fail to see how anyone taking reasonable care could possibly invert and force a D-tap plug in the wrong way. Aside from the rounded corners on one side and the square corners on the other, there is a notched key on the side with the square corners. I can't imagine being negligent enough to force a connector on the wrong way with those deterrents. But maybe my relative inexperience with the kinds of pressures you have to confront in difficult production environments is showing and perhaps making this mistake is easier than I think.

If the prudent among you absolutely counsel against using this D-tap solution, it would seem the next best but probably much more expensive option is a long power extension cable with a 1B-6-pin female lemo to plug into the camera and a 1B-6-pin male lemo to mate with the captive lemo cable/plug on the Switronix plate. Problem is, I can't find that cable anywhere online. I am considering calling Markertek tomorrow to see if they will custom make one and how much it will cost.

Anyone know where I can find a 1B-6-pin male to 1B-6-pin female (long) cable? Any other ideas on how to properly balance economics and readily available cabling solutions to accomplish what I'm trying to do here?

 

[Greg M]

D-Tap can be used safely if you are aware of the risk.
I wouldnt supply it in a rental kit though.

 

[Elizabeth Lowrey]

Hi Greg, thanks for replying. I was hoping you'd find this thread!

So if I only use the cable personally, and if I'm a meticulous person who not only visually checks polarity alignment but routinely verifies the tightness of the D-tap socket and would NEVER force a connector in when there's significant resistance, you see no problem with using it? Your comments were the only reason I hadn't immediately assumed D-tap was the way to go, so if the conditions I set forth satisfy your concerns, that makes me feel a lot better about using it.

 

[Dave Blackham]

Why not use an XLR to Lemo Power cable.

http://www.red.com/store/products/4-pin-xlr-to-6-pin-power-cable

You can always with in reason extend the cable with XLR M to XLR 4 F cables which is inexpensive. There are also inexpensive V loc to XLR 4 battery plates available and are easy to build your self. Id happily solder XLR 4 cables but the Epic Lemo is more complex if your not skilled at this work.

http://www.adorama.com/VDVZS7100S.html

or better

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/242075-REG/IDX_C_EB_XLR_C_EBXLR_V_Mount_Plate_with.html

Long DC cables also need thick internal wires to avoid voltage drop.

 

[Joe Minuni]

I am using a remote motorized head on a kessler jib and also have my scarlet power coming from the rear of the jib via battery, to keep weight down , exactly as you are looking to do.

I grabbed the RED XLR to Lemo and am using a IDX plate with a XLR power out. We have previously successfully used a d-tap to XLR > XLR to Lemo > to the scarlet with no issues (besides the dtap connection not being a secure locking type). I don't see how you could reverse polarity on the dtap unless you used brute force. The notch on male and female dtap protects against this... it really boggles my mind if someone got this to be inserted upside down.

It is nice having battery on the rear of the jib, we can power the camera and monitor from one location

 

[Greg M]

Hi Greg, thanks for replying. I was hoping you'd find this thread!

So if I only use the cable personally, and if I'm a meticulous person who not only visually checks polarity alignment but routinely verifies the tightness of the D-tap socket and would NEVER force a connector in when there's significant resistance, you see no problem with using it? Your comments were the only reason I hadn't immediately assumed D-tap was the way to go, so if the conditions I set forth satisfy your concerns, that makes me feel a lot better about using it.

Correct. But as others have suggested 4-pin is the standard 12v connector for a reason. You cant fuck it up.
If your cautious, D-tap can be safe but not ideal.

We never use d-tap to power cameras, we use 4 pin XLR when not using onboard batteries.