Click here to go to the first RED TEAM post in this thread.   Thread: Still Workflow Video

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  1. #51  
    Senior Member Will Keir's Avatar
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    We talkign 45 degree shutter here? That look is fantastic. Now did Saving Private Ryan use this shutter speed through out the entirety of the film? Some of those scenes look pretty standard shutter speed. I'd love to shoot a whole feature with 45 degrees it but low light situations I have to go back to 180 degrees.
    Will Keir
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  2. #52  
    Senior Member Will Keir's Avatar
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    Strobo effect? Are shutter angle are you referring to precisely. 360 degree like Apocolipto?

    Quote Originally Posted by Arturo Sánchez View Post
    Yes i know it but if you want to have useful footage you would have to set the shuter speed number like the frame rate or like the double if you don't want to create strobo effect.
    Example: If you shoot at 30fps and 120 shutter speed you would be able to catch stills from motion without motion blur yes,but the footage would not be usefull(strobo effect)
    Will Keir
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  3. #53  
    One way to get smooth motion and sharp stills is to use HDRx and pull stills from the X track.

    One issue with this method is that you have to choose whether to expose for stills or motion. Perhaps Red can enable an alternative Stills + Motion mode: choose your stills shutter speed (for example 1/200) and your motion shutter speed (say 1/50 at 25fps). Camera shoots enough frames at the stills shutter speed (at 360 degrees) to make up the motion frame. In this example the sensor would record 4 frames at 1/200, take a break for 1/50th of a second then record 4 more frames etc. In post, the 4 "still" frames would be combined as a single "motion" frame. For higher shutter speed stills, you would need to add more frames. If media speed is the limiting factor and Epic is able to do the processing realtime, maybe the one "still" frame can be recorded alongside a merged "motion" frame composed from a set of still frames and the extra frames can then be discarded.

    This could also be a way of adding a kind of digital ND filter - split each frame into sections for faster shutter speed, then re-combine them for desired motion blur.

    I'm not sure if this would work at all. Perhaps the reset time of the sensor makes combined frames unusable. Perhaps there's something else I'm missing. There was a thread on this kind of idea a while back but I can't find it.

    Any thoughts?
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  4. #54  
    Senior Member Will Keir's Avatar
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    why not just skip this HDR and shoot at a high shutter in the first place?
    Will Keir
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  5. #55  
    You could, but I think most people want slower shutter speeds for motion and faster for stills.
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  6. #56  
    Junior Member Larry W Ross's Avatar
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    First time to post.
    I am a photographer located in Austin Texas, my focus is on shooting teens, people with pets and men and women on their motorcycles.
    My question is, when you shoot red video you are actually pulling one frame out for your still photo. Do you have motion blur when the subject is moving fast?
    The reason I'm asking is, it appears easier just to have a subject run through several poses and then pull out the best photos from the video file.
    Has anyone actually done this and what did you think of the image quality?.

    Thank you

    Larry Ross
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  7. #57  
    Senior Member Brad Allen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry W Ross View Post
    Do you have motion blur when the subject is moving fast?
    Hi Larry - you would have motion blur if you shot at 1/48shutter. However, you're not limited to shooting at 1/48 shutter in video land. You would just shutter up until motion blur was at an acceptable level (just as you would for stills).

    Also keep in mind that if you are shooting at higher frame rates, motion blur is going to become less of a problem. For example, if you were to shoot 5k @ 120fps, even if your shutter was open - that will produce the same motion blur as a shutter speed of 1/120.

    Much of the discussion here is focusing on how to use Epic footage for natural looking stills and motion. On the stills side, you usually want to eliminate motion blur by using a high shutter speed, whereas on the motion side of things you want to maintain a slower shutter speed to maintain natural looking motion blur. Being that you are just looking at using the footage for stills though - you shouldn't face this problem :)
    Brad Allen

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  8. #58  
    Senior Member PC Greene's Avatar
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    Is there really no practical way to shoot good looking 4k 24 fps video & still pull sharp stills on Scarllet? Has anyone tried a faster than 48 shutter but applied motion blur in post? Any other methods other than lose resolution with HDR or with a higher frame rate?

    Thanks!
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  9. #59  
    Senior Member Imran Farouk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PC Greene View Post
    Is there really no practical way to shoot good looking 4k 24 fps video & still pull sharp stills on Scarllet? Has anyone tried a faster than 48 shutter but applied motion blur in post? Any other methods other than lose resolution with HDR or with a higher frame rate?

    Thanks!
    There was something about this a while back about shooting a higher shutter speed throughout and then just doing whatever in post to bring it back to look like its a 48 shutter - apparently it won't A. Look good and B. its a massive pain which brings back point A in the end

    Although I guess if you have the expertise and know how you could technically do anything right? Time and budget willing

    I'm curious about this HDRX thing though, since the X track is for stills pulling, would you expose correctly for X or...?

    This is assuming you want both video and stills at the same time


    Side note: At higher frame rates you can't drop the compression can you? Though with stills I'd guess shooting even 3:1 just to push that tiny (invisible?) quality out wouldn't be a bad idea - at 6:1 on the Scarlet I'm pretty pleased but I can imagine that 3:1 maybe just that tad bit extra better
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  10. #60  
    My thought would be to enable HDRX at 2 Stops. Plan to expose the motion track at 1/48th, and plan to expose the X Track at 1/192. Set your meter to 1/96th which places the exposure in the middle of range.

    In RCX Pro, you would need to lift your exposure 1 stop for motion, and pull down your exposure 1 stop for stills - easily saved as a look for each, not a huge pain in the ass. Just realize when you are on set you have one stop less latitude for shadows and highlights, and light appropriately. If you can't pull a sharp frame at 1/192 of a second maybe its time for a tripod or monopod.

    My $0.02 ... works for me.

    Anybody have a better way?
    Michael Hardwick
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