Mike,
whatever but one or the goals is to get RED1MX/Epic/Scarlet image look as closer as possible to many of Kodak Color Negative Film and Print Film looks.
You're just not going to give up with this nonsense, but I am. Think whatever you want.
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Mike,
whatever but one or the goals is to get RED1MX/Epic/Scarlet image look as closer as possible to many of Kodak Color Negative Film and Print Film looks.
Film look is not so much about a grain
You're just not going to give up with this nonsense, but I am. Think whatever you want.
Film look is not so much about a grain and is more about the specific look that film has an ability to
reproduce artwork with the look and feel of an original with accurate color reproduction.
My point is that there will come a time when we associate the ultra clear look of digital with our favorite movies, and 35mm film will look dated (as in, originating at a specific time from the past).
I don't actually agree that film reproduces images more accurately than digital. In fact, I don't think our love for film has as much to do with accuracy as it does with familiarity.
Interesting post.This is true, but there are a couple of more issues in there...
Analogue media (like film for images and tape+ air in a recording situation) compresses the dynamic range a lot "on the fly", while digital mapping of level is fixed by nature.
This gives analogue media the ability to roll of peaks in the top, while still accentuating the lower signals bu nature, while in a digital world the low end suffers earlier on a SN problem in the low end, and peakes and spikes just overdrive/clip when you reach max level.
This is not very unlike how our eyes and ears work,so it is more within the same idiom, for lack of better words. Linearity is not how we see and hear.
In addition comes that we have more sensitivity (are more able to discern small nuances) in the lower/low intensity ranges than in the high, while in digital the precission is better at the top of the curves. Which is why we are so sensitive to noise/grain in the darks...
This doesn't mean that I by any means think digital is a bad idea or cannot give "as good" or "better" results than analogue. I am in fact a very digitally tilted person, but this is good to know.
The solution is to get digital formats with enough headroom in both ends for them not to break on spikes of high intensity or in areas with low intensity.
To achieve that, you need high bit depths... Or as RED has started to work out with the Epic/Scarlet: Multiple exposures/samples of the same frame
But, to take the "high bit depth" approach first.
The main advantage with this, is that you can throw away low-precission areas of the file, to get better precission in the lowlights.
Let's use our beloved 12 bit RED RAW as an example.
With each stop being available from the sensor being mapped to a new bit, that'd give us a theoretical 12 stops of dynamics.
The only issue is that the lowest 8 stops would lack a lot in precission (max out at 256 level pr channel) while the top 4 stops would have most of the precission (3840 levels per channel).
This is a bit unfair to the lowlights and skintones compared to the highlights and sky. This is also the background for the "expose to the right under low contrast" idiom. You "save" your image to a part of the file with higher precission...
There are many ways to solve this, which Graeme probably could write books about (and as likely allready has, in his notes), but the main thing is that "more bits" are good, because you can throw out more lower bits when one map the signal in the AD process (a sensor is NOT digital...) and still get better precission and map more dynamics into the file over all.
We like that.
And as long as the recording doesn'tclip/go black - it is quite rudimentary to re-map the recorded image into even an 8-bit 422 image for low-contrast displays like TV's or computerscreens. The difference between max and min light intensity on these screens are so narrow that it still looks "good"... as long it isn't broken in the first place...
Another approach which has been discussed a bit here, and I'd like to do some tests on the comming year, is to use analogue filtering more emulating "filmresponse" (in addition to the OLPF). I am not sure really how this will work, but it sounds reasonable that one could extend the DR a bit that way, as you can analoguly roll off the peaks a bit. But I have not tested it on the RED yet, and I do see some catches with this approach. It wouldn't be for all situations, but could - if it works - be a nice addition to the toolset of handling dynamics in an image...
Cheers!
G