Thread: The SDI issues

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  1. #131  
    Björn Benckert
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  2. #132  
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Hofmeyr View Post

    3. Must I follow this order of operation when changing a BP-9 on the back of the Komodo, when there is a second BP-9 powering the camera?
    BP Battery or Direct DC in, the KOMODO should be powered off when adjusting or removing the SDI.
    So when we change the battery, the SDI shouldn't be connected. And when we disconnect the SDI the Camera should be powered down. Now we have to switch off the Camera every time we change battery?? I'm sure that can't be right they wouldn't design a camera with hotswap feature if you cant use it, would they? . I also think RED should help us out here and explain again what exactly the correct sequence for connecting/ disconnecting cables/ powering on and off is and for wich scenarios a galvanic isolator is beneficial.

    Quote Originally Posted by Christoffer Glans View Post

    It's like... hey, we have some worries about the SDI integrity, could the 12G galvanic isolators prevent damage when procedures or changing batteries happens fast on location so as to not risk damage when unintentionally breaking procedures or just changing batteries in a normal fashion that doesn't take an impractical five minutes of cable workflow?
    According to this article, at least when using D-Tab connectors the routine should be maintained even when using an SDI Isolator.

    https://www.newsshooter.com/2020/02/...o-sdi-outputs/

    Here's the part (last sentence)

    "When connecting: FIRST connect power cables, THEN BNC.

    When disconnecting: FIRST disconnect the BNC, THEN the power. Also helpful is using shielded power cables and avoiding D-tap connectors.

    To further protect the SDI outputs, an SDI isolator can be used. Please note, that SDI isolators can reduce signal quality and/or maximum cable length.
    D-Tap (also called Power-Tap or P-Tap) connectors are made out of plastic and therefore cannot support a shield. Cables with D-Tap connectors should only be used when the above-mentioned cable connection sequence is followed.
    Last edited by Amarin Spörri; 04-24-2021 at 04:08 PM.
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  3. #133  
    Senior Member Christoffer Glans's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amarin Spörri View Post
    So when we change the battery, the SDI shouldn't be connected. And when we disconnect the SDI the Camera should be powered down. Now we have to switch off the Camera every time we change battery?? I'm sure that can't be right they wouldn't design a camera with hotswap feature if you cant use it, would they? . I also think RED should help us out here and explain again what exactly the correct sequence for connecting/ disconnecting cables/ powering on and off is and for wich scenarios a galvanic isolator is beneficial.



    According to this article, at least when using D-Tab connectors the routine should be maintained even when using an SDI Isolator.

    https://www.newsshooter.com/2020/02/...o-sdi-outputs/

    Here's the part (last sentence)

    "When connecting: FIRST connect power cables, THEN BNC.

    When disconnecting: FIRST disconnect the BNC, THEN the power. Also helpful is using shielded power cables and avoiding D-tap connectors.

    To further protect the SDI outputs, an SDI isolator can be used. Please note, that SDI isolators can reduce signal quality and/or maximum cable length.
    D-Tap (also called Power-Tap or P-Tap) connectors are made out of plastic and therefore cannot support a shield. Cables with D-Tap connectors should only be used when the above-mentioned cable connection sequence is followed.
    The issue isn't really using D-Taps, because you can use lemo's instead. I would argue that it's fine that we don't use D-taps at all for our monitor, that could be a limitation we can't get around. But power through lemo, or better, powering a monitor with its own batteries, should be totally safe with the isolator. We should be able to just have everything plugged in with that isolator, turning camera and monitors on and off however we want and changing batteries however we want. That is required in order to be able to go through a day of shooting without having creativity being blocked by time-consuming cable management.
    "Using any digital cinema camera today is like sending your 35mm rolls to a standard lab. -Using a Red is like owning a dark room."
    Red Weapon 6K #00600 Red Komodo #002397
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  4. #134  
    I noticed that the Cinegears Ghost-Eye wireless transmitters specify they provide +/- 8kv ESD protection on all input and output connections. If a Ghost-Eye (or similarly equipped transmitter) is the first unit in the output chain of a Komodo output will this not help mitigate the problem or does it only protect the transmitter?
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  5. #135  
    Senior Member Blair S. Paulsen's Avatar
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    Based solely on web research, the:
    https://tilta.com/shop/dual-canon-bp...or-red-komodo/
    looks like an excellent way to route all power through a single device. Compact, reasonable price, 2x D-tap and 2x 2 pin power outs - and it mounts directly into the dual BP-9 slots.

    Has anyone using this plate fried their SDI board? In theory, at the point of attaching a fresh V-mount battery, if the + pol mates first, a power blip could still fry the SDI board - unless there is something inside the plate that stops it. Does anyone know the skinny on this? Is it as simple as having a relay in the plate that doesn't feed power to anything until it sees both + and - are there?

    I suppose the brute force solution with the Tilta plate might be using batteries that can piggyback on each other (IDX, Core, etc), just don't let the inside one go dead and swap the outside one as needed - of course size and weight would be sub optimal.

    Cheers - #19
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  6. #136  
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    Blair

    I have this Tilta V-Lock plate and I really like it. I have done a slight modification to the D-Tap receptacles on the plate by taking a #30 drill and on the + female on both D-Tap connectors and drilled in about 1/8 inch. By doing so, the - pin on the connector must make contact first. I did the same on all of my V-Lock batteries + side with a #31 drill so they also must make make a connection with the - pin first. Your relay idea is very interesting, however.

    I still follow the connection sequence stated in the WARNING on page 141 in the Komodo operation manual and have placed warning lables on the Tilta V-Lock plate, batteries and on the AC adapter in conspicuous places with yellow tape.

    Murphy's Law is always lurking on the set and on location.
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  7. #137  
    Forgive me if this was already explained here, but why is this an issue for some camera models but not others?
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  8. #138  
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    Good question. Was this or is it currently a significant problem with DSMC 1 for instance which is limited to 3G HD-SDI?
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  9. #139  
    Senior Member Alex Lubensky's Avatar
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    It's all the cameras out there with SDI.
    I've seen fried SDI boards on Alexa Classic, Mini, LF etc just as often as on any other camera. BTW, the more cameras out there on rentals- the more fired SDI's you know.
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  10. #140  
    Senior Member Robert Hofmeyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John David Pope View Post
    Forgive me if this was already explained here, but why is this an issue for some camera models but not others?
    It seems to be an issue with all 12G SDI cameras. But most other cameras have multiple video outputs, so if you blow an SDI you can keep shooting. I do think there do seem to be a rather high number of failures on the Komodo - perhaps the board has less protection than on other cameras?
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