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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Epic X mounting options

R

Rob Castiglione

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Sorry if I have missed this but could someone kindly post a picture of the bottom of the Epic X so that we can see how it is going to mount on to a standard Arri bridgeplate?
 
1292726721.jpg


It requires an adaptor to attach to a standard Arri Bridgplate.
 
It needs a simple riser to work with a bridgeplate. The question is, are they going to make one to work with the Red spec plates, and one to mount on the arri plates of which there are thousands available...........gotta go buy arri plates on ebay.

Nick
 
Love the 1/4" in case you need to really run and gun!

Dragging the OConnor to places it's not needed gets tiring.
 
Hi Jim. Yes, I love the O'Connor but suddenly it is beginning to feel quite weighty. I am deeply resisting buying any new gear until I actually have the Epic X in my hands.
 
KETCH ROSSI said:
The Riser plate is shown on the pic below, Sold form Red, even so ET makes one, II must say that the one form RED is much better ;)

Red_Shoulder_Rig.jpg
Click to expand...

Can this shoulder rig be ordered yet? I'd love to purchase this now for a project I'll shoot on a 7d... Unless I can get an Epic-S sooner than I realize. :)
-Ryan
 
Rob Castiglione said:
So is the Red Riser the riser plate that attaches to a standard arri bridge plate?
Click to expand...

The riser pictured above, is made specifically to lock on to the Red Pro Quick Release system pictured above as well,
but RED does make also an other Riser, that is made to fit on to the Bottom of Epic/Scarlett, and then you can screw
in the Arri Bridge plate on.
 
Please, please, please, please, please.

I cannot count how many times I have had to hold a RED ONE up in the air while an assistant sets the bridge plate straight on a long lens (i.e. zoom).

If you are going to steal one trick from ARRI it should be this: Locating pins with very low tolerances in the camera body and in any intermediate parts down to the bridge plate.

It's unacceptable that there can be 5° or more of swing in the rods horizontally when trying to line up matteboxes.

So please, Red. Put a locating pin (or two) in the final tooling. Or make the tiedown screws fit the mating parts much, much better.
 
Cail Young said:
Please, please, please, please, please.

I cannot count how many times I have had to hold a RED ONE up in the air while an assistant sets the bridge plate straight on a long lens (i.e. zoom).

If you are going to steal one trick from ARRI it should be this: Locating pins with very low tolerances in the camera body and in any intermediate parts down to the bridge plate.

It's unacceptable that there can be 5° or more of swing in the rods horizontally when trying to line up matteboxes.

So please, Red. Put a locating pin (or two) in the final tooling. Or make the tiedown screws fit the mating parts much, much better.
Click to expand...

I am working on this problem right now. Not only do I want the support for the 18-85 to be central but - much more important - I use bellows for macro work and the front end with the lens is mounted on 19mm rods on the universal mount, so the rods - and the baseplate have to be absolutely true to the sensor axis. The original Red One baseplate, being bolted to the sides is quite good for that, but who designed that with the dovetail being so close to, but half a mm away from the Arri standard dovetail. Doh!

So as you suggest there needs to be dowels to properly register the camera to the plate. The Red One has two 3/8" holes 50mm apart, plus two 1/4" holes a further 10mm away. The Epic has two 3/8" holes 25mm apart and one 1/4" hole 10mm in front of those. It's just as well one needs an intermediate riser because you would be hard pushed to dowel both cameras to one plate.

Retro fitting these dowels is tricky so for the Red One the simplest way is to adjust the alignment of the baseplate to perfection, then drill two holes through the baseplate AND into the Red One body. CHILDREN DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME. This is the job for a precision machine shop. Fortunately, as a watchmaker I do have that. Even so, Brent does NOT advise drilling into the base of the Red One. Of Course. However, he does say that the average thickness of the base is 4.0mm-4.5mm so drilling 3.0mm should be safe and sufficient for a dowel.

A much safer, but more fiddly option is to use the two outer 1'4" threaded holes. Plug these with threaded rod and drill into these would be quite safe, but getting the right alignment to drill the baseplate requires very precise jig boring as you are doing it blind.

For the Epic, I'm not sure how thick the intermediate plate is, but unless Red provides dowel holes in the base of the camera (unlikely at this stage I guess) I will do the same thing and use the 1/4" and one 3/8" hole to screw in a plug and drill the inter plate likewise for dowels.

I've got the ET universal baseplate with 19mm rods so it shouls be straightforward to dowel that to the riser plate. All got to be very precisely machined though, if there is not going to any play in two sets of connections.

John
 
Please excuse my ignorance on this stuff but I have a question about the riser.

What will be the effect of the riser on accessories like a mattebox? The riser will change the height of the camera in relation to the bridgeplate which holds your rods. So will there be any difficulties aligning a matte box with lenses after using a riser? Or is that the point of the riser to make sure that those sorts of distances are all ok? I hope that I have explained this correctly.
 
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