First Time Aerial Filming Tips

[Will Keir]

Still not exactly understanding what's going on. Why not go full open at F2.8 and even higher shutter?

[Matt Ryan]

Still not exactly understanding what's going on. Why not go full open at F2.8 and even higher shutter?

opening up means shallower depth of field which is not what you want when shooting aerials. You want everything in focus, not just the building in the foreground, then having to rack focus to infinity.

Aerial you usually want deep depth of field unless your focusing on a specific object. Therefore, you would want to close down a bit on the lens to get that deeper depth.

You also have to be careful when upping the shutter speed since you can start to create some bad staccato effect ala Saving Private Ryan which is not what you are trying to attempt again unless that is the look you are going for... Shoot at a higher frame rate (60fps is usually great) with slightly faster shutter speed (greater than 120 but not much more or you get the SPR look).

[paulherrin]

as far as stabilization goes, i'd shoot 4k @24 or 30fps with a target shutterspeed between 120-500 and target f-stop between 3.5-11. Use your lens stabilization, and use the gyro being offered if possible - I'm guessing it's a kensington. You'll probably still have to do some stabilization in post, but it should be minimal and I'd use AE's warp stabilizer. Make sure you're prepared to handheld (+ some extra pounds for the gyro) for more than enough time to operate comfortably. Safety first :)

[Will Keir]

I understand ya. The SPR look is 45 degree shutter angle, lotta ways to get that combo. It looks bad with aerials is interesting... I love that look not sure if you can take out or add that look in post.

opening up means shallower depth of field which is not what you want when shooting aerials. You want everything in focus, not just the building in the foreground, then having to rack focus to infinity.

Aerial you usually want deep depth of field unless your focusing on a specific object. Therefore, you would want to close down a bit on the lens to get that deeper depth.

You also have to be careful when upping the shutter speed since you can start to create some bad staccato effect ala Saving Private Ryan which is not what you are trying to attempt again unless that is the look you are going for... Shoot at a higher frame rate (60fps is usually great) with slightly faster shutter speed (greater than 120 but not much more or you get the SPR look).

[Paul Russell]

You don't have to storm the bunkers on a golf course :-)

[Matt Ryan]

I understand ya. The SPR look is 45 degree shutter angle, lotta ways to get that combo. It looks bad with aerials is interesting... I love that look not sure if you can take out or add that look in post.

It can look great for aerials if that is the look of the rest of your piece. If it's just basic stock aerial than SPR look is definitely not the right choice.

[Mike Isler]

Michael (hey there!) - what sort of gyro does the pilot have access to? Just a single Kenyon KS-4/KS-6, or something more substantial like a Tyler MiniGyro or Aerial Exposures ATM/LSG? Keep in mind, with single engine helicopters (piston especially), you've got a choice between low, and slow...but not both. That can be an issue on the R44, as it is to be not flown out of trim (crabbed flight), at any substantial speed, as per Robinson's own directive ( http://www.robinsonheli.com/srvclib/..._trim_0607.pdf ) "TO PREVENT A CATASTROPHIC TAIL ROTOR BLADE FAILURE,
AVOID FLYING OUT OF TRIM."

I'd imagine that you're aiming to shoot straight forward. Keep in mind that your forward visibility may be limited because of the lack of out-of-trim capability, since the pilot likely won't want to plod along at 100' at 20kts, squarely below the H/V curve.

Can you get an MD500 or JetRanger for this job?

[Michael Notar]

I will be playing with gyro hopefully later this week, i think it is 2 axis. ya might be able to get away with the R44 but wont be suprised if i need a bigger turbine, tho more expensive can prob get it done in less tries and time. i am going to look at the R44 later this week and look at shooting looking forward as much as possible, like 30-45 degrees. waiting to hear back for a quote on a bigger ones (eurocopter AS 350 BA and B2)

[Mike Isler]

The AStars are super capable machines, but might be overkill for your needs. Around here they're around $1800/hr, but I've seen them as low as $1450/hr in other places. I'd think you could get away with a JetRanger (206B) if there are any by you for a reasonable price, perhaps around $1,000. The perfect machine would probably be an MD500/530... or the MD520N (NOTAR Model!) but you don't find those everywhere. They'd be the perfect size though for golf course filming.

My opinion is that an AStar will be more stable than an R44, and also the flat floor in the back and abundance of room can be helpful. Once you're spoiled on turbine machines, it's hard to go back. I'm probably guilty of that.

[Michael Dalton]

I was shooting last week at Niagara falls and shot a higher frame rate, and got great results. I did not know to shoot at a much higher shutter speed though, but will know for next time. I think I had it around 180, and a higher f-stop around 12. I shot between 72 and 90fps. You burn cards quickly and finished a 256gb card in a about 1hr at 10;1. I used a 16-35 f2.8 , and of couple of times dropped to punch in to 3k to see how it worked. 5k and wider is definitely better. You should be able to get low, unlike us.

I used a hand held rig, but only resting the shoulder pad lowly and supporting it with my arms mostly was best (I did not have a gyro) Yes avoid rigged contact.