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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

I S O settings on MX

P

Paul Harding

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Just had my Red One with mx. Any useful info on what Isa settings to use, day , night, low light etc?
Paul
 
Thanks for that I am starting to testing tomorrow and looking for all the advice I can get. Are you using 800 in al situations
Paul
 
800 gives you 1.4 stop highlight headroom. Good to have on a rainy or sunny day, especially if you reclaim it in post.

RedlogFilm does a good job at that at any iso (just play with it, it is harder to fool than anything we've had this far....)

So that was the first part of my stock answer. -:)
 
Thanks Gunleik good to know. Weather permitting I will give the MX some challenges tomorrow

Paul
 
Depending on the film I'm shooting I use 400 iso because it gives me the cleanest image possible.

But it's true that often in post I push those blacks a bit with a small curve wich tend to rise "potentially" the "iso effect" and pushes the gain with it.

Patrick
 
The ISO also works a bit different now. I dunno if that's an MX thing or a B30.5 thing with new RCX as I haven't run M footy through the same stress-tests I am currently doing with MX, but it is very good the way it now works.
 
Patrick Tresch said:
Depending on the film I'm shooting I use 400 iso because it gives me the cleanest image possible.

But it's true that often in post I push those blacks a bit with a small curve wich tend to rise "potentially" the "iso effect" and pushes the gain with it.

Patrick
Click to expand...

When you push do you mean crush?
Paul
 
I shoot at ISO 800~1280. The brighter the scene - the higher I will push the ISO. So bright outdoor scene in middle of the day would be 1280 ISO, late evening dawn (or low-light interiors) at 800... All for the same reason - protecting the highlights. What I do though is adjust the FLUT for the video monitoring to roughy match what I am seeing with my eyes. This tends to go well with the directors...

:devil: Peter
 
Peter Majtan said:
What I do though is adjust the FLUT for the video monitoring to roughy match what I am seeing with my eyes.
Click to expand...

Presumably though you can only use a small amount of FLUT control for fine tuning. Otherwise if for example you set ISO 800 and FLUT +1, the result is exactly the same as setting ISO 1600. Similarly using negative FLUT value will cancel out the highlight protection given by higher ISOs.
 
I haven't noticed any benefit from shooting at less than 800 asa and as this is what the chip is notionally rated at, I tend to ND and keep it at 800 asa. I frequently up the asa for music promo's shot in high contrast situations and shoot at 1200 asa frequently and up to 2000 asa for the odd shot.

Having said this we shot a commercial recently in very difficult circumstances where we rated at 1600 asa. The lighting was very soft and I did notice a bit of noise in the darker areas.
 
So the MX chip is rated at 800. did not know that vital piece of information. I have started with 320 when it came back from the upgrade.
Thanks
Paul
 
makes night work easier! Better under tungsten also!
 
(Note to self: Get out of here. Take a week in Barcelona or something... -:)

What ISO middle grey is correct at is one thing.

But you'll risk losing 1.4 stop in the highlights if you stick to 800 for post, that is...
Especially if you go for something like redgamma as your gamma.

Graeme is technically right. Redgamma is a full gamut gamma - as long as you stay in RAW.
But when you go to an RGB/YUV format, the "REC 709" complient side of his description is the most important, which means less precission and latitude.

redlogFilm does an incredible job at reclaiming those highlights. Even with redlogFilm - if you|re pushing the highlights boundaries through high exposure or off center WB, you need to go back to at least 320 to get them back.

(Geekleik is testing cams these days...)

Check with the linear-light preview to see what is actually in the top.

Thing is that redlogFilm looks at its "rightest" around 800, so my guess is that you would like to compensate with amild curve in the bottom, if you|re going for 320 or bellow to squeeze the least bit of highlight out of the top.

OK.

This is simply tested, though.
Fill'er up untill the highlights just break in RAW and look at it with different ISO's and gamma-curves. RedlogFilm can almost reclaim an image even if you push a 320 exposure to 6400....

But not totally. And that's my point...

AND if you go 1600 ISO with an FLUT of -1... You have just cancelled yourself back to 800.

makes not much sense to me...

One fun part of MX ISO, though - is that it seems not to be done with gain.
That syncs very well with the low noise in the MX image...

(Note 2 to self: Run into that cave. Now!)
 
Funny how the question means different things to different people. I think Paul wants to know the basics and go and test his camera.

Enjoy the possibilities of MX Paul! And Gunliek is there an explanation that doesn't sound like you recently spent far too long in the post suite and could do with a night out with real human company? : )
 
Have a good one Dude, I really wouldn't mind catching up full time with that explanation some time though.
 
All I can say is keep the info coming!
Been testing all day with different iso etc will try and get some grading done tomorrow (Saturday). Could really do with some hands on help though. Gunleik your not that far away!

Paul
 
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